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- Page 3 Questions & Answers
I am having problems
Well you have a few issues here. As for the drivers door not locking/unlocking the vehicle, it sounds like the linkage that comes off the back of the tumbler has broken off. You can tell if this has happened because of the locks and also you won't feel any resistance when you turn the key in the door. For the gas flap lock either there is a leak in the vacuum system for the locks or the gas flap lock is bad. To manually open the gas flap lock you need to go through the trunk and behind the trunk panel where the gas flap lock is there should be a lever to manually unlock it or you can remove the screws that hold in the lock.
on Oct 04, 2010
Can I put diesel engine in 190E year 1989? Thanks
you will need to make sure you have every single part that the diesel needed to run in or out of the car then you can put it in as long as the transmission wil work since you dont go into much detail about that its hard to say anything except the one that was behind the diesel will work if not you got some research
on Sep 30, 2010
My car won't crank. i turn the key and it sounds
Most likely its the OVP relay behind the battery. Could be the fuel pumps are not coming on. Maybe the tune up is so old the ignition parts are not working ie cap, rotor, plugs , coil and wires. Also check fuses for corrosion and replace with new syle copper barrel fuses.
on May 10, 2010
TRUNK WONT CLOSE
After years of use either the actuator is interfering with closure or the pin assembly has pushed the lock asembley down. May need to be loosened and raised for proper closure around the pin that keeps it closed. Also oiling may free up some funtion of the trunk closure assembly.
on May 01, 2010
How do u tention the belts in the gear box of a
If you mean the shifting of an automatic by the modulator there is a t handle like deal that you can pull and twist kinda one way or the other and make it shift more aggressive or more tenderly. But if its slipping I would suggest new fluid and filter (including draining the torque convertor) and replacing the stage pistons on the side that can be replaced with the transmission in place.
on Apr 24, 2010
Engine will turn over, won't fire
There are only 2 things to make it fire:
having fuel and having spark. Pull out one plug and have a helper to start the engine while you hold the spark plug touching the engine chassis to see if it sparks. If there is then open the air filter to put some of fuel in tho start. It if is starts then you know what the problem is.
No spark, look for problem at the ignition coil , rotor and distributor cap.
No fuel , look for problem the fuel pump relay behind the battery. Good luck.
on Mar 14, 2010
Where are the points and condensor located on the
this vehicle does not use contact points or a condenser for its ignition system which is what i believe you are referring to. It uses an electronic p/u and control module for spark and fuel injection. hope this helps. good luck. the ignition control module is on the left side of engine comp.
on Feb 28, 2010
No spark to the plugs
Troubleshooting No Spark
Your new engine won't start or your old engine suddenly quit and won't run. You're pretty sure there is no spark but how do you determine what the exact cause is?
a test for spark at the plugs. Remove one of the plug wires from a plug
and hold it near grounded metal. (If the plug end has a long insulated
shroud, you may have to improvise to get ground close enough to the end of the
wire.) Have someone crank the engine while you watch for spark. If
you get an 1/8" or so of spark, that should be enough to fire. If
you don't have a helper, you can do it this way: Pull the hi-tension lead out
of the distributor cap and hold near ground.
With ignition On, turn the engine pulley CW past the TDC mark. You
should get some kind of spark, although if you turn slowly the spark may be
weak.Check the distributor cap inside for signs of cracks or carbon arc tracks.
Also, check to see that the little carbon contact for the center terminal is in
place; without that you can have spark but it won't get to any plug wires!It's
rare, but a rotor with an internal short or carbon tracks on the surface can
kill the spark before it even gets to the cap.
The coil is a big transformer with a magnetic core. Current from the
battery goes into the primary winding on Terminal #15. That same current
goes out Terminal #1 and through the point contacts. This current
creates a magnetic field in the core of the coil.When the points open, the
magnetic field in the coil core collapses, creating a high voltage in the
seconday winding, which is fed to the center Hi-tension terminal. The
condensor across the points helps to control arcing at the points, which would
soon destroy them, and also makes the spark a higher voltage by creating a
resonant (ringing) circuit with the coil winding. All we really need to
know is that without the condensor, the spark would be pretty weak.
