20 Most Recent 1985 Nissan Pickup - Page 5 Questions & Answers

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Inside your carburator is a mini gas tank (float bowl) that keeps a specific amount of gas in reserve to accommodate changes. It isn't getting enough gas. The most likely culprit would be the fuel filter, so get it changed first. If that doesn't make the problem go away then the fuel pump is likely getting weak and not pushing enough gas into the carb. You can get it tested before you change it to make sure. If it tests good or you change it and still have the problem you will have to get the carburator taken off and rebuilt. Over time there will be a certain amount of crud acumulate in the float bowl that is interfering with gas delivery or it's also possible the float has become "waterlogged" and is not keeping gas at the proper level. Rebuilding carburators is not a job for rookies. It may cost more up front to have it done by a shop, but it will save you a lot of grief in the end.Hope this helps.

Normally these are pressed in and how that is done depends on whether we are talking a front of rear wheel. Normally if it is a front I pull the front disk and put a lug nut on the stud to be replaced, you want to put it on far enough to make it flush with teh bolt just as it starts to come through the lug nut. This is to keep it from mushrooming and giving you problems going through the disc. Use a 2.5 lb hammer or mini-sledge and after laying the disc on a couple of supporting 2x4 pieces strike the lug to be removed solidly to push it through the back side. This assumes the replacement you purchases has horizontal threads that lock it in place once pressed in to keep it from spinning. Most due as these are not welded in place and are replaceable. If these are the rear and are not part of the drum itself you have a choice. I recommend you follow the same procedure as the front I explained except you do this with it mounted since removing that part would require opening the rear differential and that is a pain. It can be done mounted, just make sure you have the lug to be removed lined up so it isn't blocked by something else. Putting the new lug in place is simple enough for both, insert the end through the hole and tap it in place.

Depending on if its a rear axel or a front rotor how you're going to do it is different. The method is still the same though.

The studs just have a serrated edge right under the head that holds them in place. They just need to be smacked out with a sledge hammer and the new stud came be pulled back in with a good lug nut and some washers that the studs will fit through without binding.

For instance,
A front rotor would need to be pulled off the vehicle. Looking at the back side you can see the head of the stud. Place the rotor on a firm surface and hit the stud from the side that is broken to drive it out through the back side.
Put the new stud in from the back side. Try to turn it to where it feels like the grooves (serated area)on the stud are locked into the grooves on the rotor. Then put some large washers over the threads (so if there is a shoulder on the stud that comes through the nut will not bottom on it). Put the nut on and tighten it do bring the stud through.