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1997 GMC Safari Questions & Answers
Loses power while in drive.
To what degree do you lose power and in what way? Do you loose over-drive or does it loose power and speed (on the streets, highway, or at any speed). From your discription it does sound like either a fuel flow/pressure issue or a clogged cat.
Rear heat or rear air conditoner not workin in my 1997 gmc safari
two different problems !
Rear heater problem: find under the hood where is hose for cooling liquid goes to front heating core!
you will see there also vacuum tubesgoing in to little valve ! disconnect the vaccum tubes ( engine off)
and spray in wd 40 in to the vlave ... valve is stuck and wont open flow to rear heater !
you do not have to replace tha thing . its very well made and because you dont turn this often in summer
it gets stuck. i had same problem. also make sure vacuum is working - Engine running turn rear heater on - vacuum sucks to open valve. and before that make sure fuse is ok .
for rear AC mine does not work either and it is leak on pipes that go from front to rear .. 10 feet of pipes and tubing $$ expensive repair ... forget it ... open the window...
jebadiah
We understand that your problem
Welcome to the world of improper diagnostics. There isn't a trouble code in the world that says you should replace a part. It only tells you what's going on with that component. In your case, the code P0137 means that the computer sees Low Voltage on the Bank I Sensor 2 oxygen sensor. You replaced the sensor and still have the problem. That means the computer sees Low Voltage on the Bank I Sensor 2 oxygen sensor. In other words, you've got a wiring problem, not a part problem. You'll need a shop manual with step by step instructions on how to test the entire circuit to find the fault.
No brakelights
Next step would be check the brake light switch. It is mounted about the brake pedal and has 2 wire leads to the switch. A simple switch that, when the brake pedal is depressed, the switch closes allowing current to make a connection and light up the brake lights. Check to make sure the wires are connected and that you have voltage at one of the terminals. A simple "circuit tester" is all you need. Turn on the ignition switch (no need to start your car) find the wire that has current (test light will light up). Then depress that pedal and you should have current at both terminals. If not, you probably have a bad switch. If you DO have current at both terminals, the problem is somewhere in the wiring harness.
Before tearing into it though. CHECK THE GROUND WIRES at the taillight assembly. Usually a single wire that is screwed into a metal part of the housing unit. If it corroded, loose or missing. That is your problem.
Hope this helps. Good Luck.
Jack
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