1987 Nissan 200SX - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hi William, Sounds to me as if you have an electrical problem, very likely with an earth connection somewhere. Some additional info would be good. Does the vehicle have points and condenser or is the ugnition system electronic? Does it have electronic fuel injection, or is it fitted with an electronic carburettor? The more info you lt us have, the easier it is to get help. Regards John

Go to the LINK for a full discription with pictures of the removal of the fuel pump and sender.

Check your speedometer cable at both ends and make sure it is on tight. If the speeometer cable is the original cable it might be time to replace it with a new one. The cable will wear out over time and cause your speedometer to stop working when you drive your car. A replacement cable will cost around $15. If your speedometer cable is good and in working order then you will have to have your instrument cluster repaired. Take a trip to your local junk yard and find your vehicle and then remove that instrument cluster and replace your broken unit. This is cheaper then having your original instrument cluster rebuilt at a shop. If your instrument cluster is digital, check the fuse box located underneath the drivers side steering wheel and locate the "instrument cluster" or "speedometer" fuse. Pull it out and replace it with the same number fuse. To remove your instrument cluster, remove the four phillips screws holding your plastic bezel that surrounds the cluster and then remove the four phillips screws that hold the instrument cluster in place. Now pull it away from the dash and disconnect the electrical plugs. This is very easy to do at home using a phillips screwdriver. If you have any more question, feel free to contact me.

michael34

on nissans generally in the area of glove box and under hood

power delivery problem check main fuses under hood

put gas in it try to prime it

Take it to Auto Zone or another parts place and they will tell you what code it's showing for free.

Sounds like leak in high pressure side of turbo to inlet manifold tube.
Results in gutless or no performance but idle & revving in neutral ok.
Check for splits or loosened joints.

if its every year, a couple of things to consider are, climate in which you live( extreme colds can "snap" batteries), quality of battery(rebuilt batteries dont tend to have a long shelf life, or low quality, i know we are all on budgets.). always get the right one for the car. analyze when you are having to replace the battery(obviously right now is getting cold, midwest and back east). get the right one and it will come with a warranty if this continues. take a volt meter and see how many volts the alternator is putting out. you dont want any more than about 14.5v. after that you tend to start cooking the battery.

if you bought it with the problem it could be that the previous owner has had a "sleepy eye kit" fitted, if so, somewhere you may find a switch that is not a factory fitted switch, not the latching type but a press and release type which if momentarily pressed with the head lights turned on it gradually lowers the headlights to the desired height.
hope this is of help to you.
regards .dave

Thats a classic sign of having your engine run too rich. That puffy layer of ash is carbon which means your engine is not burning gas properly or completely which means is misfiring thats why the car is shaking. Try having your oxygen sensors checked and make sure you are using good fuel.

the timing marks for the cam go straight up the one on the crank goes to the 1 oclcok postion or put the pully on just slip it on and get it to point to 0 on the timing marker on the lower end next make sure the rotor is pointing to #1 and your set.

There should'nt be any fuel in your oil, it sounds like you might have a blown head gasket. If you think it might be overfuelling then remove the injector clips (don't mess up the order) and pour some fuel down the manifold and try start it. If it does'nt give a good effort at starting then I'd say you need to run a compression test. Sounds like you have a cracked block, warped head or bad head gasket.

Engine turns over but does not start.

I wash my car's motor and then starting with dificult and go off. I continue traying starting one and ones again. I changed rotor, inigition cap, and sparks and nothing. I continue starting but the car don,t stay on and the car don't run.

went to electronics now. sounds like a map sensor or a vacuum leak.

Change the spark plug wires cap and rotor.

Loosen has cap if sucks air, check Evac system. Try driving with cap loose. Also check tale pipe by putting hand over it, no air out means no air in.

jack the car up and give the see if the wheel has any movement left to right or top to bottom. If there is no movememnt then your cv joint is ok and tie rod is good. is the a noise when you make a tight turn left or right , it maybe a wheel bearing. Also you have checked the nuts on the wheel itself are all tight?

Could be fuel filter, tune up.