20 Most Recent 1985 Nissan 300ZX - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Hi

Thanks for using FixYa. I would check your door jam switches starting with the drivers door. If the switch is bad the vehicle thinks the door is never shut. Remove the switch and put a temporary jumper wire across the two terminals, if the light goes off that is your problem. Also check if the door grounded switch is properly grounded with car’s chassis. This should be grounded or else it won’t start. If this doesn’t resolves then check connections with the alarm module or a short in the alarm system. The alarm is activated also when the trunk key or the drivers door lock cylinder switch.
After you have checked all this the flashing will be removed & you’ll be able to start the car, if not then unplug the hazard fuse in the engine bay (this will reset the ECU and remove the flashing)


If you are unable to troubleshoot the issue then please get the car checked for trouble codes, it will tell you where the issue exactly is.

Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

check the timing belt see if it jumped time or broke you can also tell but pulling distributor cap and see if rotor turns when engine cranks!!!

go to the link and follow the color coded picture diagram to reattach wires

http://autorepair.about.com/library/firing_orders/bl-fo-13319.htm

Follow brake pedal arm up under dash, it should be there and arm pushes against it when pedal released. Not too bad to do, just getting there is the fun part.

Try drivers side in rear hatch, ahead of wheel well area, behind trim panel.

That's the dummy light for the radiator or cooling system. If it comes on during normal running operation, it's indicating that the coolant is low or hot, and likely overheated already.

Here is a photo:

If it is knocking sounds like you may have broke a piston rod. I would not drive it because its cheaper to have it fixed now if you keep driving it the rod will most likelt come thru the block then your looking at replacing the whole engine. Good luck

im guessing the antenna has been replaced and wires were mixed up. take the rear panel off in the trunk to give access to the antenna motor and look at the wiring there should be 2 small wires and one larger black wire. the black wire is the reception wire the other two are the power wires. switch the positions on the two power wires. say wire A is in plug 1 and wire B is in plug 2. final position should be A in 2 and B in 1. that should take care of it. good luck

how old is the fuel filter? and have you checked fuel press at idle and while driving ? and does the car have a cat on it ? you can get car at operating temp and check the temp of inlet and the out let is it over 100 degrees difference? and the mass air you put on is a new oem ?

you first check if the catylist converter is not clogged if not check for fuel pressure

You need to check for power at the motor when you try to activate the switch. If there's power then you have a drive cable issue. If this is a manual seat then the problem is the actuator assembly itself,the cable,mechanism,etc. Remove the seat & take a good look at it. You'll see a problem,write back.

Howdy. I used to have one of these cars and I loved it with a passion, and spent much time tinkering with things I ought not to have. I hope I can help you.
The first thing you will want to do is pop the hood and look at your throttle body. There should be 2 cables attached to the passenger side if I remember correctly. The outside should be connected to your accelerator pedal, the other will be your cruise control. Trace the inside cable to your cruise control assembly on the passenger side and you will find a fairly straight forward cruise control assembly. The most likely problem is that one of your vacuum lines is cracked/snapped or that your linkage to your cruise control is broken. Hope this helps.

I had the exact same problem with my '85 300ZX. Turned out to be a vacuum hose under the dash that had come loose. I noticed that others were brittle and would soon probably crack, so I replaced them all. There is some good info at http://www.thumper300zx.com/z31/vacuum/vacuum.htm

you might have a leak on to your engine and its burning off, that is where the smell is coming from, turn on your car and check for leaks.

if the alternator still does not charge the battery then you probably are looking at a bad battery. Also the cables could be bad, bad voltage regulator, loose belt, or the ignition exciter wire is faulty/loose/disconnected.

verifica la precion de gasolina es el regulador de precion.

follow the upper radiator hose to the engine.the theostat is under the hub where the upper hose attached on the engine.

You need to Check the Fuel Pump and Change the Fuel Filter.

i would look to the ignition coil leave it running and if it gets hot it could be the problem also there is a resistor underneath the coil same thing with that hope this helps regards Jim