Top 20 1986 Nissan 300ZX Questions & Answers

check for fuel compression, gas filter and try, a gas treatment, you buy it at auto zone the gas treatment is suppose to clean the jets . if you think is a valve issue then you should give it a compression test I would use the type gauge that screws to the piston hole and check each piston for compression. good luck.

Are you sure you have the correct gearing for the differential? It appears there is alot of torque being applied and it is causing the spindles to shift. Check your springs also.

Sounds like computer issues from the cables being on wrong

-Possibly the main fuse or possibly there is a relay for all of those circuits. Check it out. Good luck Mai

A fuse in the fuse box may be loose.

check for a blocked cat converter could be a problem EGR valve

Check intake manifold gasket for leaks. Do It Yourself Diagnosis and Repair

if you are running an amp, you need a much thicker positive wire coming directly from the battery, i pushed through the clutch linkage grommet on my 85 300zx

Tap into the ignition switch and run power to the radio.

if I remember when you unplug these and the car starts the MAF is bad and the computer goes into backup mode.

I suggest disconnecting the mass airflow sensor and see if the car idles. If the car starts then you have a bad sensor. The next step would be to inspect data on scantool and look for scewed coolant sensor reading . coolant sensor readings should not fluctuat. Good luck I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/richard_9a19ee73dfa4686a

You should be able to do this without taking anything off. There is and tensioner/idler wheel that can be loosened on the belt line by the alternator. One bolt will loosen it to a point that you can remove the belt. Pay attention to how it runs. There will also be a belt diagram on a sticker under your hood. Remove, replace and retighten the idler wheel ( I use a crow bar or long piece of pipe to apply pressure) You will see what I mean when you get to this point. Tighten the idler back down and you are done.

Wont b perfect w out a computr...carb is just aproxamit

I have little experience of the European spec car but I am guessing that it doesn't have a power transistor type of ignition but either a separate ignition module offering variable dwell angle and a low quiescent current or a module built into the management ECU. If it is a module or amplifier type it is likely to be sited fairly close to the coil.

Diagram.

Probably best to install whole new circuit, such as from ignition switch ON position (or straight from battery if you want it always hot) thru fuse of amps you think yu will need and then to lighter.

Since you are a DIYer, I highly recommend you invest in a repair manual from your favorite parts store, or barrow from library, or try filepeep.com if they have it, or manualslib.com DIY auto salvage yards have an interchange terminal. You can search Ebay for the replacement part and it will show all models the part will fit. Backfire, Timeing some where. Either spark system or more likely Valve. Or the Air mass meter is bad. I had a bad one and it ran terrible.

try jumpin power to your fan an see if it even works. i would then run car to see if u have power coming to the fan from your fuses an relays. they should be marked on fuse box covers.... need to start here first

There are 4 bolts which retain the seat in place. The ones in the front, the seat bracket are bent in an L shape, so you reach them by takeing a 14mm socket, short extension and ratchet and to the outer side if the seat running from front to back, you will see the bolt on the left and one on the right,.Bring the seat all the way back to make ot easy to reach and then you can remove them. Now slide the seat all the way to the front. Most ofen there is a plastic cover over each bolt. Carefully pry one side off and the cover will come off. Below the covers are two more 14mm bolts When you remove them, position the seat as forward as you can to make access easy to the bolts. the seat is loose from the car. NOTE: I got a head of my self. The rear bolts should bee removed first then remove the front bolts are removed. Additionally, Position the seat in a semi reclined position so that it will be easy to take out of the car. If these are electric, there will be connectors under the seat which must be disconnected. In the middle of the connecter where they plug in, there should be a little lever looking part on the center of the outside connector which you must depress while pulling the connectors apart I hope I haven't been too confusing. I have Parknison's disease and although I am a Nissan Master tech, the disease can sometimes affect my thought train. I have read and reread what I have written to you and am satisfied that it shouldn't be confusing and you'll be able to get the seat out just fine. Good luck

It's possible the fingers on the clutch plate are worn so bad that they grab the throw out bearing not allowing it to return to it's proper position. You may need to replace your entire clutch and bearing. It would be a good time to replace the input shaft bushing in the flywheel at the same time too.