20 Most Recent 1994 Chevrolet Beretta Questions & Answers

Clean your battery terminals

Remove the plastic cover first then remove the starter bolts.

Go buy a bottle of K-Seal! Best cooling system sealer on the market!

Boy, you have a shot out. A raw wire touching some metal, or wires touching each other. Going to have to trace your wires back to the fuse box, that is the hard part. Cross your fingers that is is found quickly.

In your "Control Panel," bring up mouse or pointing device properties. There should be a tab for your touch pad where you can enable and disable it.

Drop the Engine Cradle and you will gain access to the hose to get it loose.

GM coilpacks are notorious for going bad. Start engine and one by one pull off spark plug boot from coil. You won't need to pull it completly off, just enough till you notice and idle change. You will also hear the sound of the spark jumping the gap you created. You may hear a click or pop noise over and over. If there is no idle change and popping noise when you remove that wire from the coil, then you have a dead post and will need to replace coil pack. If I remember correctly there are 3 coils that fire 2 cylinder each. Replaceing all 3 is generaly a wise decision. But you can get by with just the one that's faulty. Also those cars develop harmonic balancer issues; but they are rare. Lastly motor mounts will give you similar symptoms. Set the parking brake if it still works; or firmly apply foot brake, have an assistant do this while you watch the engine. The assistant with the brake firmly applied will start the engine and put the trans. Into reverse, the assistant will then quickly tap the gas pedal quickly. You watch the engines responce. It is supposed to move a little; but if that engine looks like it wants to jump out of the engine compartment you will need 1 or all mounts replaced. Repeat steps with trans. In drive if you did not notice excessive engine movement with it in reverse. If the engine appears to be in there securely then your mounts are fine. Both of these tests are easy to do.

replace front axle shaft you need to loosen axle nut with vechicle weight on the wheel just unloosen axle nut dont take axle nut all the way off just loosen it enough first remove hub cap to loosen axle nut.once loosen then raise vechicle remove wheel tire.you need to remove loosen brake caliper bolts just move brake caliper out of way support caliper piece of wire dont have to disconnect brake caliper hose just move it aside let it hang with a piece clothe hanger or piece or cord dont hang caliper by brake hose will damage brake hose.you need to remove brake caliper mounting bracket.go ahead remove axle nut.you have to remove steering knuckle bolts pull steering knuckle out of the strut bracket.you can remove front axle shaft by using large pry bar to the inner cv pry inner cv joint use a little leverage front axle should pop out.when you install new axle shaft push it in place until you hear it snap in place try pull by hand make sure half shaft in place. when done axle nut torque is 191 ft lbs.strut bracket bolts torque at 133 ft lbs.if this is your first time working on vechicle let a garage do the job.but buy the new shaft then take it with you for garage to replace be cheaper take own parts help cut down costs for part just pay for labor.

a bad engine coolant temperature sensor will cause cold no start conditions.your coolant sensor main sensor during cold start condition because when engine coolant cold PCM will cause rich fuel mixture for cold start up when engine coolant and oxygen sensor warms up cause engine goo in close loop lean mixture.but coolant sensor is the main information sensor if bad it will cause many problems.

bad computer will set off check engine light.you will get a PCM fault code.computer problem will cause engine run poorly no power back up mode,bad computer will cause no start problems.your problem sound like faulty TPS SENSOR.clogged fuel filter and clogged air filter.fuel injectors dirty need cleaning.

did you check the gauge that could be bad and did you check the thermostat thaat could need replacing

The following are the general instructions on the start of diagnosing any electronically controlled engine or transmission problem.

The engine and the automatic transmission (transmission control is only for automatics, engine is still computer controlled no matter the transmission type) in this vehicle are computer controlled and in most cases when a fault occurs a fault code is stored in the memory of the computer control module. There are exception to this, such as the Mass Airflow Meter and fuel pressure problems. What must be done is to have all the basic testing done such as a scan of the system for fault codes as well as a check with a live data scanner tool for engine functions that are not within range of normal, a trained technician is required to know what is correct and what isn't, then based on careful diagnostics done from a factory repair manual the correct part is replaced or the wiring repaired or the computer replaced (known as the PCM), which is very rarely the problem. Other basic checks must be done as well such as mechanical problems with the engine as well as engine state of tune and mileage on the engine. The transmission can have mechanical issues as well such as no gear engagement at all or a failed pump or other pressure related problems.

there should be a couple of little screws on the body of your car.

check for bulbs or fuse or relay.

buy a hanes or chilton book for your car and it should be able to show you

on the lower part of the transmission on the radiator is a vacuum modulator that probably has a bad diaphram. If you locate it take the hose off and see if trans fluid comes out. if so replace the vacuum modulator.You will still see smoke for awhile until cleans out of the exhaust.