Troubleshooting: You can find
out quite a lot about the coil circuit with very basic tools. A
voltmeter is helpful (I prefer the older analog meter with a needle over the
digital ones because changes in readings are more easily seen.)If you don't
have a meter handy, a simple test lamp will do just as well. If your car
is 12 volt, use a 12 volt bulb; if 6 volt, use a 6 volt bulb. Put some
wires on the bulb, maybe with alligator clips, and you're in business.Connect
the tester (meter or bulb) from ground (engine case) to Terminal #15 on the
coil. Never mind what the actual markings on the coil say; connect
to the terminal which has the thick Black wire from the main harness on it.
I say never mind the markings on the coil because someone may have
swapped wires around which could lead you astray.The tester should show 12
volts (or 6v). If it doesn't, there is no power from the Ignition Switch.
Track that down (bad switch?).Double check that there is
power at Terminal #15 while cranking the engine with the key. This is important
because sometimes power will be lost while cranking due to a contact failure inside
the ignition switch.OK, you have power going to the
coil. Now, hook the tester from ground to Terminal #1 on the coil (where
the Green wire from the points connects).Leave the Hi-tension lead out of the
cap. With ignition On, turn the pulley by hand (or have someone crank the
engine). The tester should go On and Off twice each
revolution. If it does that, you should get
spark.If the tester stays ON while cranking, the points
are not closing. Watch them while turning the pulley to see if they
appear to close. If they do, there may be a surface film on the points or
the points are eroded and pitted. Replace the points. I strongly
recommend using Bosch points as many of the off-brand points give very poor
life. In a pinch, you might lightly file the points. When replacing
points, be sure to put a tiny amount of grease on the cam lobes or else the
fiber rubbing block will rapidly wear and change the point gap. One other rare
cause of an "open points" condition is failure of the tiny braided
pigtail lead which grounds the advance plate. If the pigtail is broken,
the advance plate may only be intermittently grounded. This will cause
loss of spark as the advance plate moves or maybe no spark at any time.
(There is no pigtail on distributors which have no vacuum advance.)If the
tester stays OFF while cranking, there are 3 possibilities:
Points shorted (stuck closed).
Coil open.Take the Green points wire off the coil terminal. If the tester
now goes ON , either the points or the condenser is shorted.
Replace both.If removing the Green wire still did not turn the tester ON ,
the coil may be open.
Double check that there is still power to Terminal #1 on the coil. Also
look to make sure that there are not any other wires connected to Terminal #1.
(Sometimes, someone will mistakenly connect the Backup light wire to Terminal
#1; this will cause no spark when in Reverse!)
Replace the coil if the above test shows the coil open.
This will help. Thanks please keep
updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya
on Feb 28, 2010
How much to repair a cv joint on my 190e?
If doing it yourself go to http://www.Rockauto.com they have parts going back 60 years and are extremely fast. A normal CV joint/shaft e.g. GM costs about $125. The labor will be about $150 at a normal mechanic. Do it yourself and save by seeing how-to's and renting the main bearing socket at http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/home___
or Canadian Tire.
on Feb 28, 2010
How do i remove an alternator from a 1989 mercedes
The alternator is held by 2 long bolts: one on top and one at the bottom. Identify the location of these bolts. Lose the top bolt first, remove completely the bottom bolt. Use the top bolt as a pivot point to lift the alternator so the belt can be out of the pulley grove. After that take off the top bolt so the alternator can come off easily. Put in the new one in reverse from what you did. Good luck.
on Feb 10, 2010
How to replace front rotors on a 1989 190e
Remove brake pads.
Remove Brake calipers bolts from the back of calipers.
Put calipers aside without removing brake lines.
Remove rotor bolts.
Install new rotors
Make sure new rotors are clean from any grease that comes on it with petrol or any cleaning chemical for that purpose (no water)
Install new brake pads
on Oct 25, 2009
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