1998 Chevrolet Corvette - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Could be bad TPS sensor.

If the alternator has a bad bearing or bearings it would likely make a noise.

a good battery will hold a charge through the winter if disconected from the vehicle adn left fully charged.
you may want to look into a battery monitoring charger, it is a trickle charger that is designed for long term use, it monitors battery volts and turns on when needed.

also put carpet squares or cardboard under the tires if you are parking on concreet. this will help prevent dry rot and flat spots

the knock sensors are on the side of the engine block. they screw directly into the block. most easily accessed with the car raised up

If the security light is blinking it will not start. The security system needs to be reset. You will have to have a fully charged battery to reset the system. With a full charged battery turn the ignition forward until the warning lights come on and leave the key in the on position for 15min. Turn key off and wait 10sec. then try and start.You may have to perform this procedure a couple of times, however, it is usually successful the first try. The reduced power light can be set by a low voltage/poor charge battery

try this steps to adjust your wiper.
1. Place the keys in the ignition, turn the keys to accessory mode (key-on/engine off), and make sure the wiper motor switch is in the off position. Turn the ignition switch to the off position and remove the keys. The wiper arms are now in their parked position, although may not be properly aligned.
2. Access the bottom of the compromised wiper blade arm. You may have to open the hood or remove the wiper arm cowling (refer to the owners manual for the removal of the cowling on your specific vehicle if required).
3. Locate the retaining nut at the bottom of the wiper arm assembly. Some models will have a protective plastic cap covering the nut. Other vehicles may have a hinged cover that is part of the wiper arm itself. Pry the cap off with a straight-edge screwdriver or unsnap the hinged cover by prying it up from the bottom of the wiper arm with the screwdriver to reveal the retaining nut.
4. Hold the wiper arm stable with one hand and remove the nut with the ratchet and a socket with the other.
5. wiggle the wiper arm gently with one hand while gently prying the base of the arm off the splinter wiper arm stud. The stud has a small spline that holds the wiper arm in the correct position unless otherwise compromised. The wiper arm will feel secured to the stud, but the combination of wiggling gently and prying with the screwdriver will work to remove the arm.
6. Place the arm back into the splined wiper arm stud by positioning it in the off position. some vehicles may have a wiper arms stop that the arm rests in the off position. If so, make sure that the wiper arm is resting against the wiper arm stop when replacing it on the stud.
7. Replace the retaining nut and tighten with the ratchet socket. repaet this procedure with the other wiper arm if desired.
8. use 2 sets of pliers to bend the wiper arm back into position if the wiper arm has been bent. Hold the wiper arm with one set of pliers to anchor it and use the other set to bend it so the wiper is perpendicular to the windshield. If the arm is bent too badly,replacing the wiper arm maybe a more viable option.
9. Inspect the wiper blades.check them for tears in the rubber blades, dry cracking or flimsiness.Replace the wiper blades if necessary.

I think the antenna wire is permanently attached to the glass and plugs into the power antenna motor

Failure in Evap System-- a possible place to start some TESTING

any number of things can cause that, like an old/dirty oxygen sensor. some things aren't worth fixing while others are, but don't sweat it as long as all your other gauges are in the green and your car still runs, I've run cars for years with engine lights on, its certainly not something to rush anywhere for.

In the underhood electrical center. The fuse number is 13 and its a 20A mini fuse.

could be several things a shift solenoid in trans ....possibly clogged filter...maybe alinkage problem

bad alternator

sound like you need to ajust the timing.

