1987 Nissan 300ZX - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

any deformation of that control arm is suspect and should be discarded plenty of good units from the wreckers/junk yards

Look for a poor ground connection on the affected bulb socket.

CHECK ALL AUTO PART STORES LIKE AUTO ZONE/ ADVANCE AUTO PARTS / OREILLYS / OR GO TO NISSAN DEALERSHIP IF YOU CANT FIND IT AT THE ANY OF THE LOCAL AUTO PARTS STORES.

The steering wheel mounted switches and the electrical contacts under the wheel are defective.

Should be part of the alternator.

If you are referring the the collector the specs are: Collector cover: 4.3 - 5.8 ft lbs Collector: 13-16 ft lbs You should use a torque wrench that is sensitive at low torques. I bought an "inch pound" torque wrench for delicate items like injectors and just convert the foot pounds to inch pounds.

It's a switch hooked up to the top of the clutch pedal

wiring diagrams.

Dear javatrader: There are very few solutions to this problem. The fact that you had mentioned 5th & Reverse, tells me that you problem is has two possibilities. Both relate to the same component.
The shift fork for Fifth gear and reverse are the same as well as the hub which the fork fits over.
When you Move the stick shift, it moves one of 3 rails in the transmission of which one is 5th and reverse. The hub is what locks the transmission in gear. The gears are what are referred to as synchromesh. This means that when you shift from gear to gear, it makes it possible to easily make the transition without the gears grinding while the car is in motion. The synchros are in fact, kind of a "BRAKE" for the gears so that when you go to shift into that gear, the synchronizing ring, slows the gear down enough to match the speed of the counter gear allowing it to engage with it, without grinding. As the hub slides into gear, there are spring loaded "KEYS" which are small pieces of steel about 1/2 inch long, 1/4 inch thick and 1/4 inch wide with a little hump in them to push up into a small cavity machined into the hub when it slides over it, thus locking the gear into place until you pull the stick to move it out of place. If a key pops out, it could cause the gear to stick, not allowing you to pull the hub back because the key has popped out at an angle which prohibits the hub from sliding over it.
Another possible senario: The fork is secured to the shift rail with a part called a "Roll pin". If this part shears, the car will be stick in what ever gear it was in at the time the pin sheared. If the pin shears, the stick will still move out of 5th gear position but the transmission won't.
This problem, unfortunately is not one a layman can fix. This is best left to a professional.
Good luck......If you are pleased with my answer, please write in, that you are satisfied with my answer. I am new in this "FIXYA" group and need more people responding to work my way up the ranks.

the only place you can get a key code is the dealership. they will need proof of ownership of the car that you need the key for. have registration, drivers license and your vin number of the car.

i have the maintenance and repair manual for 1986 300zx by nissan in pdf format. I fixed my car by myself with tis, very usefull, for free, just give me an email.

i have 1986 300zx shop manual by nissan. All information you will nedd is in the munual. Ican send it to you for free, i have the same car that you. Just give me an email.

Check the fuel system inertial switch (collision cutoff switch), located in the trunk. It should have a reset button. Push it. If that does not work, try BYPASSING the switch to see if the pump works then. If it does, replace the switch.

There is an emergency fuel pump safety shutoff in case of an accident that will automatically shut fuel pump off so fuel does not keep pumping out at the scene of a crash. The reset button is usually in the trunk depending on what vehicle you have. Your manual will identify location for you.

need new ignition switch.Here's how to replace. Repair Guides Steering Ignition Switch AutoZone com

Clean all connections and make sure they are sound on both the battery and alternator. Electricity does not like to flow properly through dirty and poor connections. If your alternator is not pushing charge at over +13V(sometimes over 14V, all depends) when the engine is running, then it is faulty. Take it back to where you bought it from and exchange for another. If the alternator is fine whilst running and the battery shows 9V when the engine is stopped, then your battery is not holding the charge and is faulty. Take it back, same as if the alternator were faulty. By rights, all things being equal, once started, your engine should run without the battery being connected at all, if your alternator is operating correctly. Your battery is only a storage device to initiate engine ignition. They are rated by CCA, which is simply crank power to turn the engine over and start.

have you checked the plug wires ?

check the door frame rubbers. and the glass goes up full into the frame.

ok this is clutch they don't have flywheel. and is a pain to drop transmission to break from engine. but the main clutch needs replacing.

It's possible the fuel filter is clogged up. If it has been a while since you changed the fuel filter, it may need to be changed. It is either located in the tank or between the tank and carbeurator. You may also have gotten bad gas or water in the gas. Check this also.