Top 10 2002 Pontiac Grand Am Questions & Answers

I had the same problem in my 2002 grand am GT. After taking it to a transmission shop and them telling me that I had all this stuff wrong with it that was going to cost me about 2700$ I looked elsewhere. I had an Intake Temperature Sensor that had went bad. It was registering on the check engine light after the fact. I changed it and then found out there was a loose wire in the connector. I fixed that and havent had a problem with it since

Here you go.

Removing the rack and pinion assembly from a 2002 Pontiac Grand Am Se To get the old rack and pinion off of the car for replacement involves lowering the sub-frame, removing the stabilizer bar, and pulling the rack out from the driver side of the vehicle.

• Start by lifting or jacking up the car and removing the front wheels. Once the car is safely supported, disconnect both tie rods from the steering knuckles.
• The rear motor mount sits on top of the cross-member part of the sub-frame, and must be disconnected to allow the sub-frame to drop a few inches. Remove the three bolts attaching it to the center of the sub-frame - one in the back and two in the front near the back of the transmission.
• Loosen the two bolts holding the front of the sub-frame. Place a scissor jack or bottle jack under the rear of the sub-frame where the bolt for the motor mount was. Remove the two smaller bolts from each side of the rear of the sub-frame (total 4 bolts) and then loosen the two remaining larger bolts holding the rear of the sub-frame (these bolts go through the rear control arm bushings and are very long) until the bolts are only going through the control arm bushing, and not into the chassis. You do not need to remove these completely.
• Remove the stabilizer links from both sides.
• Next you must disconnect the steering linkage. This is done easily by lifting up the rubber boot to expose the small bolt holding the linkage. Remove the bolt and pry the linkage upward using a pry tool or screw driver.
• Near the passenger side of the crossmember, remove the bolt holding the power steering line bracket to the chassis. You may now begin to lower the sub-frame using the jack. The front bolts should have lowered the sub-frame about a half-inch or so, allowing you to lower the back of the sub-frame 3 or 4 inches.
• With the sub-frame lowered, you can now access the bolts holding the stabilizer bar in place. The right side has a nut screwed onto the top of it holding the power steering lines, remove this first, then remove both bolts. Pry or pull the stabilizer brackets up and out. Remove the stabilizer bar.
• Now you can get to both of the bolts holding the rack in place. Remove both of these, then begin to slide the rack toward the driver side wheel well until there is no more slack in the power steering lines. At this point you should be able to get to the nuts securing the lines on the rack. Loosen both nuts and be ready with something to cap the ends with. I used part of a plastic bag and a wire to tie it. You can now pull the rack out through the driver side.
• Be sure to replace the rubber o-rings on the ends of the lines when putting the new rack in. Replace everything in the reverse order. Put your tie rods on the new rack, making sure to count the turns or make a mark or measure to be sure your tie rods end up close to the same length as before.
• Bleed the power steering system.

Important: Get an alignment! Not only is it dangerous to drive with your steering out of align but it will also grate the tread off your tires in a matter of weeks or even days.

hope this helps

with motor cold, follow the top radiator hose to motor,there will be housing at that end of hose close to motor.remove the 2 bolts @ remove the thermostat housing. remember which way you remove the thermostat from that housing, replace with your new one and reverse these directions to put back together. i would also recommend a new gasket with new thremostat.a little rtv or some people call it blue glue might also be needed.when removing the thermostat from housing you may have to remove the top hose also.befor you start, remember fluid will come out of hose and the housing, be prepared with something to catch that fluid.

No. 2002 Pontiac Grand Am is not equipped with a cabin air filter.

Here is a list of all the filters that your vehicle was originally equipped with.

Air Cleaner Filter
Fluid Filter - Automatic Transmission
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pump Pickup Filter (inside fuel tank)
Oil Filter

Getting the timing chain back on these engines can be tricky and requires more than just a diagram to get right. Here is how the timing chain should be reinstalled. Keep in mind that this engine can cause damage to the valves if the timing chain has any problems while the engine is running so it may not be a bad idea to setup the timing system as follows and do a compression test to make sure that everything is in order there.
Install the crankshaft sprocket with timing mark at the 5 o'clock position. Lower the timing chain through the opening in the top of the cylinder head. Carefully ensure that the chain goes around both sides of the cylinder block bosses (See 1 & 2 in picture): http://gsi.xw.gm.com/image_en_us/gif/000/000/412/412535.gif

Install the intake camshaft sprocket with the INT diamond at the 2 o'clock position. Hand tighten a NEW intake camshaft sprocket bolt. Route the timing chain around the crankshaft sprocket with the matching colored link aligning with the timing mark. Route the timing chain around the intake camshaft sprocket with the uniquely colored link (1) aligning with the INT diamond: http://gsi.xw.gm.com/image_en_us/gif/000/000/466/466558.gif

Install the timing chain tensioner guide through the opening in the top of the cylinder head. Tighten the timing chain tensioner guide bolt to 10 N·m (89 lb in): http://gsi.xw.gm.com/image_en_us/gif/000/000/412/412160.gif

Install the exhaust camshaft sprocket with the timing chain matching colored link (3) at EXH triangle aligned at the 10 o'clock position: http://gsi.xw.gm.com/image_en_us/gif/000/000/466/466570.gif

