20 Most Recent 2001 Chevrolet Malibu - Page 8 Questions & Answers

1.Open the door to your service panel and examine it with a flashlight to identify the blown fuse. 2.For light and receptacle circuits, look for a break or blackened area visible through the glass of a screw-in plug fuse. 3.Screw in a new plug fuse, or install a new cartridge fuse in the fuse block and press the block back in. 4.More often than not the problem with cartridge fuses is related to loose clips or rivets in the fuse block or fuse box, not the fuse itself. Info from: http://www.xcardiag.com/

Have the starter pulled and tested for functionality. The contacts may be dirty, damaged, or loose. This can be checked outside of the car.

follow the hose from the radiator to the housing and inside the part the hose conects to will be the thermostate just be sure you pay attention to how it went in, if you live somewhere warm you dont even need it in there, it just helps heat the car before opening and flowing to the heater core to give the interior heat. usually its the upper radiator hose that you follow, good luck if you need a more specific guide i can look it up in mitchelondemand5 for you, thanks and pass the blue please ; )
Erik
ez automotive/U.S. Army

Same thing happened in my 03 Malibu-called Triple A. Before she sent anyone out, she told me to put the car in Neutral and try to start it-sure enough-and I was good to go. Try it maybe it will work. On my own, another freak thing, it wouldn't crank, pushed up on gear shift to make sure it was in park-I heard something click and it started. Sometimes it's the simplest. good luck.

If it was a freeze plug, it would keep leaking with the engine off. You are going to have to move stuff around, is there a hose outlet down there? Some GM engines had a plastic fitting screwed into the block for a bypass hose fitting. I found one that had broken off flush with the block. It might help if you register for free at autozone.com. You can list your vehicle information, then look for anything to do with the coolant system. A Haynes manual would almost certainly have a good description. + Good luck.

Diagnostib Test Code (DTC) P0440 is defined by SAE J2012 simply as "Evaporative Emission System".This code is what I call a "catch-all" code for the evap system. This is the code that sets when all the other EVAP codes do not apply and there is a malfunction detected in the EVAP system.It is not really hard to diagnose this code if you have the correct equipment and understand how the EVAP system operates.How DTC P0440 sets: The system is tested when there are no electrical problems with the Purge Control Solenoid Valve (PCSV) or Canister Vent Solenoid Valve (CVSV) circuits and the Fuel Tank Pressure (FTP) sensor voltage is within the operating parameters. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) commands the CVSV to close and the PCSV to open and apply vacuum. It then looks for a change in the FTP voltage to indicate that there is a vacuum being drawn on the fuel tank. If there is no change, DTC P0440 sets.If there is a change in FTP voltage, the PCM draws the vacuum to a predetermined set point and closes the PCSV (leaving the CVSV also closed) and looks for decay in the vacuum in the tank as evidenced by the FTP voltage. If the predetermined set point cannot be reached, DTC P0440 sets. If the set point is reached and the decay is faster than allowed over a predetermined time period, DTC P0440 sets.It should also be noted that the monitor for this code is a "type B" DTC, meaning that it must fail on two successive drive cycles before it will turn the check engine light on. So, if it fails on the current drive cycle, then the conditions for running the monitor are not met on the next drive cycle, the code will not set on the second or third drive cycles. All conditions must be met and the monitor must fail two drive cycles in a row. This explains why it may take a week or two before the check engine light comes back on.This code is very easy to diagnose using a scan tool that is capable of performing "purge and seal" tests and graphing the FTP voltage over time. The technician can actually "see" the vacuum being drawn on the fuel tank and the vacuum decay by doing it this way. Repairs can be verified this way without having to drive the vehicle several times to get the EVAP monitor to run.By running the evap purge/seal function on the scan tool and using hose clamping pliers, different parts of the system can be checked by clamping off the hoses that connect the components and watching the FTP voltage graph. If there is no change in the FTP voltage when the system is commanded to purge, a vaccum gauge should be used to verify that the purge solenoid is actually working and that vacuum is being applied to the rear of the vehicle There could be leaks in the line between the purge solenoid and the canister. For an example of how this works: Possible rust holes in the filler neck and/or a defective fuel cap can be determined if there is no change in the FTP sensor voltage or rapid decay upon the initial test that goes away when the filler tube hose is clamped off between the filler tube and the fuel tank. A sticking CVSV can be determined in the same fashion by clamping off the hose between the charcoal canister and the CVSV. Holes in the hoses themselves can also be diagnosed the same way by disconnecting them from the vacuum source end and plugging the source tube. Example, remove the vent hose from the canister and plug the hole in the canister. If the problem goes away, it is either the hose leaking or the CVSV leaking. So, reconnecting the hose to the canister and disconnecting it from the CVSV and plugging the end of the hose will tell you if it is the hose or a sticking CVSV.This may sound really involved, but it is very easy to diagnose this way once you know how.

Hi Crystal, You will need to know if the crank shaft pulley is coming apart or missing the lock down nut. The ring on the outer edge of the pulley is held in place by molded rubber, I would think this will be your problem.

If it were a leaking heater core, the inside glass surface would have an oily film along with the fog. It sounds like your fresh air intake is not working. You have to get fresh air from the outside to be able to get rid of the excess moisture inside the cabin. Or you have excessive moisture inside from a water leak that the system can't overcome.

with a socket on air impact wrench or with socket on breakabar. put in a first gear.if auto put in park.tighten with hand power should be enough.

What was the picture of? The question is just a little confusing.

My first guess is the cooling system is low on liquid coolant. That would cause both symptoms. The radiator can be low even if the overflow tank is full. The cooling system can have air pockets.

run the fault codes to find out the problems . Installing a cam/ crank sensor is part of the problem . You have to check the air gap and the tightness of the rotor . check for dirt and other items that may be between the sensor and the rotor.

the ignition coil controls injection pules most likely your problem this is located under the coils which is where the plug wires connect to have it scanned to make sure