You need to find out just were the oil is leaking from to start with .I have just done my Mercedes with the same problem valve cover gasket was leaking .Oil was leaking down the side and on the plugs that are hot ,, so it burns off the oil ,this is what you can smell. If other items are doing the same you will need to do that part as well..The breather system may be blocked up also if it is not breathing oil will build up . Good luck
If the blinker is doing double time then there is a blown bulb or bad connection somewhere in the lighting system. Check all bulbs and sockets for wear, rust , moisture. It is in your rear light system.. replace all rear bulbs clean connections. Be certain to use recommended bulbs. In some cars universal bulbs can cause a voltage reading problem. Also check your brake switch.
seems as if the system isnt priming itself when you first move the key to ON in which the fuel pump would kick on for just a moment to prime the carb with fuel if it doesnt sound like the fuel pump is starting at that moment there might be a problem with the fuel pump or a relay going to it or maybe a fuse relating to the fuel pump
verdigris ( blue rubbish on the terminal) is a result of sulphuric acid from the vents of the battery
if you pull the terminals off the battery , you will most likely see that the battery posts are dull black with a hard surface
the posts and inside the terminals have to be shiny clean as that black coating is massive resistance to current flow
Sounds like a failed alternator to me. The alt powers everything when running. If failed the battery takes over, then dies leaving no power source and no start. Charge the battery start the car and put a volt meter across the battery. When running it should read 13.5 to 14.5 volts. If it is reading around 12, your alternator has failed.
That's either a starter kill or alarm system(black box with yellow and red wires). Make sure your battery is fully charged. You should be able to turn the ign. sw. on your left knee with a small screwdriver and see if anything powers up. The connector on your right knee should have a male connector to plug into also before trying the ign. switch.
You need to post the engine size, but if it's the 2.5 engine, you need to loosen the tensioner, remove belt, pull the supporting bolts, and the hoses, and if the new pump does not come with a pulley, (typically they don't) then you will need to get a pulley remover and installation tool). DO NOT HAMMER THE PULLEY BACK ON OR YOU WILL DESTROY THE NEW PUMP!
Installation is in reverse, but when you tighten the tensioner, do not overtighten the belt 1/2 inch flex between the pulleys is good so long as the belt doesn't squeal or make any noise. Tighten the lock nut or bolt, and the other bolts, top the recommended power steering fluid off, cycle the steering wheel full right and full left 30 times to ensure all the air is purged from the system, shut off engine and top off fluid to the recommended level. DO NOT OVERFILL!
Check around your water pump for leaking or seepage. Also inspect your radiator hoses for leaks or cracks. If you find indications of where the leak is coming from, you will need to replace the defective part.
You also need to monitor your fluid level in the radiator. This will give you an indication of how bad the leak is.
That's hard to say without a little more detailed information ! Was the check engine light on ? If so what codes ? There are a lot of reasons for not passing a emission test ! The engine management system is very complex an has several sensors that input voltage info to the engine computer, which in turn controls out put devices . injectors ,purge solenoid , shift solenoids , idle control etc.. No I could say with the information you supplied ! PA EMISSIONS WAIVER