1986 Nissan 300ZX - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

So my Nissans vacuum lines have been deleted, and it has a cool air intake installed, but it seems to die on me when I start it unless I give it some gas... makes the idle like an earthquake, the hose for the intake manifold (sucks in air , above the carborator) has nothing connected and I'm lost on how to figure where my car needs air and where it needs to be sealed? Could you help??

Are you sure you have the correct gearing for the differential? It appears there is alot of torque being applied and it is causing the spindles to shift. Check your springs also.

check for fuel compression, gas filter and try, a gas treatment, you buy it at auto zone the gas treatment is suppose to clean the jets . if you think is a valve issue then you should give it a compression test I would use the type gauge that screws to the piston hole and check each piston for compression. good luck.

Sounds like computer issues from the cables being on wrong

-Possibly the main fuse or possibly there is a relay for all of those circuits. Check it out. Good luck Mai

A fuse in the fuse box may be loose.

check for a blocked cat converter could be a problem EGR valve

Check intake manifold gasket for leaks. Do It Yourself Diagnosis and Repair

if you are running an amp, you need a much thicker positive wire coming directly from the battery, i pushed through the clutch linkage grommet on my 85 300zx

Tap into the ignition switch and run power to the radio.

if I remember when you unplug these and the car starts the MAF is bad and the computer goes into backup mode.

I suggest disconnecting the mass airflow sensor and see if the car idles. If the car starts then you have a bad sensor. The next step would be to inspect data on scantool and look for scewed coolant sensor reading . coolant sensor readings should not fluctuat. Good luck I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/richard_9a19ee73dfa4686a

You should be able to do this without taking anything off. There is and tensioner/idler wheel that can be loosened on the belt line by the alternator. One bolt will loosen it to a point that you can remove the belt. Pay attention to how it runs. There will also be a belt diagram on a sticker under your hood. Remove, replace and retighten the idler wheel ( I use a crow bar or long piece of pipe to apply pressure) You will see what I mean when you get to this point. Tighten the idler back down and you are done.

Probably best to install whole new circuit, such as from ignition switch ON position (or straight from battery if you want it always hot) thru fuse of amps you think yu will need and then to lighter.

Wont b perfect w out a computr...carb is just aproxamit

Since you are a DIYer, I highly recommend you invest in a repair manual from your favorite parts store, or barrow from library, or try filepeep.com if they have it, or manualslib.com DIY auto salvage yards have an interchange terminal. You can search Ebay for the replacement part and it will show all models the part will fit. Backfire, Timeing some where. Either spark system or more likely Valve. Or the Air mass meter is bad. I had a bad one and it ran terrible.

I have little experience of the European spec car but I am guessing that it doesn't have a power transistor type of ignition but either a separate ignition module offering variable dwell angle and a low quiescent current or a module built into the management ECU. If it is a module or amplifier type it is likely to be sited fairly close to the coil.

a oil gauge reading maybe delayed until car starts and builds good oil press.Did you check for sparkwas car running good before this happened? Do you have a rpm reading when cranking car?

Dashboard

Diagram.