1996 Nissan Quest - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Most relays for most vehicles are in the fuse block in the engine compartment,

that is the knock sensor,and on your motor it is located between the 2 cylinder heads under the intake manifold. I have seen my share of bad ones

Found this on yahoo answers as an existing question. http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20120216162403AAp8ezQ(bottom of engine right side (which is the front near radiator) spin on filter look at the end of the motor with the belts (passenger side)

Great idea

It looks like the wiper/washer amplifier (module) need to be changed, is located on the fordward side of the driver side strut tower.

Did you replace the (Termostat)? If it is stuck shut, Your engine will over heat.

have to check fuse

AMSOIL 5W-30 Signature Series 100% synthetic motor oil or Mobil 1 5W-30 Extended mileage are probably the best 2 synthetics. Depending on the mileage, you might be better off with using a standard 5W-30 non-synthetic oil and just change it regularly.

Sonds like a sensor putting out an error code to shut it down ( like a fatal error code) Prolonged vibrations and heat can make cam sensors, maf, o2 senosr do craz ythings which will actuate a govener and stall your car...could also be you fuel pump causually telling you that "hey im bout to die".I dealership can run a stress test (if you will) to check the longivity of the pump...
Good luck hope this helps :)

Check brake switch, generally is located in top back side of the brake peddal.

Good luck.

If you're ok about messing with the wiring on your vehicle, you can connect the factory disarm wire permanently to a body ground, to disable the factory security. The factory disarm wire is;

Factory Disarm Red/Black (-) Driver's Kick Panel

If the engine won't fire up, but your starter turns over, you may want to check your timing unless you have a check engine light on. If the CEL light is on, have the codes scanned.

If the engine won't turn over with the starter or it clicks, have your battery tested at autozone or advanced auto parts. Replace the battery if it is bad. Else, have your starter tested.

If the engine still won't turn over and the battery and starter are tested fine, you may have a blown fuse, bad ignition switch, or a failed relay.

If the engine fires up but randomly dies and starts back up, you either have a failed sensor, failing fuel pump, clogged fuel filter, bad plugs or wires, or a failing ECU. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

Crossing the lines would not cause a leak. i think you need to take a good look at the lines and see if its the connection to the radiator or a rusted line or bad hose, some of theses came with the trany lines being all rubber hose from ****** to radiator and some were rubber and then change to metal tubing , anyway it doesnt matter which you have but i will bet its leaking from the lines , it may be the line itself or the connection at the radiator, clean the area with some engine cleaner and rinse off then run the engine and watch where the leak comes from, maybe the line just needs tightening. good day.

a can added to a fuel tank of fuel is best ,,

You have to drop the tank to replace the fuel pump. Take the exhaust down and then disconnect the hoses that you can see that go to the fuel Tank. you will need a Trans jacket to get the fuel tank down . As you are lowering it you will be able to get to some of the other hoses.

This has been posted before, diagram photos included...

Follow the link below to another page on this site
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t1883155-install_drive_belts_1996_nissan_quest

I am confidant that you'll find exactly what you're looking for.

Good Luck and Happy Motoring

Respectfully

First you need to make sure the compressor is going on, then you are only suppose to have 30 pounds of pressure on the low side. 50 pounds can cause to much pressure so it will not go on. but the only way to check it is if the compressor is coming on.

One thing you could do is start the car with the hood up watch the temp gauge and when it starts getting hot watch to see if the fan comes on if not it could be the fan motor or a fan switch . Hope this helps

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

go here for help

Replace Fuel Pump for 1997 Nissan Quest

(1) If the fuel tank has more than one third full, you need to get the gasoline out. If it has one third or less full, you can leave it in the tank. However be very careful around the working area. Make sure you have read fire precautions in a general repair book. Take the fuel pump fuse out from the fuse box near the battery. Run starter for a few seconds. This will remove the fuel pressure in the gas lines. Disconnect battery at negative terminal. Jack up the rear of the van.

(2) Remove the fuel tank protector.


(3) Disconnect fuel pipes at the front end of the fuel tank. Use short pencils and extra rubber hoses to block disconnected pipes and hoses.
There are two pipes connected to the gasoline filler at the side of the van. Disconnect only the smaller one. The larger one is flex enough for the tank to be lowered.

(4) Disconnect the electrical from this connector. Jack the rear end of the fuel tank with a car jack and a piece of 2x4. Put the wood between the jack point and the tank. Then unbolt the two bolts showing in the picture.

(5) Lower the jack after the bolts are removed. The rear end of the tank should be lowered.




(6) Disconnect fuel lines on top of the fuel pump. Reconnect each short hose back to different pipes as shown in picture to block the pipes.

(7) Loose the six mounting bolts on the fuel pump assembly. The bolts should be loosen a little at a time in multiple turns. Also detach the electrical wire holders. After all bolts are removed, carefully take the assembly out of the tank.


(8) Remove the fuel pump from the assembly as shown in picture. Then unplug the electrical wires. Note that two connectors are in different sizes, so that you will not be able to reconnect to a wrong terminal.

(9) Put the new pump and new filter in. Reconnect the electrical wires. If necessary use a pair of pliers to make the connectors tighter. Make sure they are not loose. Reconnect gas inlet to the pressure regulator.

(10) Use a new O ring, put back the assembly to the fuel tank. Make sure the float of the fuel level senser is free, and the assembly is at the right orientation (as shown in picture). Screw back the 6 bolts after making sure the O ring is in right place. The bolts should be tightened in turns. Do not over tighten them. Then reconnect the fuel lines and make sure every fastener is tight. Put the electrical wire into holders.

(11) Jack up the tank and put the two mounting bolt in. (see picture in step 4). Make sure they are tightened with specific torque. Reconnect the electrical connector.

(12) Reconnect two fuel lines at the front side of the tank. Refer to the picture in step 2. Reconnect the hose to the gasoline filler. Before you have a try start, double check if all fuel lines are securely connected and tightened.

(13) Start the engine. You need to crank more than a normal start because the lines were empty. The pressure is built up in some time.

(14) If engine starts ok, turn it off. Then check under the van if there is any leakage. If everything is fine put back the tank protector. (picture in step 2).