20 Most Recent 1992 Nissan 300ZX - Page 4 Questions & Answers

a radiator flush chemical may be a bad idea if the radiator is rusted up inside.drain out as much as you can, fill with distilled water only, then idle the car till it is at full operating temp. then drain the water and do the same thing one more time. after that, fill with your 50-50 mix of antifreeze/water and that will be about as clean as you can safely get it.

For the timing belt or to set the timing for the ignition?

There isn't an Air temp sensor on these cars. There is a mass air flow, which is located under the center nose panel between the two headlights.

There is the ambient temp sensor for the ac/heater. Are you talking about this?

You should check for spark from the distributor. They always go out.

This is actually normal. Your talking about having the cap off with the vehicle running while you look in the reservoir that you pour the fluid into. Correct?

Its tricky but you need to pop the half circle off to get to the 14mm bolt. Then roll the window down and there is a plastic circle at the top of the door frame. Pop that off and remove the one plillips screw and pop the panel off to get to the remaining 2 10mm bolts holding the door panel on.

It's down in the driver's kick panel next to the dead pedal where you rest your left foot. The cover for the fuse panel faces the center of the car.

I don't think I understand how you bypassed the key???? You didn't provide any of those details in your first help request. I don't think it will start when the security light is on. Unitl you are able to provide all the details I don't think I can be of much assistance.

The power steering fluid will aerate (churn and make bubbles) if the power steering fluid is overfull or underfilled.

If the steering is making a binding sensation, causing excess motor drag, then it's probably low.

Just go to auto parts store and buy their recommended fluid. It's about $3/quart usually. Some auto makers require very specific fluid for their cars, but for a Nissan, it should be somewhat standard.

There should be a dipstick that is marked with the proper fluid level on your power steering pump. It'll be marked HOT and COLD, which of course corresponds with when you're checking the fluid. If you haven't driven the car and it's morning time, check the level with COLD. If the car has been driven and is warmed up, then check it against HOT.

The power steering pump is one of the devices that the fan belts operate. Follow all of the belts and note the pullys they run over. One of these devices will have two hoses about 1" in diameter comming out of it. Typically this is also where you fill the fluid when it is low, but not always. If you fill the fluid at a container on the side of the engine compartment, it will have a hosee that runs down to this PS pump as well.
Check for wetness along the lines especially at the terminal end of each line whre they meet the pump and where they meet the power steering box or rack. You may have to get under the car for this. If your car has a steering rack (about 2 feet long and three iN in diameter, look for fluid leaking at either end of the rack You can but rebuilt racks and have them installed by most garages. If that is the case have it done byy a garage that also does front end alignments as some adjustment in this are my be required

Good Luck

Hi, the ECU (engine control unit) is located under the passangers side foot panel (if your sitting on the passanger's side, where the tips of your feet hit). Remove the floormat and there should be an area of the carpet that is partially detachable, being held by velcro. Under the carpet there should be a wooden board which you can take off by removing 4~5 10mm bolts. Once you remove that the ECu will be the brass colored metal box with all the wires pluged into. There are 3 10mm bolts to remove the ECU. Hope that helps. :)

may wanna check the distributor could be outta whack (timing).

check your waste gate and make sure its not dumping into exhaust instead of sending into intake. waste gate is controlled by vaccum so if it is not functioning check to make sure it isnt leaking.

till you feel the bolts stretch ,about 80lbs

electrical problem like anything from a loose wire to ignition module,if its as old as you say 92 then it has an ignition module,where it is on this model i dont know it could be inside the distributor or underneath the coil but iam sure this is the fault as its showing all the classic symptons .Running fine then stop and it resists all attempts to start.Pull middle high tension cable out of middle of distributor and hold to earth then get someone to turn engine over,if no spark then renew the module.

The problem could be in a couple of things. All can be checked fairly easily. First, take all the spark plug wires off the spark plugs and get a spare plug (or old ones that works) and hook it to each wire individually. Hold the wire by the boot (rubber) and touch the plug to the engine block on bare metal and have a helper turn the car over (try to start it). Check how bright the spark is, if it is yellow or orange, it may be weak, if it is blue or white, it is strong. Remember what plug is the weakest (numbered in order from the front of the engine(nearest to the belts as 1) to the back (nearest to the transmission as 4))

You can use this information to tell your mechanic or if you are going to do the work yourself, you'll have a few things to check and replace.

First would be the spark plug wires if you haven't done so already.

Then I believe your car is distributor less so you'll have to locate the magnetos, they are at the other end of the spark plug wires and are usually in pairs on 2 separate blocks.

If at the other end of the wires you find one round looking "crown" with all the wires poking out of the top with one wire in the center going to another part of the engine, then you have a distributor. This could be the problem, if you have one. It could also be the magneto or coil at the end of the center wire.

It is not difficult to replace the distributor cap (crown) but label the wires around the cap and make sure to put them back in the EXACT order they were on originally. Same goes for the wires you took off the plugs.

If you have any more questions, or would like me to elaborate on anything, please leave a comment on this post and I'll try to answer as quickly as possible.

Good luck and don't forget to rate! Thank you.

I have a nissan truck 96 and it is under the seat. but I have worked on maximas and they are below the radio under console. so I would check under seat but more than likely you are going to have to take out console too.

Its a sensor for timing on the cam ends.

the timing belt should be changed every 60,000 miles.
your engine is an interference engine, which means if the timing belt breaks or skips, the valves will hit the pistons.
if your belt broke you will have bent valves. so the heads will need to come off and bent valves replaced.

Did you try rotating the CAS input shaft? Remember that the cams spin at half the speed of the crank, so a full spin of the CAS is actually 720 degrees. It could be that the CAS is 360 degrees out of phase and causing the car not to run properly. Unbolt it and remove it carefully. Rotate the input shaft (the part that mates with the cam) 360 degrees and put it back on, and see if that helps.

Also, just making sure, when you double-checked the cam timing marks, you did verify that in addition to the four cam sprockets being aligned properly, the crank timing mark is also aligned correctly, right?