Ive got a 2000 sunfire gt that i just bought less than 3 months ago used. It doesnt have a scratch opn it!!! Very beautiful car... I only drove it a few times. Could not have put more than 200 miles on the damn thing,and now im being told that the engine is knocking between 3 and 4? not sure what that means EXACTLEY, but Ive been told that I need a new engine...I only bought the car for 3200.00 which i still owe most of...and a new/rebuilt engine will be at least 3 grand with instal? is there a better solution? Im smart enough to get involved..maybe I can buy a used engine and swap it out myself??? anyone give me some idaes or some directions on replacing the eninge myself. I know this seems absurd, but Im desperate and broke...
Relax, it could be anything, faulty knock sensor, emission, ignition fuel or any inexpensive and easy to fix problems. Who knows where the knock is coming from, engine or transmission mounts, suspension components etc. Let me know where the knock is coming from if any. Noises are common in any vehicle when parts get worn, all parts are replaceable.
Posted on May 01, 2009
What type of transmission fluid do i put in my 2004 pontiac sunfire
You can use dextron 3 or dextron III ATF transmission fluid.You can get this fluid at any local car parts store in your area.
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Posted on May 20, 2010
chimes not working when key left in ignition and drivers's door open
posible the key is worn enough not triggering the key in ignition sensoer in the ignition switch
Posted on Jan 21, 2011
2004 sunfire ignition key wire does it have one/ instaling new radio only have constanyt 12 volt radio power on off button does not shut off do i use this wire and where does it go the ignition wire on the new radio that is thankyou
Hi, your factory Sunfire wire colors are pasted below. The yellow wire should be accessory. This should connect to the stereo's red power wire. The orange "always hot" wire should connect to the stereo yellow wire--this is only used to keep your station presets in memory. Please let me know if you have more questions, and thanks for using FixYa.
2004 Pontiac Sunfire Car Stereo Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Orange
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Brown
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: Pink
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Pink
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue
Posted on Apr 04, 2011
Please help, I am so frustrated with this car! In Dec of 2007 my car died while driving it, it restarted but seemed like it wasnt running on all cylinders. Thought it was the spark plugs, took it to autozone had them test it, code came back for ECM engine control module that sits on top of the engine. Replaced this $120.00 part from NAPA car ran fine for almost a year. Dec of 2008 car died again while driving restarted same problem as before, ran test said ECM again. Since the part wasnt even a year old yet NAPA replaced. Car ran fine for a week did the same thing. NAPA replaced again. Then my o2 sensor went out, car sat in driveway until I could fix it, running fine with new ECM but car was only moved in and out of driveway not driven long distances, finally replaced o2 sensor yesterday I pushed down on the gas pedal car jerked and lost a lot of power but did not die. Same problem ECM went out, I looked at it it was not hot or anything. Any ideas on what could keep making this part blow out? Seems to happen when gas pedal is pushed hard and fast.
the first thing that comes to mind is ignition system faults. Are the spark plug wires connected properly, in the right firing order? Has work been done on the distributer, or the engine head, recently? Ignition timing can be 180 degrees out, and the engine will still run, sometimes. If it is not the ignition system, the next most likely culprit is the head gasket, which seals the head to the block of the engine. If this gasket is breached seriously, it can cause a cylinder(s) not to fire. Is there water in the oil, as evidenced by a thick, white foam? Is there oil in the coolant? Either of these are symptoms of a leaking head gasket.
Basically, one cylinder isnt firing for one of a number of reasons. The most common cause is an igntion fault. This will cause the engine to feel and sound "lumpy", and the power would be greatly reduced. The best way to find the cylinder which is responsible is quite simple but care must be taken. Firstly if you hate electric shocks as much as I do, find a proper pair of electricians insulated pliers, and even some decent rubber gloves if you can aswell. Start the engine, and one at a time, use the pliers to remove a lead from the top of one spark plug, if the engine almost stops, or gets worse in any way, it is not that piston which isnt firing. Repeat the proccess, one at a time, you will know which piston ISNT firing when you remove the plug lead, and there is no change in the engine sound, this is your defective cylinder. Its just a case then of looking at the condition of the spark plug and asessing the cause of the misfire before carrying out repairs. BEWARE:- THE LEADS WHICH CONNECT TO THE SPARK PLUGS CARRY SEVERAL THOUSANDS OF VOLTS - HENCE RUBBER GLOVES AND INSULATED PLIERS
Posted on Mar 05, 2009
My 2004 Pontiac Sunfire gauges like the speedometer, rpm and gas gauges are all improperly positioned. Like it says when im stopped its at 30mph, The RPM goes to 7 when im only doing 3, or the gas gauge is all the way to the left beyond full when i know i only have half a tank.
This has been happening for a while and now all the gauges will not go back to where they should be. Please help! Is there any way to reprogram them back??
