Question edited for clarity.
Question moved to model category.
Yes there are three o2 sensors
Bank 1 in the exhaust manifold
Bank 2 in the exhaust manifold
One after the Catalytic Converter.
Not sure what you mean 'where is the best place to put it'? The scan tool tells you which one needs replacing by a P**** Code, or are you just replacing one for fun?
Answered here on JustAnswer dot com
The o2 sensors are located in the exhaust pipe. The one you are looking for is the post cat sensor. The sensor furthest back in the pipe after the catalytic converter.
Mar 19, 2007
Chevrolet S10 Pickup Truck Car Stereo Wiring Diagram
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Orange
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Brown
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 4? x 6?
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: Dash
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 4? x 10?
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: Rear Corners
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue
and also
wire from the ignition switch to the coils , ignition module faulty not providing current when in the start position
probably a wire pulled off during all of your work
The best solution you'll get from books at www.reliable-store.com
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Maybe it's your bleeding sequence.
1. Ensure all the bleeder valves are closed and wipe all fluid from your fittings.
2. Fill the master cylinder reservoir and have a helper keep pressure on the brake pedal. Pump it 5 times till there is some pressure, then hold. Tell them to tell you when it hits the floor.
3. Open the right rear bleeder valve while your helper maintains pressure. Close the valve when the pedal reaches the floor. Repeat until clear fluid with no bubbles comes out of the valve.
4. Repeat sequence for left rear, then right front, then finally left front.
Wipe all fittings and valves at the wheels and the master cylinder. Look at fitting on your ABS module to ensure they are tight and dry.
Pump the pedal and recheck your fittings to ensure they are still dry. A leak will kill you.
Anyway, that's how I do it. A note about ABS...ignore it while bleeding, it does not affect the procedure.
It could be a bad cable going to it. Check under the battery tray and see if that cable and actuator is operating properly. Could also be a bad encoder motor.
No biggie Brother. Just the neutral safety switch needs be adjusted better. I've the same problem with my Ranger and I plan on just connecting the two wires together at the neutral safety switch. Then it will crank every time, no matter what gear it's in. but it's only natural to have it park when stopped anyway, so I see no problem in just jumping the 2 wires together to have the circuit always complete. It won't hurt a thing.
Hi IM AL the owner of Big As Auto Repair
The cycling switch is what keeps the system from freezing up and comes in different forms for instance. Some vehicles is located inside the a/c housing close to or pushed inside the evaporator, on other vehicles it's the low pressure switch. NO, you do not have to much Freon because if you did the high side pressure would go well past 350 to 400 psi. I would google how to change the cycling switch on your vehicle and watch the video. Hope this helps and have an awesome day. AL with Big A's Auto Repair.
http://www.bigasautorepair.com/
Ignition switch maybe , GM has problems with switch . Test it ! Do you know how to do automotive electrical testing ? Test main powers to the ignition switch . Back probe the B+ power wires Both are red at the ignition switch ! They get B+ from IGN A & IGN C fuse's in the under hood fuse/ relay box ! One is 40 amp , the other is 20 amp .
This problem your having you say happens when you turn the key , correct ? Turn the key to ? ON - START ? or doesn't matter ? The ignition switch supply's B+ voltage to all the things your losing power to.
a Chiltons Manual should have the wire colors of what goes where, match the color with the wires going to the pins If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_4c166ba81493f541
If you take coil wire loose from distributor cap and hold close to engine ground, engine cranking, does a spark jump? If it does, make sure rotor turns when you crank it. The pink wire at the coil goes hot with key on, that is primary voltage, use a test light, is it hot? That voltage comes from ecm fuse1--15 amp, check voltage with key on.
If sensor issue, my first thought would be the crank sensor. Just my opinion.
Check the TCCM. It is located behind the passenger kick panel. A poor design caused water to leak onto the wiring. If there is evidence of water damage, remove the wiring harness, and dry it with a blow dryer.
One thing to check is your battery post connections, or any damage to the cables themselves. Check that the ground wire from the battery is connected well to whatever it is bolted to. Even with a good battery a poor connection will do what you are describing. Clean them good and have them bolted on properly. If that is not it, then get the starter changed....banging on it is not always going to get it to work....I do suspect it is a current delivery problem or the starter itself.
There can be many reasons for this - check for error codes (DTCs) with a code scanner. If here are any, they can help you determine the problem. On of the more common causes of this is a problem with the actuator/solenoid which actually controls the 4WD lockup.
