20 Most Recent 1992 Nissan 300ZX - Page 3 Questions & Answers

try to start the car so you can check witch spark plug is wet with fuel
nissan r notorious for leaky injectors

http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi try here it works for me

its the big black box on the right of the engine bay when you open the bonnet has wiring loom running into it.. some people relocate it to free up space in the engine bay and move it just underneath left hand headlight.. there is also one in the far right of the engine bay at the back if RHD near ABS cruise control etc.. there is also one in the drivers footwell behind the kickpanel

Are you sure the new belt didn't jump time? How was the belt tensioner when you replaced yhe belt? Did your water pump leak onto or into your crank sensor?Are you sure you have proper fuel pressure?When you replaced the timing belt, did you make sure to find top dead center on cylinder 1 ? Just lining up the timing marks may not have worked if this is indeed what you did.If you had the crankshaft rotated 180 degrees, your motor would be trying to fire on the exhaust stroke, instead of the compression stroke. To find T.D.C. disconnect your battery,rotate your crankshaft until the piston that is marked #1 in your firing order is at the top of its stroke, this can be accomplished by carefully inserting a wooden or plastic dowel into the sparkplug hole of cylinder#1. The dowel will rise with the piston and at the point where it starts to fall will be T.D.C. Now your timing marks should line up,and you will then be on the compression stroke. good luck! hope this helps

Try using 2 people , get the person inside to press the pedal and you undo the bleed valve a little, tighten the valve and get them to release the pedal (or pull it up if it is a little stiff) keep going untill no more air is expelled.

You should be able to buy a rebuild kit for the cylinder, I would rebuild the slave and master. just take it off, take the snap ring off and remove the piston, make a note of which direction its facing, the new one may come with a piston with the seal aready installed.The cup will have the flare facing forward. Just put the new seal on/ or piston in and reseat the snap ring. The slave is just as easy. then you want to bleed all the air out. Fill master cylinder and open the slave bleeder screw, just let fluid come out until all the air bubbles quit. that should bleed it. If the pedal dosent feel right, you may need to have another person depress the pedal and then open the bleeder.

It does not run all the time. its thermostatically controlled. When your idling in traffic on a hot day you will hear it kick on and off. after a good drive leave it idling for a few minutes and you will likely see it come on. Not sure about the dash lights??

My first guess would be the voltage regulator (most likely this one is in the alternator) is bad. The voltage produced by the alternator is varying widely causing, as in these two examples, lights to dim when output drops below normal and wipers to run fast when output goes above normal.

Solution would be to get alternator output checked and if alternator fails test, replace it.
A place like autozone can test your alternator, I think, for free.

Charlie

When ws the last time you had your vehicle professionally tuned up? You could be experiencing any one of infinite possible issues. Your problem sounds most like a fuel delivery/mixture issue, but could be anything, including poor wiring/connections. Have a pro look at it!

the labor due to that job its 5.2 hour and the pump cost around 100. the labor cost depends on how many dollars an hour the machanic is going to charge u. and i recommend to do the timing belt service ones at all (if u haven't done it before and if has more then 100,000 mil) cause it will cost u more if u do it in some other time.

look inside the hole in the trans. when the sensor is removed and see if the drive gear is damaged, they are made of plastic.

no it is not.

block off vacuum hose to brake booster and see if idle returns to normal if it does you need new brake booster has hole in diaphram internally some times slight hissing noise is evident in cab when pressing brake pedal to section where engine surges or idles high. also check for fuel leaks from hoses if you can smell fuel in engine bay while running and engine warm some leaks only leak while running and hot

well i am going to tell you that your problem is an easy fix and shouldn't be expensive at all. what it most likely is is that your speedometer cable has a medal rod that goes into your transmission and in most cases it will wear down to where it gets loose and will freely spin and in some cases it will catch but it is most likely the speedometer cable

what colour is the wire

change speedometer sensor

Chane the plugs and HT leads.

U need to pull the shift rails out and check them for wear, chances are they are in need of replacement, if u dn't know how to do this have a trans repair shop do it.