Top 20 1998 Chevrolet K1500 Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity, spelling and duplication. Question moved to model category. Check the fuel pump relay first, and then check fuel pump pressure. https://www.google.com/search?q=1998+Chevy+K1500+fuel+pump+relay

https://www.diyforums.net/where-it-located-the-1998-chevy-silverado-5.7-crankshaft-position-sensor-133835.html ..

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to sub category. Two part question. First part. It depends what the relay was for. It may be something you are not using? See the relay diagram. Second part. Could be many things. Check for codes. Clean throttle body and MAF. Check plugs for gap and condition.

1998 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 fuse box diagram - StartMyCar

https://www.startmycar.com > Silverado 1500 > Fuse box The 1998 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 has 2 different fuse boxes: Instrument Panel Fuse Block diagram. Underhood Fuse/Relay Center diagram.

You could try cycling the ignition switch on and off several times before you crank it. If it helps check the fuel system. The spider fuel system is noted for problems. Key on engine off, 60--66 psi fuel pressure.

Are you sure you don't have water in the fuel?

At this website www.reliable-store.com I found so much of information on how to repair vehicles and all technical issues in detail.. Also complete, much better language, and they also have live assistance feature

You should have a check engine light on. You can have codes read at most parts store for free. Sluggishness at WOT usually results from carbon buildup in engine. Usually the result of NOT changing oil regular. But the scanner will give better insight. Possible causes are, but not limited to, carbon buildup, clogged egr valve, ignition timing. The scan will isolate cause. Bad distributor also possibility.

Do you have live data on your scan tool? If so, what are the fuel trims and O2 sensor readings? Do NOT start throwing parts at this.

po428 No such code

you caused a huge vacuum leak hoses not put back or done wrong. recheck all work, all things touched for done wrong.

If the failed units show wear at the sensor end, clearance may be the problem. Another cause can be the wiring from the sensor to the ECM - very important not to have it close to any of the ignition wiring.

Low fan speeds go thru the ignition switch - only the high speed is directly connected to the fan motor. ?so to fix that dilemma you need a new ignition switch. Could also be the source of your other issues.

Crank sensor ? Power an grounds for the VCM engine computer . CHECKED ALL THE FUSES 3X ,What's this ??? Five volt reference voltage circuit in VCM , Did you check this ? Do you know what the five volt ref. circuit is ?Is there B+ voltage to ICM - ignition control module ? 047 Engine Hard to Start or No Start Scan Data for Ignition This is the easy way ,viewing scan data .

Sounds like your ignition switch is shorted, best way to check is by removing and looking for burnt signs or smell.

In the steering column. These are way different than today's models.

look on the inside of the handle and there should be a 10mm bolt in one of the corners.Undo the bolt and the rest will be self explanatory

could be also could be clutch in trans.

Their is no such thing on this transmission Why don't you try to explain the problem you are having I know a great deal about your vehicle.

OK this is a find how do you do!!!

• First approach go to a used car dealer with heavy wire that can be bent to fit up under the hood.
• Find similar model to your 1998 and open hood.
• Need pliers. Bend the wire in such a way that it will not interfere with the hood when it is closed but catch the release lever that the cable is attached to.
• Test it a few times and thank the sales guy or friend that let you make the tool on the model car.
• Take the tool home and use tool. Temporarily attach cord/wire to under hood latch allowing the end to come out the front with a loop. That will be your temp latch release.

This system does not use the ignition module used on the DI systems in the past. The VCM controller now controls the ignition control (IC) and bypass functions. The crankshaft sensor, located in the front engine cover, is perpendicular to a target wheel attached to the crankshaft. The target wheel is equipped with slots situated 60 degrees apart. As the crankshaft rotates, the target wheel rotates past the crankshaft position sensor. The rising and falling edges created by the slots cause a signal to be sent back to the VCM. This signal occurs three times per crankshaft revolution and is referred to as the 3x signal for V6 applications. The signal occurs four times per crankshaft revolution and is referred to as the 4x signal for V8 applications. The VCM then utilizes this 3x (V6) or 4x (V8) signal in order to provide the correct spark to the engine by way of the single coil driver module. The single coil driver module is basically an electronic switch that when commanded by the VCM, causes the primary coil voltage to breakdown, energizing the secondary coil and providing a spark via the coil wire to the distributor cap. The distributor consists of the following components: The system consists of the following components: ?€¢ Vehicle control module (VCM)

?€¢ Distributor

?€¢ Ignition coil driver module

?€¢ Ignition coil

?€¢ Crankshaft position (CKP) sensor

Now which part do you want to replace ? ?€¢ Cap and rotor

?€¢ Camshaft position sensor

?€¢ Gear drive and shaft

The camshaft drives the distributor shaft which rotates providing a spark to the correct cylinder by way of the cap and rotor. The camshaft position (CMP) sensor functions much like the crankshaft sensor previously described but provides only a 1x signal to the VCM. That is, for every 2 rotations of the crankshaft, there is 1 rotation of the camshaft. Note that the camshaft position sensor will not affect driveability. The sole purpose of the camshaft position sensor is to provide the VCM with the necessary information for the misfire diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs).