20 Most Recent 1997 GMC Safari - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Sounds like bad connections on battery cable. Usualy corroded wire at positive side by battery terminal. Also load test battery to check for internal shorts. Make sure all grounds are clean and tight and that all ground straps are intact.

front main blower motor.
you need to cut the plastic housing around the
outline of the motor. the housing should have 1 or 2 small screws to hold it to the new motor to prevent excessive motor noise.

if you lost all brakes ...is there still fluid in your reservoir ?...if not look under your van ...on the drivers side ...you will see a covered box that is where your brake lines all come into ...take off cover look for any leaks ..most likely you will have to change all the brakes lines ....if they are leaking ....big job ...but can be done easy ...with a little patience ....make sure you change them all ....best thing to do is cut off old lines but leave all threaded nuts in the box ...mark on a paper where to put them back .....make sure ...you mark down properly ...when i did mine i used life time brake lines ....because i never wanted to do it again in years to come ..harder to work with ..but saves you time down the road in getting the better lines ....you will need a good line bender ....go slow with them in order not to break them ...when you bend them ....for your power steering check for leaks too ...change the lines if you need too ....it's the most pain in the **** to do in an Astro van ect ...or Safari .....once you have changed them all .....do not pump the brakes to bleed them ...just keep pushing the pedal to the floor ....i usually fill the res....then let it bleed it naturally ...until i see fluid then i keep my foot to the floor and release and keep doing it till there is pressure ..takes awhile ....if you change the lines ..change them all ....
Good luck i hope this helped you out .....

Was the problem there before you changed plugs and wires? If not then it's something that you did, possibly crossed a couple plug wires. If the problem was there before you started and you are not getting a check engine light. Try disconnecting the exhaust at the exhaust manifold, just take the pipes loose, or if you can get them fairly easy unscrew the O2 sensor from the exhaust pipe. Try driving now for test purposes only, you may have a plugged catalytic converter. I just worked on a Suburban that had no power in fact it would barely run, that's what I found with that vehicle.

possibly if a abs valve is stuck closed with pressure in it

Without knowing which radio you have??? I will guess. With the radio OFF, push the SET button, now use the Seek/Scan buttons to change the time. when done, push the set button again.

There are hundreds of wires in that model. Please be more specific (tailights, radio, power windows....)

The heater control valve may not be opening. The blend door maybe stuck. Make sure its full of water

Check to see if is blowing out defrost vents if it is you have a vacuum leek. The tube is hard to get to take of dog house you will see a group of tubes on connected to a clear plastic junction. Once you get the dog house off one of the tubes goes to your manifold vacuum fallow them its very thin and the engine heat makes it brittle and they fall apart . Mine did same 2 shops 500 dollars and they never found or fixed it used window washer tubing to fix 2 years ago still works great,

Hello,
It sounds like you need a tune up. I would first check the coil wire and cap and rotor then the plugs and wires. It is also possible you need a fuel filter air filter and PCV valve.
I hope this helps.
Roy

If you are the original owner go to the dealer and have them run the VIN number and retrieve the code.

I don't think it could be the injectors. Because, all of them would have to go bad at the same time to give you code P0300. If one injector when bad on number one cylinder, it would give you a code of P0301 for cylinder #1 misfire. Code P0300 is the computer simply can't determine the specific cylinder of misfire. Basically,

I would look at the EGR system, engine timing, and fuel pressure. One of these should be the source of the problem.

sounds like the actual booster...can you pump the pedal several times while it is off and then start it with foot on pedal and feel any difference?

you may have broke a gasket 0n the manifold and you now have a vacuum leak explaining the high idle. also check the iac sensor it may be stock partly open or sticking

Could be fuel pump, is the pump running when you turn key on, you should be able to hear it. You are likely going to have to take it to someone with a pressure gauge to make sure it is getting proper fuel pressure. Fuel pumps commonly go on these vehicles

That should not happen...providing that you don't have a pressure problem from a blown head gasket, try roughing up the surfaces of the block and pump with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper to permit the gasket to "bite" into them better. Don't over-do this and don't create marks that go from the passages to the outside. Don't use silicone glue as in your situation it may be too slippery. Though it is more difficult to remove later, use a glue similar to the old "indian" glue.
Start the engine without water in it and permit it to run without coolant for two or three minutes to heat the glue and allow it to harden,(just enough to heat engine...too long can damage heads and other gaskets) then add coolant in a half hour or so after you have finished. Also, check that bolts are not too long and are bottoming out before getting tight.(though on most gm engines the holes go all the way through into the water jackets.)

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable for safety.
   
2. Place a catch pan under the radiator, open the drain **** and drain the cooling system.
   
3. Loosen the clamp, then remove the air cleaner assembly.
4. Remove the upper fan shroud retaining bolts, then remove the upper shroud from the vehicle.
5. Remove the fan and clutch assembly retainers using J-41240, or an equivalent fan clutch wrench.
6. If necessary, remove the 4 bolts holding the fan blade to the clutch, then separate the fan from the clutch assembly.
   
   Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten the components to the following specifications:

you will need a special tool to remove #3 fan clutch.


the tool is sold in pep boys auto zone and many auto parts.

Most auto parts stores will read the codes. This will let you know witch sensor is bad.

have the cooling system purged of air (air release bleeder valve on top of thermostat housing) loosen do not take out let air out tighten back