If you can verify current going out of the main dash switch towards the headlamps, then I would go relay hunting. My guess is the switch, since the brights and fog lamps work on demand (dimmer switch pulled).

low on freon a/c leak and has set a low refrigerint code that needs to be cleared

Up front behind the headlights.

sound like the moter is going out

to change your tranny fluid and filter is relativily easy i will tell you step by step here.
1. raise the vehicle and support it with jack stands
2. get a large drain pan
3. locate the transmission oil pand and losen all the bolts removing the rear half of the bolts only and just losening the other bolts to keep the pan held up but allowing it to sag on the rear.
4 be carefull because in this step your likely to get a bath in tranny fluid. insert a flat srewdriver in the back of the pan and carefully pry it lose. now trany fluid is going to pour out of the pan.
5. remove the rest of the bolts be carefull because the trany pan still has a lot of fluid in it.
6. grab ahold of the filter and pull it down.
7. insert the new filter but make sure the rubber gasket came offf with the old filter they have a tendency to stick in the transmission.
8 replace oil pan and torque down evenly
9 refill with correct fluid to the correct level
10 take for a drive and recheck the fluid level and check for transmission fluid leaks
ps when the pan is off clean the inside of it out with brake cleaner really good
If there are no leaks after you get done congratulate your self on a job well done

hope this helps you
please rate me
Thank you

Hello,

Congradulations on your first corvette. I have had a couple in my 50 years. They are great cars, fun, head turner and sense its chevy and not foriegn little less money and hassle for repairs.

OK, as far as your problems go. Lets take first one. You say it wont start. I of course do not have all your symptoms complete in your description, however it appears to me (correct me if i am wrong, or do not have enough information) is that it was running ok, and now it appears all your gauges are working battery is showing full charge but when you turn key, nothing!!

Normally if it is the starter of solenoid there would be at least a click sound every time you try and turn the key, and it is pretty easy to hear. So, i do not think it is the starter, as it would at least click. Another note, you can have a fully charged battery in great shape, and if starter is not clicking at all when attempting to turn key, then this narrows it down in most cases to the cables going from the battery to the starter/solenoid.

A lot of times you will have a good battery, and the control panel for your gauges and other things that work on your battery such as radio, fuel pump etc might work fine, which could elliminate any battery problems, with the exception of the cables that go from your battery to the starter, could me loose or corroded. At the least you should hear a click when trying to start the car coming from the starter. Other place to look is fuse box, and find fuse marked as most have, starter switch or relay.
If eventually you get a click sound from your starter when trying to start, then yes your starter is going bad and needs replacing. Conclusion on starting issue, is check all fuses and more then likely check connections directly from battery to starter and relay.On additional note thinking it is your security system, yes that is possible( you would have to check owners manual for that) however i am not sold on that myself, as most the time with security issues they will allow your car to crank and crank, but not fire up. But, something to check into concerning your model and if that is the way it acts, every one is little different, also depends on previous owner might have adapted it different then factory stock.

Now on your air conditioning problem, if it blinks 3 times, and blows only hot air can be needs charge or freon, or sometimes it has leak in line. The good news is that at least its blowing hot hot air, means most likely the compressor is working. What I did with mine, is I went down to AUTO ZONE, and bought a can, of freon and it had gauge it came with it, and directions were real easy, as your at auto zone, and of course starter problem with car is solved, open up hood, if you do not know where the ac hose intake is and charge it yourself. I did myself on mine and it was a piece of cake, and runs now real cool. A service shop i checked on for fun, wanted 300 bucks for diagnosis and make up all this junk that it could be, and so, i said heck with that, bought can, did myself , my total cost was 32 bucks. As long as your compressor is running, its going to be needs freon charge, or possibly pin hole leak in line. Service centers by law can not just add freon with small leak, as the public can for there own environmental liabilities.So, sometimes you can just charge it your self, and even once a year charge it again with a can, and it will be fine.

I really hope this advice helps you, If you would like to write me back with some more prior symptoms of the starting issue, and little more details, if what i have told you does not solve problem, PLEASE do so, and i will do my best to get that GREAT CAR, running again, and keeping you cool, as you look cool in it. Mike, from fixya.


Second problem you are having with the air conditioning. First of all most cars with a security system that might cause this, would allow a person to

10w30 will be fine on any broken in engine. The first 10000 miles 5w30 is recommended. On the very bottom side of the engine's oil pan will be the bolt to remove to drain the oil