Top 10 1995 Chevrolet Tahoe Questions & Answers

http://autorepair.about.com/library/firing_orders/bl-fo-3711.htm

check wiring on passengers side near the rear hatch speaker, the rear door speakers are run through them also. i had the same problem and it was a unplugged connector at that location

Depends on what thermostat you put in. Stock is a 190*. Which will usally run about 200-210. That's where most all small blocks are happy.

you need a timing light and you have to take the cover off the electrical junction on the passanger side of the firewall once the cover is off you can disconnect the timing advance wire theres onle two wires you can disconnect so you cant mess it up the other one has a fuse in it for the lamp under the hood. then under the distributer theres a 9/16 bolt that holds a clamp on the distributer to keep it in place loosen it up just enough so you can turn the distributer but it still stays in place. then take some clalk of a yellow or white crayon from your kids and look at the crank shaft there will be a notch in it use the chalk to highlight it. then hook up the timing light pos-pos neg-neg and the clamp on the no 1 cylinders plug wire the the no 1 cylinder is the closest cylinder to the radiator on the drivers side. then fire it up and hit the button on the light you will see it light up as that cylinder fires and that notch should line up with the timing tab on the front of the block to adjust the timing just rotate the distributer until the notch lines up with the tab. let me know if that helped.

Note that many problems that show up as transmission issues are actually PCM or electrical, and may be external to the transmission. Try a different PCM, and check for chafing where the cables come out of the PCM.

The transmission is on the same fuse as the MAF, O2 sensors and at least one other sensor - if an O2 shorts out, it will blow the fuse and the trans will go into limp-home mode. Be sure the trans has power and the fuse is not blown before doing anything else.

Limp mode is a fault mode in which the transmission either loses electrical power or the PCM deactivates all of the electronics. The transmission will default to max line pressure. The driver will have Reverse and 3rd, with manual 2nd available by putting the gearshift in 2 or 1 (doesn't matter). 1st, 4th, and TCC lockup will not be available. It will not hurt the car to drive it like this for short periods, but use manual 2nd to get the car moving, and be aware that the trans will generate more heat than normal while operating in limp-home mode due to increased torque converter slippage during 2nd gear starts and no lockup in 3rd gear.

Check the wire harness clip on the transmission, passenger side by the catalytic converter. Look for any damages due to corrosion or brake in the wire leads. it's common for the clip to brake and the wire harness to loosen causing the transmission in to limp mode. Good luck and keep me posted, be glad to help you get your transmission running again soon and please rate.

Check for check ball wear on the separator plate and address it if needed. The 1-2 check ball wears out and sometimes the check ball blows through or sticks in the plate causing troubles.

Just thought I would point out a few items to think about. Good luck.

Had the same problem, so I changed the actuator on the tranfer case. After I did that I still got not nothing. No engagement or a light at the shifter. So i popped the fuse panel cover on the left side of the dash and found the 4wd fuse was fried. Changed it and low and behold I had my 4wd back. So in actuality I just had to to change a fuse. So now I have a spare actuator. Oh well!!!!

You will have to remove the interior door panel and while you still have the power window switches hooked up you will nned to roll the window up or down until you can access the bolts holding the glass to the window regulator. Once you remove the bolts just pull the glass up and out of the door frame.

Brake Light Switch REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disable the SIR system (if equipped).
3. Remove the clip (R/V Series) or unclip the switch (C/K Series) and unplug the electrical connector from the brake light switch.
4. Remove the switch.
5. Installation is the reverse of removal.

Most likely, you have a defective temperature actuator. (See diagram below) You can see/get to the actuator by removing the glove box assembly. Turn the ignition on and change the temperature control from hot to cold and/or cold to hot. Watch the white ring on the actuator (See picture) and see if it turns. If it does not turn, replacing the actuator is very likely to fix your problem. (There are other things that can cause this to not work, but most of the time, it is the actuator itself)

If the actuator is working and the temperature coming out the vents does not change, then the blend air door is broken. (This is the part that the actuator moves.) This is also fairly common and requires removal of the entire HVAC housing assembly to repair.

check plugin for od switch for mud and grime. if necessary replace switch on tranny