On the 03-05 Cavalier instrument clusters this is a common problem, it's caused by failing stepper motors on the cluster's circuit board. It can be repaired though, check out this site for more on how to get it fixed - Cavalier instrument cluster repair
Posted on Sep 30, 2010
My 2004 Sunfire check engine light recently came on, but within seconds of it coming on there was a noticable "pop" sound that came from underneath the car about under the back seats. This happened as soon as I started the car. Then the light came on and it idled really rough for a while until I started driving and it smoothed out. Now it starts with no problem or idle issues except after getting gas. No matter how much or little or how slow I pump gas into the tank, as soon as I try to start it, it idles really rough and acts as though it will die any second. After keeping it running and driving a few minutes it clears up and drives fine no matter how many times I turn it on and off, until I get gas again. When scanned a few codes came up and they were EVAP system flow during non-purge wich narrows it down to vacum hoses, purge solenoid, valve, or the vapor canister itself. I am curisous as to whether the check light (EVAP) issue and the rough idle after putting fuel in the tank are related and if so wich of those EVAP components is most likely the problem.
DTC P0442, P0455 or P0456 are all diagnostic codes indicating a leak has been detected in the EVAP system:
- P0442 EVAP Leak Monitor .040 Leak Detected (Medium Leak)
- P0455 EVAP Leak Monitor Large Leak Detected
- P0456 EVAP Leak Monitor .020 Leak Detected (Small Leak)
What this code means is that the computer has tested the evap system and was not able to draw a vacuum on the fuel tank. it does this by turning on the evap vent valve which closes the fuel tank vent off, It then opens the vacuum solenoid and allows engine vacuum to be drawn on the fuel tank. A sensor in the fuel tank monitors the Pressure/Vacuum levels on the tank and reports this to the computer.If the computer does not see a change in pressure/vacuum on the tank then code P0455 will set.
Check under the hood to make certain no vacuum lines are disconnected, check your fuel cap if it isn't sealing correctly or is missing or the wrong one this will cause that code to set, You may have a bad vent valve in the gas cap causing the problem.
If you first get a P0442 or P0456 then a while later get a P0455 it is a sign a hose is going bad.
It is common for the hoses over the gas tank on Jeeps and some other chrysler cars to go bad, which requires removal of the gas tank to repair. Could also mean a piece of charcoal from the vapor canister is stuck in a line. Blowing the lines out can fix it.
If you get a P0455 (large leak) at the outset it more likely a stuck valve or a hose which came loose. A smoke machine is the fastest way to finds leaks in these systems but not a common tool for do it your selfers (click image diagram for zoom).
Additional details could find in this TSB procedure DTC P0440 (click over link).
If you have additional comments about this, keep in mind also send us exactly what faulto code found there.
Keep us updated.
Posted on Jun 20, 2011
just put a new fuel pump in the car, the relay is buzzing when i turn the key on and the engine cranks but wont start. i took the relay out and used a jumper wire and the pump turns on. with the relay the relay just buzzes and wont turn the pump on. i tried 2 relays as well....
I'm having the same problem. What did it end up being?
Posted on Jan 03, 2011
how to bleed 2004 pontiac sunfire slave cylinder
There are 2 ways to bleed the clutch slave cylinder on any vehcile really. First way is to have a person in the car pump the clutch pedal several times and hold it to the floor. While the person holds the clutch pedal to the floor a second person opens the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder itself, once the air/fluid has stopped running out of the bleeder screw, tighten it again and have the first person in the car pull up on clutch pedal from the floor (because it will stick down after openening and tightening the bleeder screw) and then repeat that process until the clutch pedal feels good and hard. Make sure you fill the fluid in the clutch master resevoir each time you open and close the bleeder screw so you don't get new air coming through the system from emptying the resevoir.
Now, the second way is the way I prefer because you only need 1 person, however you do need more tools. Fill the clutch master resevoir will the proper fluid then find a cap that fits the resevoir or buy a replacement cap and drill a small 1/8" hole in the middle of the cap then use a vacuum pump and insert a rubber adapter (from the vacuum pump kit) into the 1/8th hole you have drilled. you'll want to hook up your vacuum pump with an inline catch tank that usually comes with the kit you purchase. Then just pump the tool creating a vacuum in the master resevoir, this will reverse bleed all the air up into the resevoir. as you see the fluid drop add more fluid and repeat this process until the fluid no longer drops. Check the clutch pedal for proper opperation and you're good to go!
Posted on Jul 23, 2014
replace instrument cluster
Is your speedometer or tachometer needle acting weird or giving wrong readings? If so it's probably the drive motors going bad, very common for sunfire instrument cluster and speedometers they all need replaced which isn't too hard if you have the parts and the equipment.
If not email me at [email protected] or visit my site at DrSpeedometer.com and I can fix it for you for a good price.
Posted on Aug 31, 2010
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