Top 10 1999 Chevrolet K1500 Questions & Answers

i got opel astra 160i 95 model. it jerks when the engine is hot/warm when excellerating.

Temperature sensor is in intake manifold.
Water is not flowing smoothly through the manifold.
2 immediate things to try........
1. Replace the thermostate (about 6 dollars). If you drive the car to an Autozone for the thermostate purchase, they will show you where it is located and how to replace it.

2. Flush (thoroughly) the cooling system. No shortcuts here, buy the flush and follow directions. Have the heater turned on HI.

After the flush, fill with 50-50 antifreeze-water.

Problem within engine are done. Other issue MAY be the sending unit (as your Autozone guy about that... it looks like a spark plug and takes about 3 minutes to replace.

Sounds like you got it. They are heavy and ocward (spelling?). As for the front drive shaft take the bolts out and give it a couple of wacks with a dead blow hammer then slide it out. Maybe a few days before hand give it a good spray down with wd40 or like product. Also when you get to the last bolt for the t-case to trans loosen it half way then put a drain bucket under it and seperate it a little and let the trans fluid drain some, or you will be wearing it.

Several things could cause this since it is auto 4wd and controlled by a COMPUTER! Start the simplest, cheapest troubleshooting first; the electrical and computer system contact plugs and points.
1. it could be cracked solder connections inside the push button switch - try to re-solder or replace the switch.
2. possibly the encoder motor is bad. It is on the side of the Tcase and turns a shaft to shift the case. - try getting one from a scrapyard and swap it, much cheaper than new.
3. The computer module failed, or the contact from the plug to the plug pins is corroded. - first try to unplug and plug back in a few times to make a good contact. if that fails to work, get a used one from the scrapyard and swap it ($50 compared to a new one $500!) Get some cleaning\lube spray from Radio shack for computer terminals to keep from corroding.
4. It could be that you just have a bad connection in the 4wd wiring system. That was my case, it was just the plug connection at the computer module and has been working ever since, and now I have a spare computer module sitting on the workbench.

The computer module is the biggest pain to get to. It is buried in the dash behind the headlight and push button 4wd switch. Good luck!

There may be several issues causing you problem. One is that you have a bad connection either on the battery or on the starter or even a bad battery cable. I would suggest removing the battery cables, If it's side post a 5/16 wrench or socket. If it's a top post then it's likely to be 7/16 or 10mm. Using a terminal brush clean both the negative and positive terminals. But before reconnecting them, inspect the cables from the battery to their respective connection points. (The starter and the block) Make sure they do not have any broken insulation or dark discolorations in the insulation which represents excessive heat and a weak spot in the cable. Also check and clean the connecting points. Using a socket to remove the ground cable, once removed use a stiff wire brush to clean the surface of the block, then reconnect to the block. Then move to the starter, Using a 5/16 remove the solenoid wires and a 1/2 or 9/16 to remove the battery cable from the starter. Again use a wire brush to clean both surfaces and check the cable ends (eyelets) for a good connection. then reinstall the cables.
I am not sure how they tested your starter, however I have seen several auto parts stores use a diagnostic load machine that checks the starting system without the removal of the starter. If this was the test performed this is not an accurate test for a starter. The Starter will need to be removed, taking the positive cable loose from the battery, then remove the battery cable from the starter with a 1/2 or 9/16 generally socket and a 5/16 generally for the solenoid wire. Once the wires are removed you will have two 9/16(generally) bolts that can be removed with a socket and ratchet. Once the bolts are removed the starter will already be wanting to come out. Remove the starter and take it in to a reputable Auto parts store and ask them to perform a load test. This load test will give you the exact amp draw of the starter and solenoid and then they can tell you if it exceeds the manufactures spec.
Thanks, Dorrian

Firing order: 1-6-5-4-3-2 Distributor rotation: clockwise




4.3L Engine
Firing order: 1–6–5–4–3–2
Distributorless ignition system

P0340 OBD-II Trouble Code - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction

This indicates that a problem was detected in the camshaft position sensor circuit. Since it says circuit, that means the problem could lie in any part of the circuit - the sensor itself, the wiring, or the PCM. Don't just replace the CPS (camshaft position sensor) and think that will definitely fix it.

