all that must be repaired
is this car fitted out with IMMO and passive electronic keys?
got insurance, all them tell them car was vandilized
may INS CO> have special rules on that. unlike collision.
so call them if if yes, tow car to shop get it fixed on them.
we can not see what this car has there, lots of options!!
the GM car has a RPO list based off VIN full # (all options listed)
and will list IMMO PASSKEY, if there. and is the first thing to do on all cars. made 2decades, or go mad and broke fast.
first things first and fuses good too.
and scan the pCM for IMMO errors, etc.
for sure the key switch was wrecked by them or more.
more happens,
Question edited for clarity.
Question moved to model category.
The first obvious thing to do it check for lights left on, dome light, hood and trunk lights.
This is how you test for what is causing the parasitic drain.
https://www.fixya.com/cars/r29903527-parasitic_draw_car_batteries
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Yes, there is no real difference between the body or frame of a 2whl and 4whl as long as they are the same length, IE standard cab, crew cap, long bed, short bed... If it is a HD 4x4 you might have an extra hole in the floor of the cab for the shifter lever, but the 2whl should have a block off plate for this. If not, you might need to fab up a patch.
Don't know that much about 99 Surburbans but you may won't to see if you could just unplug it from the cluster or maybe see if thiers a fuse for your lights that you can take out
VERY common issue.. the handle being replaced is ok.. but the actual metal rod that connects it to the latch needs bent a little to make it more responsive, what happens is over time this rod (which is bent slightly) will straighten, and the operator pulls harder on the handle which eventually brakes.. then replacing the handle will solve it for a while, until the trend repeats itself... VERY common, I have fixed hundreds in the shop so far...
Check your temp control switch the control is not sending the correct signal to the actuator. Try turning on the heater an then dial it up/down temp and see if that works
Mike
randomly will not start 3 times?????? Won't start how ? When you turn the key to start ,nothing happens or the starter engages an spins the engine but won't start an run ?
Yes add oil,it is hard to say how much without knowing how much you lost. I would guess 4oz of pag oil. And yse vacuum and charge the same. Find out how much freon to add.
I looked at info for 1500--5.7L engine.6 psi @ 1000 rpms18 psi@2000 rpms24 psi @ 4000 rpmsSometimes, you can use analog gage in place of oil pressure sending unit and double check oil pressure that way. If oil pressure is actually low, if high mileage engine, I doubt replacing oil pump will help. I just wanted to add, check oil pressure engine warmed up.
pump pressure is too low
should be around the 22,000 psi mark needed to crack the injectors
indicates that the there is a fuel supply problem to the pump or pressure regulation from the pump
If you mean the front daytime running lights, there is a module controlling these under the dash near the headlight switch. As far as your license plate lights are concerned, it is probably a wiring problem at the back of the truck which you should trace from the lights back to the tail lights to see if that's the problem.
Have it checked for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes ? Does the battery goes dead with the vehicle sitting overnight ? Where do you hear the clicking noise coming from ? Under the insturment panel ?
Test the electrical circuits for those systems using voltage drop . Do you know how to test automotive electrical circuits using a DMM - digital multi meter and a wiring diagram so you know where to test at . Find out what this systems have in commond , a B+ voltage supply or do they share a common ground point ! Looking at a wiring diagram i see the cruise control and 4X4 transfer case shift control module share a common ground G- 103 & G-104 . Plus the
2 or 4 wheel drive light is controlled by the transfer case shift control module
G103 (Gas)
On the right front side of the engine, near the thermostat housing
Power and Grounding Component Views in Wiring Systems
--
G104 (5.0L/5.7L)
Backside of the right cylinder head
It is more then likely a loose connection ( ground ) maybe ! But without testing this would be just a guess !
Basic Electricity for Service Techs Ohm law Current Flow Opens ShortsElectric Testing Techniques You Need to KnowHow to Use Multimeter to Troubleshoot Common Problems
Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Click wiring diagrams , not TSB'S Enter the vehicle info. year , make , model and engine size . Then under system click on the one's your having problems with . Start with testing B+ at the battery engine off ,then running ! 12.6 V engine off is a fully charged battery , 13.1 to 14 .1 + is good charging voltage . Watch the videos an test the circuits . Good luck ! You would like to know what the problem is for sure not guesses .
my thinking is when the engine backfired maybe one of the valves got bent and is now hitting a piston and keeping the engine from turning over or a rod may of gotten bent/broken. you could try taking all the spark plugs out than try rotating the engine backwards if it moves backwards try moving it forwards and see if it stops in the same spot if it dose than it is likely either a valve or the rod if you have something to look inside the engine throw the spark plug hole try to see if a valve is bent and try to see if all the pistons are all moving up and down the same amount. you may be able to tell if the pistons are moving by putting a rod throw the spark plug hole against the piston and trying to rotate the engine in either direction and see if the rod moves the same for all the pistons.
The primary intent of this code is to detect slipped camshaft timing. Have you checked the camshaft timing? Your symptoms indicate you are a tooth off.
