20 Most Recent 1989 Mercedes-Benz 190 - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Well you have a few issues here. As for the drivers door not locking/unlocking the vehicle, it sounds like the linkage that comes off the back of the tumbler has broken off. You can tell if this has happened because of the locks and also you won't feel any resistance when you turn the key in the door. For the gas flap lock either there is a leak in the vacuum system for the locks or the gas flap lock is bad. To manually open the gas flap lock you need to go through the trunk and behind the trunk panel where the gas flap lock is there should be a lever to manually unlock it or you can remove the screws that hold in the lock.

you will need to make sure you have every single part that the diesel needed to run in or out of the car then you can put it in as long as the transmission wil work since you dont go into much detail about that its hard to say anything except the one that was behind the diesel will work if not you got some research

Check the fuses, 1,18, and 19

replace new valve seal and the manifold gasket.

Best plan is to try autohausaz . com for the fuel pump. Buy new if you have to replace.

try balancing tires then check your shocks
bent rims?

Stage piston may have broke. It can be replaced with transmission in car.

In the trunk.

Most likely its the OVP relay behind the battery. Could be the fuel pumps are not coming on. Maybe the tune up is so old the ignition parts are not working ie cap, rotor, plugs , coil and wires. Also check fuses for corrosion and replace with new syle copper barrel fuses.

After years of use either the actuator is interfering with closure or the pin assembly has pushed the lock asembley down. May need to be loosened and raised for proper closure around the pin that keeps it closed. Also oiling may free up some funtion of the trunk closure assembly.

If you mean the shifting of an automatic by the modulator there is a t handle like deal that you can pull and twist kinda one way or the other and make it shift more aggressive or more tenderly. But if its slipping I would suggest new fluid and filter (including draining the torque convertor) and replacing the stage pistons on the side that can be replaced with the transmission in place.

If you go to the auto parts store,the strut and the bearing plate will run close to 150 dollars each,and the bearing plate has a bearing in it to allow for steering.

The vacuum pods are going out most likely, spendy fix. Go to crutchfield.com for radio solutions as they have MB wiring kits to bypass the fader for new stereos.

There are only 2 things to make it fire: having fuel and having spark. Pull out one plug and have a helper to start the engine while you hold the spark plug touching the engine chassis to see if it sparks. If there is then open the air filter to put some of fuel in tho start. It if is starts then you know what the problem is. No spark, look for problem at the ignition coil , rotor and distributor cap. No fuel , look for problem the fuel pump relay behind the battery. Good luck.

this vehicle does not use contact points or a condenser for its ignition system which is what i believe you are referring to. It uses an electronic p/u and control module for spark and fuel injection. hope this helps. good luck. the ignition control module is on the left side of engine comp.

