Top 10 1995 Nissan Pickup Questions & Answers

Found it!! - It is indeed under the dash, directly above the clutch pedal arm and attached to the brake support bracket. The original one was black and NOT round. It's about 1.5 inches long and 1 inch square. The three wires drop down out of the bottom and there is a connector release you have to push to release the wires. The flasher relay itself can slide off the mounting point, with a little extra pressure, pushing towards the left side (outward) of the truck. (left hand drive models).

READING DIAGNOSTIC CODES
The Electronic Control Unit (ECU) monitors several engine sensors and actuators. If a problem occurs the information is stored in the ECU's memory for retrieval.

The codes are displayed by the red diode on the ECU. The codes are interpreted by the number of times and duration the diode flashes.
The red diode will flash for 0.6 of a second with 0.6 of a second delay between flashes "X" number of times, this will represent units of ten.
Then there will be a delay 0.9 of a second and the red diode will flash for 0.3 of a second with 0.3 of a second delay between flashes "X" number of times, this will represent units of one.

There will be a delay of 2.1 seconds between codes.
For example, if the red diode flashes once and then flashes twice rapidly this should be interpreted as code 12. The codes are displayed in numerical order starting with the lowest and ending with the highest.

95–99

1. Turn ignition On.
2. Turn diagnostic mode selector on ECU fully clockwise and wait until inspection lamps flash. Number of flashes displayed indicates corresponding mode.
3. Note number of flashes, then immediately turn diagnostic mode selector fully counterclockwise.
4. If ignition is turned Off during diagnosis, in each mode, and then turned back on again after power to the ECU has dropped off completely, diagnosis will automatically return to Mode I.
5. For description of modes, proceed as follows:
   1. (Mode I): with engine stopped, system in bulb check state. with engine running, system in malfunction warning state.
   2. (Mode II): with engine stopped, system in self diagnostic results state. with engine running, system in front O2S monitor state.

1. Turn ignition Off.
2. Connect ‘‘Consult’’ the data link connector (DLC), located behind fuse box cover.
3. Turn ignition On.
4. Touch ‘‘Start.’’
5. Touch ‘‘Engine.’’
6. Perform each diagnostic test mode according to each service procedure.

1. Turn ignition Off.
2. Connect scan tool’ to its 16-pin DLC, located at lower edge of instrument panel near steering column.
3. Turn ignition On.
4. Enter program according to screen instructions or in operation manual.
5. Perform each diagnostic test mode according to each service procedure.

1. On pre-95 models, MIL stored memory will be erased after selecting Mode III or Mode IV.
2. On 95–99 models, MIL stored memory will be erased by switching from Mode II to Mode I.
3. On all models, MIL stored memory will be erased if battery terminal is disconnected.
4. On 95–97 models, to erase DTCs using Consult, select ERASE in the SELF DIAG RESULTS mode.
5. On 98–99 models, to erase DTCs using Consult, turn Consult On, select A/T, SELF DIAG RESULTS and ERASE. Select BACK, ENGINE, SELF DIAG RESULTS and ERASE.
6. On all models, to erase DTCs using generic scan tool (GST), select mode 4.

This should do it unless you're in California, but I have that on too if you need it.

Fuel injected or carb? Make sure fuel line itself is clear. Some pumps are designed to self regulate (carb systems) some continually pump and a psi regulator sends back the excess fuel back to the tank (fuel inj systems) If the line is obstructed then pump can't deliver fuel fulltime.

If you think pump is not on consistent, try running a dedicated wire through a switch directly to the pump. If it works then you are looking for an electrical fault going to pump. Good luck.

I do not know if you have the 2.4L (4-Cyl) or the 3.0L V6; however I have included both below.

For the 2.4L DOHC In-Line 4-Cylinder:
Firing Order:
1-3-4-2
Cylinders:
(back)
...4
...3
...2
...1
(front)
Distributor:
.....(+)
3..........1
......O.....
4..........2
.....(+)

For the 3.0L V-6
Firing Order:
1-2-3-4-5-6
Cylinders:
....(back)
5.............6
3.............4
1.............2
....(front)
Distributor:
......6
1..........5
2..........4
......3

hitting the breaks to hard just unhook the battery and reset the computer

on the transmission there is a slave cylinder that works like a brake cylinder, when you apply pressure to the clutch pedal a rod inside the vehicle under the dash pushes into a clutch master cylinder, (almost like a brake master cylinder without the reservoir, as the clutch master cylinder works off the brake master cylinders reservoir) the plunger in the clutch master cylinder applies fluid pressure to the slave cylinder,(located down on the trans near the clutch fork assembly) which projects a piston rod into the clutch fork dis-engaging the clutch. To bleed the clutch slave cylinder locate the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder,break loose so it loosens and tightens easily. Check fluid in brake master cylinder reservoir,fill if needed, while bleeder on the slave cyl is closed have a helper push clutch pedal to floor and back 7-8 times, (At first the clutch might stay at the floor, just pull it up by hand or foot and continue) after several pumps with no rest time push pedal to the floor and hold down with foot pressure, at this time loosen the bleeder on slave untill fluid leaks out, watch for air bubbles, close bleeder and repeat untill there is no sign of air bubbles, (make sure to check fluid in the brake master cylinder and keep fill as needed, do not let fluid get less than 1/2 empty as it might **** air and you will have to start over) If this does not bring clutch to operate then you need to check if slave cylinder is reachig its full extension of push rod or not. If it is not then you will have to replace the clutch master cyl or the clutch slave cyl or both as seals are bad and wont hold pressure. Or you need to inspect the clutch fork,the throw-out bearing, or the pressure plate fingers and clutch plate for failure or broken bent parts. I hope it turns out to be a easy fix on that clutching thing.

if it keeps breaking you either have atension or alignment problem. Alignment will show on the edges of the belt and you should be able to catch a bit of burnt rubber smell on the belt. Unless you have done major work orpulled something thatbwould have moved a pulley my bet would be on tension. on a serpintine belt there is atensioning pulley and these do wear out. When the tension is out the belt can slap and break

Here's a link to the timing marks.

i believe you are dealing with OBD-I