20 Most Recent 1994 Mercedes-Benz E-Class - Page 5 Questions & Answers

Drain the cooling system from the bottom rad hose. Remove the plastic fan shroud by unclipping at the top and withdrawing upwards. You may have to remove the radiator as the fan blade and viscous fan need to move forward to disengage. You will need a viscous fan spanner, or I use a long crow bar and tap it lightly to shock it into moving ( works every time). They are a reverse thread. Once you get it loose undo the pulley bolts, the drive belt and then remove the pulley. You now have access to the water pump bolts. Refit is a reverse of the above. Ensure your heater controls are set to hot whilst you fill up, to avoid air locks. Let the engine run to normal temp with the rad cap off and keep it all topped up. Observe the gauge inside the car. When you have it full drive it and check the water level again when it is stone cold. The hardest part is removing the fan nut. Also check you rad cap, these can fail, or if a poor quality item is fitted it fails to release when the car overheats leading to too much pressure which blows out elsewhere.

I had this problem a few days ago and found i had a blown fuse.
all fine.

check the fuses and also the back lighting of your dash, bulb maybe burned-out

check the pulley alignment looking across the belt. See if it has one pulley out of alignment or wiggling. When you have the belt off make sure you check the play on the water pump and check the alternator bearings if they are noisy. Then replace the belt. Sometimes there is a spacer left out of mounting one of the accessories (alternator, power steering, smog pump etc.) that can cause the pulley not to line up.

take the head off send it to a machine shop they will run dye through it and see if it is fixable also they will see if it is warped, if its bad well buy new or find used

contact an auto electrician to remove meter board on the dashboard and change the bulbs

clean up yourinjections system

idle control valve

the gearing on the motor and/or the regulator assembly is stripped. buy an entire new regulator and have it installed. the motor is 15 and entitled to fail.

The solenoid is part of the starter. If starter wont turn its the Neutral safety switch, solenoid, or ignition switch. Try to start in neutral, if it works its the switch, if it wont may still be the switch on the transmission.

I would suggest the alternator or regulator on it is going out. Have it checked. Also have wiring harness upper and lower in the engine bay cheacked. 1993-1995 MB was made by the US to use biodegradable insulation that may be falling apart on you.

I had the same exact issue to happen just last week as well. Passenger side front sidemarker/ and right rear tail both out, as well as my dashboard lights. Replaced fuses and bulbs but nothing. Stange thing is Signal light still works,,and its the same bulb. Any answers would be appreciated. 1989 MBZ 300e

You may have a bad temperature sensor/thermostat.

Dont know if you have the 6 or the V8 model but they are similar. Pull plastic front off the idler pulley. Put a wrench on it to release tension, slide old belt off slide new belt on. If your pulley has gone bad this is the best time to replace it.

Hi

Please check the bellow links to diagnose what is wrong with your car as it is cranking but wont fire….

http://www.2carpros.com/first_things/car_cranks_but_wont_start.htm

http://www.ehow.com/video_112584_troubleshoot-car-wont.html

http://www.jag-lovers.org/xjlovers/xjfaq/nostarts3.htm

http://www.samarins.com/diagnose/index.html

Let us know if you have something more to know else accept the suggestion.
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engine wiring harness or the EHA(because of the same bad wiring in them). from 93-95 all cars from overseas were forced by the US to use a biodegradable wire insulation. After many years of engine heat and age it crumbles off the wire itself and shorts out. Each component if it is bad is 900-1500 dollars from the dealers that will cost you 1800-3000 to replace.