1985 Nissan 300ZX - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

need timing carks for citron j25 1987

the throttle position is bolted on to your throttle body, you should check your air flow meter also, the ecu, located behind the passenger kick panel, has a self diognastic mode with all the code definitions listed on the ecu, if i remember correctly turn the key on , dont let starter engage, pusk gas pedal to floor, release, then the ecu will bling red and green, two red blinks and one green means code 21 and so on

Check wires for short to ground .

check brake switch under dash above the brake pedal. See if sensing wires are broken . or if it uses a duplicate switch sensor check it is engaging properly. Also check you tube on possible failures. Also in the engine bay the cable from the accelerator petal will attach to the trottle on the engine. Check for another cable at this location from the cruise control and check the cable is not broken . Check brake globes are functioning and are not blown as well.

the ecu is on the passenger side behind the kick panel, there is instructions on how to do a self diagnosis and code definitions listed on the ecu

When you switch the ignition wont start or crank, right? but did you hear a tikiting sound? if you do then the problem was your starter, either the solenoid in your starter was faulty or the starter itself might be grounder or shorted.Replace the solenoid if deffective or starter but before you do that check your battery.Next is to check your electrical line from the ignition to the starter and also from your battery going to the starter, if there is a connectivity it means your line is good.Next you said it has to be push to start and run but when you shut it off it wont start? It means your alternator was not charging properly, so it was deffective, the battery lost its power. replace or repair your alternator.Hope this will help you, good luck!!!

Go to nissanpartpartsdeal.com Enter your VIN from your car registration. Go to Engine Electrical. Go to Engine Control Module. It will bring up the parts schematic with the part number for your car. That should tell you what you need to know.

You have a lot going on here , let's clarify a little ! The engine cranks over when you turn the key ? You sure have been busy replacing parts ! If it cranks over did you check for spark at the spark plugs ? An did you test for fuel pressure ? an does it have compression ? No Start Diagnostic Basics EricTheCarGuy

it's most likely the climate control. download manual diyservicemanuals.com/nissan-300zx-service-repair-manuals/

If very little air comes from the vents, the fan on the blower motor may be damaged, or there may be a restriction in the vents, or a blend door may not be open completely.

Remove rotor button and points are underneath. Usually capacitor is what fails and prevents starting. It is also located with the points. Replace both (cheap!) and adjust points and you may have a fix. If not, check are you getting fuel delivery? Do you have spark at the plugs?

Most likely your starter is bad, Take it in to any part store and they can test it for free. Also make sure the wires on the starter are tight

Check your fuses. You probably just blew a fuse. Worst case scenario would be your ECU is burned out, which is highly likely if the fuse didn't blow quick enough. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

I.C.V hose has a leak I just had this issue it is a impossible to find part I used a 3/4" 19mm 2 foot heater hose. I ran it from the I.C.V under the intake then back over it don't look the best but fixes it for under $3

Don't do it! Special aiming equipment is necessary to avoid misaligned headlights. Take it to your local Nissan dealer to get it done.

Under the dash (I'm asuming you have s digital dash), if you look under there close to where the console ends, you will see a kind of goldish colored box about 4 inch or so square (I think it's square, I haven't worked on one in a long time with that problem) There should be another box to the left of that, I am only giving you a reference point so you know you are in the correct area. Anyway, the smaller box is the power supply to the digitsl dash. If that goes bad, the dash won't light up. The symptoms typically are that part of the dash may work for a little while and then the whole thing goes out. All you can do is replace it. They are hard to find in a salvage yard and then you are takeing a chance.I hope I have answered your question. I'm sure I have solvdd some problems out there for a few people.