Troubleshooting No Spark Your new engine won't start or your old engine suddenly quit and won't run. You're pretty sure there is no spark but how do you determine what the exact cause is? Definitely do a test for spark at the plugs. Remove one of the plug wires from a plug and hold it near grounded metal. (If the plug end has a long insulated shroud, you may have to improvise to get ground close enough to the end of the wire.) Have someone crank the engine while you watch for spark. If you get an 1/8" or so of spark, that should be enough to fire. If you don't have a helper, you can do it this way: Pull the hi-tension lead out of the distributor cap and hold near ground.
With ignition On, turn the engine pulley CW past the TDC mark. You should get some kind of spark, although if you turn slowly the spark may be weak.Check the distributor cap inside for signs of cracks or carbon arc tracks.
Also, check to see that the little carbon contact for the center terminal is in place; without that you can have spark but it won't get to any plug wires!It's rare, but a rotor with an internal short or carbon tracks on the surface can kill the spark before it even gets to the cap.
Quick review: The coil is a big transformer with a magnetic core. Current from the battery goes into the primary winding on Terminal #15. That same current goes out Terminal #1 and through the point contacts. This current creates a magnetic field in the core of the coil.When the points open, the magnetic field in the coil core collapses, creating a high voltage in the seconday winding, which is fed to the center Hi-tension terminal. The condensor across the points helps to control arcing at the points, which would soon destroy them, and also makes the spark a higher voltage by creating a resonant (ringing) circuit with the coil winding. All we really need to know is that without the condensor, the spark would be pretty weak.
Troubleshooting: You can find out quite a lot about the coil circuit with very basic tools. A voltmeter is helpful (I prefer the older analog meter with a needle over the digital ones because changes in readings are more easily seen.)If you don't have a meter handy, a simple test lamp will do just as well. If your car is 12 volt, use a 12 volt bulb; if 6 volt, use a 6 volt bulb. Put some wires on the bulb, maybe with alligator clips, and you're in business.Connect the tester (meter or bulb) from ground (engine case) to Terminal #15 on the coil. Never mind what the actual markings on the coil say; connect to the terminal which has the thick Black wire from the main harness on it. I say never mind the markings on the coil because someone may have swapped wires around which could lead you astray.The tester should show 12 volts (or 6v). If it doesn't, there is no power from the Ignition Switch. Track that down (bad switch?).Double check that there is power at Terminal #15 while cranking the engine with the key. This is important because sometimes power will be lost while cranking due to a contact failure inside the ignition switch.OK, you have power going to the coil. Now, hook the tester from ground to Terminal #1 on the coil (where the Green wire from the points connects).Leave the Hi-tension lead out of the cap. With ignition On, turn the pulley by hand (or have someone crank the engine). The tester should go On and Off twice each revolution. If it does that, you should get spark.If the tester stays ON while cranking, the points are not closing. Watch them while turning the pulley to see if they appear to close. If they do, there may be a surface film on the points or the points are eroded and pitted. Replace the points. I strongly recommend using Bosch points as many of the off-brand points give very poor life. In a pinch, you might lightly file the points. When replacing points, be sure to put a tiny amount of grease on the cam lobes or else the fiber rubbing block will rapidly wear and change the point gap. One other rare cause of an "open points" condition is failure of the tiny braided pigtail lead which grounds the advance plate. If the pigtail is broken, the advance plate may only be intermittently grounded. This will cause loss of spark as the advance plate moves or maybe no spark at any time. (There is no pigtail on distributors which have no vacuum advance.)If the tester stays OFF while cranking, there are 3 possibilities:
Points shorted (stuck closed).
Condenser shorted.
Coil open.Take the Green points wire off the coil terminal. If the tester now goes ON , either the points or the condenser is shorted. Replace both.If removing the Green wire still did not turn the tester ON , the coil may be open.
Double check that there is still power to Terminal #1 on the coil. Also look to make sure that there are not any other wires connected to Terminal #1.
(Sometimes, someone will mistakenly connect the Backup light wire to Terminal #1; this will cause no spark when in Reverse!)
Replace the coil if the above test shows the coil open.









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If doing it yourself go to http://www.Rockauto.com they have parts going back 60 years and are extremely fast. A normal CV joint/shaft e.g. GM costs about $125. The labor will be about $150 at a normal mechanic. Do it yourself and save by seeing how-to's and renting the main bearing socket at http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/home___
or Canadian Tire.

good luck

The alternator is held by 2 long bolts: one on top and one at the bottom. Identify the location of these bolts. Lose the top bolt first, remove completely the bottom bolt. Use the top bolt as a pivot point to lift the alternator so the belt can be out of the pulley grove. After that take off the top bolt so the alternator can come off easily. Put in the new one in reverse from what you did. Good luck.

well m8 they got ya bonkers eh? the fan isnt cheap by no means but you can change it yourself save ya sum quid that way the fam usually runs around $80 usd

Remove tyres. Remove brake pads.
Remove Brake calipers bolts from the back of calipers.
Put calipers aside without removing brake lines. Remove rotor bolts. Remove rotors. Install new rotors Make sure new rotors are clean from any grease that comes on it with petrol or any cleaning chemical for that purpose (no water) Install calipers Install new brake pads Good luck