1989 Nissan 240SX - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Have the battery and it's connections checked.

If you've applied 12VDC to the solenoid and it does nothing, not even click, then the solenoid is toast!

Follow the big hose from the top of your radiator to where it is attached to a metal elbow that is bolted to your block. Should be three little bolts. Remove those, and there is your thermostat. If the information is helpful to you please give me your ratings. Thanks

replace it...its on the sending unit inside the fuel tank

Check for clogged air filter, an obstruction or leak in the duct that joins the turbo unit outlet to the intake manifold.An intake manifold gasket leak, a leak or obstruction in the exhaust system or a waste-gate problem. The vacuum line is either blocked or there is vacuum leak .Also get the fuel pump and spark plugs checked.------ ---Also other possibility is compressor surge.The turbo is spooling up too fast and sending too much air into the engine for it to take. You can fix it with a larger A/R exhaust housing. You can also fix it with a surge-ported compressor housing.It is not your blow off valve. But the valve will often open when you get compressor surge since it sends very high boost spikes into the inter-cooler pipes.Compressor surge can damage the turbo bearings, Get it checked.---------- This will help.Keep updated.Thanks.Helpmech.

take cap back off and check if something came loose or out of adjustment

want to sell that car?

check brake sensor at top edge of brake paddle

Usually when rattling only occurs at 0 mph, that rattle comes from a metal component (often in the engine bay) leaning against a part of the vehicle frame. The air filter housing or retaing screw/nut/bolt/clip(s) could be to blame, so make sure that it has been properly secured so that it does not vibrate against the hood, an engine mount or the frame of the vehicle. However, it could be caused by the transmission or an engine component, such as a thrown piston rod. You did not mention any work that was done recently, so I'll just have to exclude relevant possibilities (such as a tool left under the hood). Timing components can definitely cause erratic & severely affected engine performance. Try not to drive this vehicle any more than absolutely necessary. Until you know what the issue is, prepare for the worst-case scenario.

Touchy throttle response could be from pressing on the accelerator when the transmission is out of gear (sometimes transmission anomalies such as low fluid level can result in slower transmission response—possibly allowing the engine to rev without affecting vehicle speed). Then again it could be a faulty throttle position sensor.

Square away the basics: Take the vehicle to a full-service shop for inspection. AAA members have affiliated places that would inspect a vehicle for travel-worthiness. They would check the belts & various other areas & conditions such as coolant, oil, & transmission fluid levels. You need a professional, qualified mechanic to pinpoint this with a physical inspection. If you're not a member of AAA, you can still go to many of the same places. (General rule of thumb: A $25 inspection that leads to a $250 repair still beats a $2,500 engine or transmission replacement from neglecting what could have been fixed.) Note if there are any warning lights showing on the dashboard when driving this vehicle. Tell the mechanic ALL about it! Unexpressed issues are usually the cause of unsatisfactory results. When you need guidance on the inspection's findings, we'll be here. A professional inspection is the best way to handle this scenario.

I'm thinking MAP(Manifold absolute pressure sensor) but a reliable mechanic should be able to scan your ECU and find out for sure.Good Luck.

Cap and rotor could be bad. also the points in the distributor could be bad.

ignition module has just gone ,like they do

By transmission bell housing drivers side under car you will find the slave cylinder/ it will have a bleeder screw . fill the clutch master cylinder. and leave the cap off or very loos ,{with car up on proper jack stands} . open the bleeder until you git no more air coming out. you may have to fill the master a few times to git the air out {don't let it run out of fluid} if you can not git all the air out that way you may need a helper, to pump the pedal and hold it down wile you crack open the blender.be sure to tighten it before helper lets the pedal up. please let us know if this is helpful. feel free to ask should you want any more assistance. Thank You.

CHANGE THE FUEL FILTER

There may be a switch on your dash that allows you to set the headlights to do exactly what you describe so they won't get trapped down by ice/snow in winter. Check to see that this switch is set so the headlights go down when you turn the lights off. If the switch is set correctly, check to make sure that the switch is not faulty.

sounds like a auto box fault to me,,if its doing nothing and wont rev,past,,2000rmp this is about all it should rev at when doing a "stall test" the gear box may be locked up if it is and you keep reving the guts out of you will burn out the gear box up,,,have you tryed jacking up the rear wheel of the car to see if its not the diff that locked up

If the battery is still charged we a leaning towards The ignition switch Failure is a highly probable cause.

Hope this tip helps

r/
david

SOUND LIKE WORN VALVE LIFTER WORN OR PISTON RING BOTH WILL MAKE A TICKING NOISE.DO A COMPRESSION TEST TO SEE IF YOU HAVE DEFECTIVE PISTON RINGS.

Check and replace fuses as necessary.

Sounds like a main relay switch located under the hood. check the relays and fuses.

plz visit this site http://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/9211600-nissan-240sx-1989-1997-service-repair-manual
Good Luck.