20 Most Recent 1997 Mazda Protege - Page 2 Questions & Answers

I had this same problem with my 97 protege. If the compression is low the shims for the valves can be changed without doing a complete valve job. If the compression is OK you might need to replace the distributor. Sometimes the seal behind it leaks and can cause the same problem

If you cannot find the freeze plug, it is probably because you have no idea what you are looking for. First off, there isn't just "A" freeze plug on an engine, there are numerous ones located all around the block and sometimes on the cylinder heads as well. Some are concealed between the engine rear and firewall, some may be concealed behind accessories such as the power steering pump, water pump, or alternator, and yet others may be hidden between the engine and transmission. A freeze plug is a recessed metal disc that is pressed into the casting to allow expansion of freezing water to pop it out, preventing the casting from cracking in the event of a freeze-up in extremely cold conditions. Unfortunately, these plugs corrode over time and may leak, requiring replacement. The rule of thumb is that if the offending plug is accessible, replace the bad one and move on. If it is not accessible and you need to remove the engine to provide service, then you are best suited to replace ALL freeze plugs since you already have access to them and if one has gone bad, the others may well soon follow. You wouldn't want to go to the expense of pulling the engine to replace a rear freeze plug, only to have to it again in the short-term future. Here is a shot of some freeze plug openings....one with a plug in it and two that are open. Additionally, removal of the freeze plugs also allow for more thorough cleaning of the engine block in the chemical tank during engine overhaul and rebuilding processes.

Visit the on-line store, know as reliable-store, they have the repair manuals. I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem Mazda Protege 1994 1998 Repair Service Manual PDF

there is another fuse at the back of the radio , will need to remove the radio to replace the fuse

Brake switch behind the brake pedal arm

Is the engine light on? Check the air inlet hose between the throttle body & MAF sensor for cracks or leaks. Try unplugging the MAF & see if there is any difference

First, is your clutch working? Check this by turning the engine off then put the car in first gear. Firmly apply the parking brake and fully depress the clutch pedal and hold it depressed as you crank the engine. If the engine starts and the car and revs normally then check the oil level in the trans. If the car tries to jump forward then adjust the clutch.

doesn't really matter. if it is bolted or welded as you can cut the old muffler out and get adaptor sleeves that go over the pipes and are clamped on with the muffler clamps.

We need to know what vehicle, model etc before we can answer this, sorry but this fault code might mean different things on different makes of vehicle.

have it checked for oil leaks, if there is no oil leaks or small leaks that won`t justify the amount of oil your losing then you engine is burning the oil. it could be stuck oil rings. there is chemicals that you can add to the oil to see if they will free up and stop burning oil. just because you don`t see a lot of smoke out the tailpipe doesn`t mean its not burning oil. another thing to check is the PCV valve as if it isn`t working properly can cause oil burning as well.

Yes, is has a Cat. As for the black smoke... It could be a number of things. Valve stem seals and piston rings are the first to come to mind. Something designed to stop oil from entering the combustion chambers, is not doing its job. Unless you are machanicly inclined, and pretty good at working on your own car... I'm afraid this is a job for a pro. Good luck to you. Bill

It is very likely the overheating has blown the cylinder head gasket and coolant is getting into cylinders or compression is leaking from cylinder to cylinder or both, you will need to remove the cylinder head and have it checked for warp-age and shaved flat by a machine shop if ness, and replace heat gasket.

Sounds like wear on the selector lever, is the oil up to the running mark?.

Check for a vacuum leak, PCV elbow perhaps. I have no specific advice for that model, but this would be a common issue of dying under load with a vacuum leak that otherwise allows the engine to run.