20 Most Recent 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

there are turbine speed sensors that are located in the area you mentioned if they are faulty ,the TCM has difficulty in correctly changing gears

An electrical part is gittn hot from wear. Inspect ignition components like distcap,coil etc. May need to scan to target

see video below for a 03 silverado, should be similar http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=VIDEO+HOW+REMOVE+FRONT+WHEEL+BEARING++1997+silverado&FORM=VIRE4#view=detail&mid=6D3B44D4406CDC0B2D7D6D3B44D4406CDC0B2D7D http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=VIDEO+HOW+REMOVE+FRONT+WHEEL+BEARING++1997+silverado&FORM=VIRE4#view=detail&mid=6D3B44D4406CDC0B2D7D6D3B44D4406CDC0B2D7D

Whats the mileage ? May need distributor rebuild .

There isn't one. It is a piston in the valve body. It is spring loaded. PCM monitors it threw the Pressure control sensor on the bottom of the valve body. Pull the pan and drain the fluid in a clean container. Check the magnet and fluid for metal flakes. Metal flakes in the fluid, you have other problems. If there isn't metal, check wires first then replace the sensor. The sensor is about 4 inches long and 2 inches wide. 5 bolts hold it on. 2 short ones, 3 long ones. one electrical plug.

ok hello guys i hope someone can help i have a 1990 chevy 1500 with a 5.7 engine it runs like new but on the road like crap .when you have it on the road for about 15 to 20 min it starts to bog like it is loosing power i have replaced t b i , knock sensor plugs cap rotor module egr , and everything that i have read on you tube i am almost ready to let it burn if you know what i mean i have had my friend put it on a machine the 4 codes 22, 42 , 43 , and 34 i have replaced everything that go,s with these codes also replaced the brain please someone help me

Here's a link to your code, P0174 OBD II Trouble Code

that meens there is a misfire on cylinder number 4

you are going to need a new motor

It could be a faulty fuel injector, try running a fuel injector cleaner through your fuel system. At worst the poppet nozzle has gone bad and will need to be replaced, you can buy the poppet nozzle it self individually at Auto Zone or buy upgrade MFI system which is much better and less pron to fuel leaking room a cracked poppet line or nozzle which will cause what you have described.

try changeing the relay switch loacated on drivers side under hood in fuse box from [email protected] hope that works for you

cut bolts off underneath

You need to remove the e-clip from the fitting holding the line/s in place. A small hook type tool will grab the clip and remove it

fuse box OR on steering colunm.

Nearly 100% sure that you have a failed gasket in your transmission, causing the transmission pump to suck air instead of transmission fluid. CHECK YOUR TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL, and consider having a standard transmission service performed as soon as possible (fluid and filter change). Also, if you have recently had a transmission service done, they left out a small gasket (I've had that happen before).

new metal is the best repair, then use bondo to cover seams, all rust must be cut away.

When it's cold outside, the oil inside the engine is just as cold. My 99 Silverado does not like starting when the temp gets below 10 degrees any more than I like going out in that temp and starting it. I have the engine block heater in my truck and I ALWAYS plug it in the evening before I know I'm going to use it. I also run Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 5W30 oil in it. 5W30 is a very light oil that will resist cold weather thickening sufficiently enough that it will start flowing immediately after starting. I know some people think that a heavier oil should be used in the winter, but that is absolutely wrong thinking. USE THE LIGHTEST OIL YOUR OWNERS MANUAL RECOMMENDS IN WINTER!!!!!!!!! Most modern vehicles owners manuals recommend 5W30 used year-round as the recommended oil, but 10W30 may be used if the temp will be above 0 degrees for the majority of the next oil service life. However, the most modern vehicles, i.e. those built since 2008 may require 5W30 only, or 5W20 as well. CHECK YOUR OWNERS MANUAL FOR THE PROPER OIL WEIGHT FOR YOUR VEHICLE!!!!!!! Some vehicles even go so far as to REQUIRE synthetic oil. Any 2011 or newer GM vehicle MUST use synthetic oil that has Dexos on the label. At this time, only synthetic oils have the Dexos rating in them. If your vehicle calls for using only 0W20, then only synthetic oils are made to 0W20 specs. DO NOT USE ANY WEIGHT OF OIL YOUR ENGINE IS NOT RATED TO USE!!!!! Just forget about 10W40 or 20W50. Your dealership will just look at you and tell you your broken engine no longer is covered by the manufacturers warranty if you use an unapproved oil for your engine. Again, check your owners manual for the recommended oil weight for your vehicle.

Low Freon level can cause this. Do not try to refill yourself with a can. You will do more damage to it, because you have not evacuated used Freon and keep topping off externally will overload the system and spring a leak or burn the compressor out. Take it to a Shop where they will Evacuate, create Vaccum, inject Compressor oil and Dye and recharge to the require level with Freon. This way if Freon leaks you can see where the dye is coming out and fix the leak.

Sounds like your torque converter is failing. Self repair if you are a good mechanic. If not, it is off to the transmission shop.

It sounds like it is time to get it serviced.