20 Most Recent 1999 Nissan Maxima - Page 2 Questions & Answers

I think you are talking about a vent hose. The new vehicles haven't used vacuum controls on trannys for a long time. Yours would be computer controlled. In short, the hose probably hooks to nothing....

The first step is to determine if it's a spark, fuel, or compression problem. Here's a quick way to find out which of the three is missing. Remove a plug wire, insert a Phillips screwdriver or spare plug piece of bare wire into the plug wire boot and place the end near the engine block (do not hold the plug wire while cranking the engine unless you want a shocking experience). If there's a spark when the engine is cranked, it has ignition. The problem is either fuel or compression. If the engine has an overhead cam with a timing belt, loosen the cover over the timing belt and check the belt. If the belt is okay, the problem is no fuel. Listen for the electric fuel pump in the fuel tank to make a buzzing noise when the ignition is turned on (you may have to open the gas cap to hear it). You won't hear anything if the pump has died. Diagnostics can now be focused on the fuel pump circuit to determine if the pump, relay or wiring is causing the no start. If the relay has voltage but the pump isn't running, you'll probably have to drop the fuel tank to check the wiring connector at the pump. If the problem is no spark, anything in the ignition circuit that creates the spark may be at fault. Use your AutoTap Express DIY to look for an RPM signal from the Crankshaft Position sensor while cranking the engine. A bad Crankshaft Position sensor is a common cause of no starts. The signal from this sensor goes to the PCM or ignition module that switches the ignition coil(s) on and off. If you have an RPM signal, a bad ignition module or PCM may not be switching the coil(s) on and off. Using a voltmeter, check for voltage at the coils with the key on and while cranking the engine. The voltage should be switching on and off. In ignition systems with a single coil and distributor, a bad coil or a cracked distributor cap or rotor can prevent the spark plugs from firing. On multi-coil, distributorless ignition systems and coil-on-plug systems; one coil failure may cause an engine to misfire, but it won't prevent it from starting. What's causing the no-start? All engines require three things to start and run: spark, fuel and compression. If any one of these isn't there, you aren't going anywhere

Hi Roman,here's a Autozone link to your vacuum diagram. Repair Guides Component Locations 3 0l vq30de V6 Engine AutoZone com

code p 0340 refers to camshaft position(CMP) sensor A bank 1--circuit malfunction===causes wiring---CMP sensor ---ECM because it denotes bank i ( bank closest to the fire wall) did you change the correct sensor check for wiring and harness conditions ait it may run close to the manifold and be worn through or broken at places

valve is faulty . thanks .

First thing is to check the level of the power steering fluid. If you're low, add enough to bring it back into range. If not, remove the cap and jack the front end off the ground (both wheels). With the cap off, turn the wheel lock to lock, back and forth, several times, to see if any air bubbles need to be bled out (this will bleed them). Then check the fluid level again and top it off as needed.

If neither of these helps, have the steering system checked by a shop - you may have a problem with the steering shaft, the tie rods, or the rack itself.

Did you reset your inertia switch located on the driver side near the fuse panel or on the trunk.

On the engine. Follow the fuel line from an injector up to the top of the engine. This is called the fuel rail. At the end of the rail is the pressure regulator.

There are many things that can cause the vehicle to stall/not start. The 2 most common are lack of fuel and lack of spark. Possible fuel pump issue or relay/wiring to fuel pump. This can be checked/ruled out by performing a fuel pressure test. Another common issue with this vehicle for stalling/no start is a crankshaft position sensor that will cause an ignition spark failure. Have the codes scanned as this sensor will usually set/store a code before you throw any more parts at it

Your symptoms do not sound like an EGR issue (but could be if only slightly dirty and stuck) but rather could be a bad coolant temp sensor,which is much easier to replace. It can be tested also, but most are so cheap I just replace them. This part acts like a choke on old carb engines and can fail such that kind of like a stuck on choke.

unplug it while running,if rpms change,then the problem is something else,if no change then the egr is bad

No, you will need to order a replacement key from the dealership. They will normally require you to provide the VIN for the vehicle, plus proof of ownership of the vehicle.

get new battery even if it is good u nead new 1 by now an then u can really no its not that. if u get the car to run take off negitive from battery an if the car turns off it,s your alternator hope this helps u

My first suspicion is that the car had been in an accident and was not properly repaired. Check all the hoses for exhaust gas recirculation and fuel systems. Particularly look for rubber hoses, large or small, that may be pinched, cracked or damaged. You will need the car up on a hoist and a really good flashlight. I might also help to fill the car with gas first, so any leaks would show up more easily. You aslo have some systems that are supposed to direct gas fumes to be burned. Try to check these. I think you know never to fill the gas tank past the first "click", right? Be blessed.

DIY? You need a repair manual. from your auto parts store, possibly your library, or try filepeep.com if they have it or try manualslib.com

Not enough information to give a good answer.