Ensure the timing marks and the colored links (1,2,3) are correctly aligned: http://gsi.xw.gm.com/image_en_us/gif/000/002/003/2003412.gif

Use a 24 mm wrench to rotate the camshaft slightly, until exhaust sprocket aligns with the camshaft. Hand tighten the NEW exhaust camshaft sprocket bolt: http://gsi.xw.gm.com/image_en_us/gif/000/000/412/412536.gif

Install the fixed timing chain guide. Tighten the fixed timing chain bolts to 10 N·m (89 lb in): http://gsi.xw.gm.com/image_en_us/gif/000/000/412/412165.gif

Apply sealant, GM P/N 12378521 (Canadian P/N 88901148) compound to thread and install the timing chain guide bolt access hole plug. Tighten the chain guide plug to 90 N·m (66 lb ft): http://gsi.xw.gm.com/image_en_us/gif/000/000/412/412164.gif

Install the timing chain upper guide. Tighten the timing chain upper guide bolts to 10 N·m (89 lb in): http://gsi.xw.gm.com/image_en_us/gif/000/000/412/412167.gif

Inspect the timing chain tensioner. If the timing chain tensioner, O-ring seal, or washer is damaged, replace the timing chain tensioner. Measure the timing chain tensioner assembly from end to end. A new tensioner should be supplied in the fully compressed non-active state. A tensioner in the compressed state will measure 72 mm (2.83 in) (a) from end to end. A tensioner in the active state will measure 85 mm (3.35 in) (a) from end to end.

****If the timing chain tensioner is not in the compressed state, perform the following steps. Remove the piston assembly from the body of the timing chain tensioner by pulling it out. Set the J 45027-2 (2) into a vise. Install the notch end of the piston assembly into the J 45027-2 (2). Using the J 45027-1 (1), turn the ratchet cylinder into the piston: http://gsi.xw.gm.com/image_en_us/gif/000/000/797/797246.gif

Inspect the bore of the tensioner body for dirt, debris, and damage. If any damage appears, replace the tensioner. Clean dirt or debris out with a lint free cloth. Install the compressed piston assembly back into the timing chain tensioner body until it stops at the bottom of the bore. Do not compress the piston assembly against the bottom of the bore. If the piston assembly is compressed against the bottom of the bore, it will activate the tensioner, which will then need to be reset again. At this point the tensioner should measure approximately 72 mm (2.83 in) (a) from end to end. If the tensioner does not read 72 mm (2.83 in) (a) from end to end repeat the steps required to return it to it's compressed state above.

Install the timing chain tensioner. Tighten the timing chain tensioner to 75 N·m (55 lb ft). Use a suitable tool with a rubber tip on the end. Feed the tool down through the camshaft drive chant to rest on the timing chain. Then give a sharp jolt diagonally downwards to release the tensioner: http://gsi.xw.gm.com/image_en_us/gif/000/000/412/412158.gif

Use a 24 mm wrench to hold the camshaft. Tighten the NEW camshaft bolts to 85 N·m (63 lb ft) plus 30 degrees: http://gsi.xw.gm.com/image_en_us/gif/000/000/630/630311.gif

Hi there:
The automatic Transmission Fluid Pressure (TFP) manual valve position switch consists of five pressure switches (two normally-closed and three normally-open), and a transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) sensor combined into one unit. The combined unit mounts on the valve body.
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) supplies ignition voltage for each range signal. By grounding one or more of these circuits through various combinations of the pressure switches, the PCM detects which manual valve position you select. The PCM compares the actual voltage combination of the switches to a TFP manual valve position switch combination chart stored in memory.

The TFP manual valve position switch cannot distinguish between PARK and NEUTRAL because the monitored valve body pressures are identical. With the engine OFF and the ignition switch in the ON position, the TFP manual valve position switch indicates PARK/NEUTRAL. Disconnecting the AT inline 20-way connector removes the ground potential for the three range signals to the PCM. In this case, with the engine OFF, and the ignition switch in the ON position, D2 will be indicated.

When the PCM detects an invalid state of the TFP manual valve position switch circuit by deciphering the TFP manual valve position switch inputs, then DTC P1810 sets.Action Taken When the DTC SetsThe PCM illuminates the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) during the second consecutive trip in, which the Conditions for Setting the DTC are met.The PCM commands D2 line pressure.The PCM commands a D4 shift pattern.The PCM freezes transmission adapt functions.The PCM records the operating conditions when the Conditions for Setting the DTC are met. The PCM stores this information as Freeze Frame and Failure Records.The PCM stores DTC P1810 in PCM history during the second consecutive trip in, which the Conditions for Setting the DTC are met.Since the computer does not know what gear range the transmission is shifted into, it defaults to a higher line pressure to protect the transmission. It also commands the transmission as if it were in the D4 position. The transmission will still shift normally through all the gears, shifts may be more firm than normal. No damage will occur to the transmission if driven even for prolonged periods with this dtc set. It is far more likely that the loss of transmission fluid damaged the transmission.

Hope helps.

Try this one:

Go to youtube watch a video this will help u understand the procedure