Symptoms can include:
* Hard starting or no start
* Rough running / misfiring
* Loss of engine power

Causes: A code P0340 could mean one or more of the following has happened:
* a wire or connector in the circuit could be grounded/shorted/broken
* the camshaft position sensor may have failed
* the PCM may have failed
* there exists an open circuit
* the crankshaft position sensor may have failed

Possible Solutions: With a P0340 OBD-II trouble code, diagnosis can be tricky at times. Here are some things to try:
* Visually inspect all the wiring and connectors in the circuit
* Check for continuity in the circuit wiring
* Check the operation (voltage) of the camshaft position sensor
* Replace the camshaft position sensor as required
* Check the crankshaft position circuit as well
* Replace circuit wiring and/or connectors as required
* Diagnose/replace the PCM as required



P0133 OBD-II Trouble Code - Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank1, Sensor1)

This involves the front oxygen sensor on Bank 1. This code indicates the engine air fuel ratio is not being adjusted by the oxygen sensor signal or the ECM as expected to do so, or not adjusted as often as expected to do so once the engine is warmed or under normal engine use.

Symptoms: You will likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms.

Causes: A code P0133 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
* The oxygen sensor is faulty
* The wiring to the sensor is broken / frayed
* There is an exhaust leak

Possible Solutions: The simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.
If the code comes back, the problem is more than likely the front Bank 1 oxygen sensor. You will likely wind up replacing it but you should also consider these possible solutions:
* Check and fix any exhaust leaks
* Check for wiring problems (shorted, frayed wires)
* Check the frequency and amplitude of the oxygen sensor (advanced)
* Check for a deteriorating / contaminated oxygen sensor, replace if necessary
* Check for inlet air leaks
* Check the MAF sensor for proper operation


Hope this helps (remember to rate this answer).

Torque Angle is supposed to be a "more scientific and precise way to gauge the "clamping force" applied to a bolt. This idea appeared about 20 years ago and is now, sadly, becoming universal on newer vehicles. The idea behind Torque Angle is that using the old foot-pounds torque wrench would not give you the kind of *exact* repeatable torque that you get using a breaker bar with a Torque Angle meter attached.

Unfortunately, there is no precise way of converting between Torque Angle and Foot Pounds. The best you can do -- and it will work -- is figure each "point" on the head of a 6-point bolt is equal to 60 degrees of Toque Angle (360 degree circle of the bolt head divided by the 6 points) and do the following:

Do NOT use a torque wrench with this technique -- instead you must use a long breaker bar with the correct size socket attached (for this kind of heavy duty torquing a 1/2 breaker bar and socket would really be best):

Per the instructions you gave in your question, you would mark one of the six points on the bolt head and make a corresponding mark on the surface of what you're working on. Then turn the bolt so that the marked point turns away from the surface mark until the next point on the bolt reaches the surface mark.

You've just turned the bolt as close to 60 degrees as you're going to get without a Torque Angle meter (which I have found be very difficult if not impossible to use correctly in most real world cases anyway). This approximate 60 degree turn you just made is close enough to the first 55 degrees stated in the instructions. Same would be true for the next two measurements. Move the next point on the bolt to line up with the surface mark and finally turn the next point after that to the surface mark. As an engine mechanic of 40 years experience, I feel this end result is close enough because with that kind of a torque requirement you are really going to be cranking that bolt down and a few degrees of angle isn't going to matter by the time you do the last torque.

Using a Torque Angle meter may be just fine if you're working on the factory floor, but for everyone else I personally think Torque Angle is another case of "newer ain't necessarily better".

Open the box next to piston of plow and unplug the solenoid connections make sure they are clean. Just took mine off and put back on and it is working fine now

Check this for 2000 Chevrolet Silverado C1500 Car Stereo Wiring Diagram... Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Orange
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Brown
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue

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