There are many things to test
1- grounds terminals or circuit daytime running lights (most common)
2 - voltage drop at the module
3 - you need to have the same kind of headlights bulbs
example: two the same amps and products
Hope it help.If you need more just send me your info
There are two access, left side (driver side) instrument panel, pull cover and under the hood driver side close to firewall or besides de brake master cylinder screw on top of cover
Most likely that one of the ABS Wheel Sensors is disconnected or got damaged during repairs that you made. Check connectors for ABS wheel sensors at front brakes. If look ok, you need to check computer codes to know which sensor is damaged and replace sensor.
This site shows a solution for $250, from a reliable manufacturer called newrockies. Your grand am is covered in their list of cars that their module works on.
website is called: vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.com
Not a fuse problem , same fuse power's low an high beams . Looking at wiring diagrams an using a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter to test the electrical circuit's is the way to find the problem . The light's staying on for 3 or 4 min's. is a function of the BCM - body control module ! Do you know anything about automotive electrical testing ? Do you know what a wiring diagram is an how to read one . Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. Year , make , model an engine size . Under system click on lighting ,then under subsystem click on headlamps .Click the search button then the blue link. get yourself a cheap DVOM an test the electrical circuit's , this is how electrical problems are solved .
Electric Testing Techniques You Need to KnowBasic Electricity for Service Techs Ohm law Current Flow Opens Shorts
Plus reading factory service repair info for how it should work would be a good idea .
Headlamps
The headlamps may be turned on two different ways. First, when the driver places the headlamp switch in the HEADLAMP position, for normal operation. Second, with the headlamp switch placed in the OFF position, for automatic lamp control (ALC). During ALC, the headlamps will be in day time running lamp (DRL) operation in daylight conditions, or low beam operation in low light conditions. The LH HDLPand RH HDLP fuses, supply battery positive voltage from the underhood junction block to the left and right headlamps. The circuit continues through both low and high beam lamps, then back to the underhood junction block. The low beam and high beam circuits continue to the headlamp switch. The low beam and high beam circuits also provide the body control module (BCM) with both low and high beam inputs. The headlamp switch includes the dimmer switch and the flash-to-pass switch. When the headlamp switch is placed in the HEADLAMP position a path to ground is provided. Ground is provided at G201. Depending on the position of the high/low beam switch, either the low or high beam circuit will now have power and ground.
The LH HDLP fuse in the underhood junction block, supplies battery positive voltage to the automatic lamp control (ALC) headlamp relay coil circuit. The ALC relay switch circuit is connected to the low beam circuit at the headlamp switch. When the headlamp switch is placed in the OFF position, the BCM will automatically turn on the low beams in low light conditions. The BCM energizes the ALC relay, closing the switch contacts and grounding the low beam circuit. Ground is provided at G201. With the headlights in the low beam position, the high beams may be momentarily turned on or flashed with the dimmer switch handle. The flash-to-pass feature is accomplished by pulling the dimmer switch handle toward the driver. The headlights may be switched to high beam with the opposite movement of the dimmer switch lever. When the headlamp dimmer switch handle is pulled toward the driver, the flash-to-pass switch closes grounding the high beam circuit. Ground is provided at G201. Both high beams will remain on until the driver releases the switch handle.
If the driver places the headlight switch in the HEADLAMP position , the headlights will remain on until turned off or the battery runs dead.
Do you know what a factory diagnostic trouble shooting chart is ?
Headlamps Inoperative - Low Beams
Step
Action
Yes
No
Schematic Reference: Headlights/Daytime Running Lights (DRL) Schematics
1
Did you perform the Lighting System Diagnostic System Check?
YES - Go to Step 2
NO - Go to Diagnostic System Check - Lighting Systems
2
Place the headlamp switch in the HEADLAMP position.
Place the headlamp dimmer switch in the LOW position.
Do the low beam headlamps illuminate?
YES - Go to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems
NO - Go to Step 3
3
Disconnect the turn/headlamp wiper switch assembly connector C2.
Connect a 15 amp fused jumper between the headlamp low beam signal circuit and a good ground.
Do the low beam headlamps illuminate?
YES - Go to Step 4
NO - Go to Step 5
4
Inspect for poor connections at the harness connector of the turn/headlamp wiper switch assembly. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections and Connector Repairs in Wiring Systems.
Did you find and correct the condition?
YES - Go to Step 7
NO - Go to Step 6
5
Repair an open or high resistance in the headlamp low beam signal circuit. Refer to Circuit Testing and Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.
YES - Did you complete the repair?
NO - Go to Step 7
--
6
Replace the turn/headlamp wiper switch assembly. Refer to Multifunction Turn Signal Lever Replacement - On Vehicle in Steering Wheel and Column.
Did you complete the replacement?
Go to Step 7
--
7
Operate the system in order to verify the repair.
Did you correct the condition?
YES - System OK
NO - Go to Step 3
The lights will stay on with or without the keys on most cars if the switch itself isn't turned off, also make sure all the doors are closed tight, and the sensors on the doors are working correctly.
You need to have a good battery in it. There are to many computer controlled opponents. Put a new or known good battery in it and try it. If it doesn't start then check for fire at the plugs and fuel pressure at the fuel rail.
Were you able to read the ABS trouble codes? I have pasted the codes below. You might want to check the torque on the wheel bearing bolts and axle nut.
random no crank could be a seal has gone on a sensor plug you will need to check the connection plugs on the sensors, check all the plug connections and especially the co2 sensors as they get most of the road dirt on them while driving, clean the connections with emery cloth. any white or cream colors on the connections clean off. and replace the rubber seal.
Anti-theft system ? Security light lit on the insturment cluster ? Are the fuel injectors being energized ? Will a scan tool communicate with all the modules on the vehicle . DTC'S diagnostic trouble codes ? U codes
It sounds like a blown gasket on the intake manifold.
You see the over heating was the real problem and that was caused by the radiator and heater core being clogged Chevy has this problem.Then the intake manifold warps and starts sucking air in .This fools the computer and you have all kinds of other problems with performance .
Get a can of spray silicone lubricant, and using the nozzle tube, spray down the front and rear guide tracks of the window. Run the window up and down a few times to distribute the lubricant, and the window should work fine.
