20 Most Recent 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix - Page 8 Questions & Answers

not familiar with that exact car but usual you have to scoot under the dash and reach up to access

Under the hood there will be a routing diagram for the serpentine belt. Use that as a guide for replacement routing. There is an automatic belt tensioner in the loop. Use an appropriate tool to release the tension on the old belt and remove it from the vehicle. Route the new belt as per the diagram and allow the automatic tensioner to re-tension the belt.

The harmonic balancer has a grove where a square key which is already on the crankshaft holding the timing gear. Now all you have to do is look at your balancer you will see the grove cut out ok. As you put it in all you have to do it align the grove with the crankshaft key you should be able to see it before you install it. Once aligned just tap it in with a sledge and a piece of wood in the center so you do not do damage to the harmonic. I use a brass hammer. Now if the key came out with the balancer the slide key in first tapping it nicely and do not do any damage to it or the crank because it will be hard to slide the harmonic back on ok. Let me know good luck. See the square grove on the harmonic in the center.

The crankshaft doesn't. But the gear that goes on it does. It is a small triangle or a dot.

Most Auto Repair stores like Napa will have one.

run fault codes to determine the failing sensor.

I have an 2004 Grand Prix with 181,000 miles on it and recently got the Reduced Engine power light and codes p0068 and p0101 after searching the web I wound up cleaning the the throttle body and MAF sensor with no luck, but after finding out where the fuel filter was I changed it, which cured the problem. How embarrassing, I have owned this car for 9 years and have had it serviced regularly, but never before changed the fuel filter. I sure the other stuff helped but the fuel filter fixed the reduced engine power problem. I had to disconnect the battery each time to get it out of limp mode and was quite frustrated at the end.

Your first step is to get the stored trouble codes from the PCM and they will get you pointed in the right direction to get it diagnosed. There is a serious failure somewhere in the "Drive by Wire" circuit.

If I am not mistaken, it is under your car battery. Square box with a big wires connector plug with a 10 mm bolt in the middle or underneath your air cleaner. Good Luck.

It's inside the oil pan, under the engine. 3.8 engines aren't that bad to replace. I won't do 3.4 engines.

Any high power in the car will have a 12V relay such as alternators and battery. The clicking sound is your alternator relay, it's a eletical/mechanical device for switching. Check out your relay in the fuse box, most likely it's defective in stuck ON position.

Should be a brass screw by thermostat on the pipe. Open screw and rad fill rad til coolant comes out of screw in a stream.

Take the oil cap off and pull up and back towards you ,you have to take the oil cap extension off too... just screws out of the valve cover like the cap.

first of all why would you second if you want you could put a metal pipe between the two heater hoses that lead to the heater core

sounds like heater core or hose going to it bad

Antilock brake module problem. Replace EBCM.

remove battery from car. disconnect wires and bolts from starter. Pull starter from its opening. Put new starter in hole. tighten bolts and replace wires. Replace battery. The end.

Sounds like a weak or slowly dying battery or bad battery cables need attention.

A much better thought is that the temperature sending unit is at fault and not telling the computer to go into cold start mode to put more fuel into the engine for cold start. Kin of like a choke on a carbureted engine. Have the temperature sending unit replaced and you can get started no problem.