On a 280 ZX, one side of the injector elecrtical feed is hot all the time. Pull an injector lead off. Usially #6 is the easiest one to get to. Get a test light and touch one of the electrical connectors in the plug. One of them should light the test light. Or if you have a voltage meter, set it to 20 volts, ground the black lead and touch each terminal in the connector. You should have battery voltage on one of the connector pins.. The computer makes and breaks the grounds on all the injectors, pulsing them all each time a signal is sent to open and close them. The injectors pulse at the same time they are not sequential.The ground for the injectors is a black wire, most of the time it is just one larger diameter black wire which goes back into the engine harness.There are some harrnessess with a cluster of black wires akk joined together using 1 connector This connector(s)wire is bolted to the top of the intake manifold usually coming out of the same wire harness which carries the injector harness plugs, the coolant temp sensor for the engine gauge, from 1979 and later they used cylinder head temp sensors which do not get exposed to the coolant. (I mentioned that because had told someone with a 300Z about makeing sure of cleaning the coolant temp sensor terminals and plug for a good connection. I gave him the right connection, however if he diagnoses the sensor as bad, when he removes the old one, nothing will come out of the hole.) The 300Z's use dry sensors as well. The ZX'S sentsors are locaed near the back of the cylinder head, I think just below the #5 or #4 cylinder, just before it reaches the block. The 300Z's sensor is located at the front of the engine below the thermostat housing. You have to look closely to your right if you are faceing the motor and it is almost in the valley. .Checking for an injector pulse if you don't have a noid light. if you have a long screw driver or other thin but solid object about two feet long, have a friend with you. Put the small hopefully the size of a screw driver tip, on the top of the injector, put your ear to the other end and have your frienf crank the engine and listen for a clicking sound. You can check all your injectors that way. (I have Parkinson's disease, so I may be redundant on things, push enter before I have a chance to proof read things. I'm in my 60'svery experienced , especially when it comes to DATSUN and Nissan (one of the same) I am a certified Nissan Master Technition which allows me to pass along my years of expearence. I do have a lot of technical data,some going back into the late 60's The later technical data I have stored in one of my external hard drives. A lot of questions I could answer of I can access the hard drive(it's Hmmmm I drifted of the subject! Your problem.You see, I just looked at the top of my screen and rolled it further up and here I was thinking Ieas answering a question on a 280ZX when in fact your's is a 300Z! For the most part the principals are the same. Pull the coil wireoit of the center of the distributor, with a friend helping you, hold the wire close to a bare metal object and heve tour friend crank the engine. Look for a spark. If you don't get a spark, chances are, your injectors aren't going to pulse either. No ignition, no fuel injection operation. If the distributor doesn't turn, the injectors won't pulse. Computers do fail, but I don't run into many 300's which the computer's have failed on. I race 300Z's and through raceing, I have done a lot of experimentation with computers which will work to the extentt where my car will start and run. Even though my race car is an automatic, I can plug a computer into the race car from and automatic and it will run. I won't use it for raceing, but I have a cabnet with used Nissan computers, relays and other components will usee , for testing and will try what ever spart we have which is a known good one, to see if it resolves the problem if we haven't found it another way. Any computer from a 6 cylinder 300Z from 84-86, if the plugs match, I haven't tried any computer's from later models past 86, because I haven't had the need to try,should alloww the car to start and run. most of the circuitry is the same. If your car starts, you know for sure it's the computer. There is also a main relay, an injector relay if memory serves me right which is located on the right inner fender. along with headlight relays. All are located in a black box which you can remove the cover on.. On top of the box cover, it shows the relay locations.inside the box. OH, in the test where you are looking for spark in listening for ijnectors clicking, if you hav gone through all of that,know you have allth blackwires from the wire harness nad you do'nt have a clicking, it's probably the computer. In our trade we have a saying to the newbe's KISS! KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID! In my shop, I get more cars when they have been tampered with by their owner's and the owner he's thrown a $1,000 plus into trying to fix his car.I love the ones where ,before the car has made it off the flatbed,I open the hood, spot the problem and have it running before it is unhooked by the driver of the truck.Wow did I get off track. Maybe I did help you or help a few who have read my rattling on. "there are a lot of it could be's, but do your basic homework before getting into the more complex and sometimes expensive tests. If you need a computer, often you can buy them from a salvage yard with a warranty. good luck

If the timing belt is immediately slipping off when you attempt to start the vehicle, that means that there is a camshaft problem, most likely the shaft bearings or clogged oil channels. If the belt stays on for a time then slips off, that means that the belt may be distorted, deformed, or otherwise defective.

hi crank sensor or timing cheers

sounds like a voltage issue.
I would have the altenator tested and also at the same time have the battery tested.

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