20 Most Recent 2003 Mazda Protege - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Bad O2 sensor

Do you check the air and gas filters?

Did they break the larger window? or the smaller one?The larger one is the easy one, remove the door panel, adjust the window mechanism until you can see the bolts on the bottom window track, undo these bolts and remove the old track, To fit the new window it's simply a matter of removing the side window guide rail and sliding the window in on an angle and wiggle it around until you get it inside the door, the seat it in the rail and replace the guide rail. Then bolt the window to the mechanism and re-assemble the door panel. If it's the smaller one you need to remove the larger window first then remove the frame between the smaller and larger piece of glass, You can then replace the glass.I would suggest calling around and you may get a good price for an expert to replace it as it is a pain to do.

the blower motor is located under the dashboard on the passenger side. you will need to remove the glove compartment to have easy access to it

Check the vehicles battery, then remove & TEST the Key FOB Battery

It stands for odometer

It is most likely your tps. Throttle position sensor.

Have a repair shop do that

Your easiest solution is probably going to be taking the door apart from the inside (just a few screws) and setting the window back on the track.

Tranny fluid is low,,,top it up and check fore leaks.,you may need a new axle seal on the tranny

There is always a better alternative than the dealership as far as costs. They want to put a new motor in a 2003 model? That is ridiculous to me- cost-prohibitive. Find a reputable independent shop. Look for references and customer satisfaction. A used, low mileage replacement engine is a better alternative, probably less than half the cost of a new engine. There may be an even better alternative, where you refurbish the top end of the engine-the cylinder head and valve train. This is dependent on that a wet-dry compression test supports rebuilding the top end. What I mean by this is a compression test of the cylinders reveals low compression in one or more cylinders, okay. Next, they would squirt some oil (about a tablespoon) in the low cylinders and check compression again. If compression doesn't change, it points to the valves and valve train (the valve guides which wear and could let oil into the cylinder). But if compression is higher in the wet test, then the piston rings are worn and losing compression, and oil gets past them-this would indicate the engine needs a complete rebuild or a replacement is called for. The reason for the wet test is that the oil will temporarily seal around the piston rings and improve compression if the rings are the problem. If the test shows the valves are the problem (and it is very possible on an engine with only 120K-your bottom end could be fine), then a top end rebuild of the engine is a much cheaper route than any other choices. You may not know this, but often a little oil burning in the cylinders at start-up is nothing more than the valve stem rubber seals are deteriorated-a real cheap fix. The dealership probably won't tell you this. However, with the loss of power, well, that points to something more severe than valve stem seals. So I would recommend the wet compression test, just to check if it is the top end or the bottom end. If it's the top end, you could have the cylinder head reconditioned and motor along for a few more years, trouble free. Similar to a compression test, a "leak down" test of the cylinders is actually a more accurate method of finding where compression is lost, and it's only a one step test. They hold compressed air in the cylinder and analyze where it escapes to pinpoint compression loss. Loss of compression translates into loss of power. Have either test done before you decide. Find a good mechanic and trust his advice. (Stay far away from dealers. Greed is their motivating factor.)