1992 Chevrolet K1500 - Page 9 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hi, if your engine cranks normally but will not start because it has no spark, or it stalls and won't restart because it has no spark, the problem may be due to any of the following:

• A bad pickup inside the distributor (on engines that have a distributor), a stripped distributor drive gear (common problem with plastic distributor drive gears), broken, loose or corroded wires from the pickup to the ignition module or PCM.
• A bad crankshaft position (CKP) sensor (on engines that do not have a distributor), or broken, loose or corroded wires from the sensor to the PCM.
• A bad ignition module (on engines that have a distributor or use an ignition module separate from the PCM)
• A bad ignition coil (on engines that have a distributor and a single coil)
• A bad rotor or distributor cap (cracks or carbon tracks that are allowing the spark to short to ground)
• Faulty ignition switch.

the carrier bearing is a press off and press on bearing. drop the 2 mount bolts remove the 2 rear u bolts and take the front half to the auto parts store. takes about 2 minutes to presss on and off

First, check to make sure you still have spark at the coil, if so, the distributor cap and rotor are probably bad. If no fire at coil, the most common is the ignition module in the distributor.

it is a stuck sending unit in tank, it could be the gauge, but theu usually do not go bad. have a good day!!

That is just saying that your in diagnostic mode.

There is an idle control solenoid on the throttle body, it is opposite of the throttle sensor which has a butterfly flap inside.

check the ground for the rear lights

Pull dif. cover off. Remove small bolt holding spider gear pin in. Remove pin. Push one axle in remove "C" clip. Push other axle in remove "C" clip. Pull axles out. Pry seal out. Using slide hammer pull axle bearing out..

Need some good testimonials .

This is common on the older trucks, disconnect the battery for 5 mins then reconnect it, be sure your system has enough charge to cycle the compressor and be ready to add more if you have to . It is like the cadillacs where it is a clutch saving setup where it cycles too much it will disable it. Hope this helps.
Thanks,
Joey

If the fuse is good and the reverse lights are good, I would suspect your problem will be the reverse light switch itself. I believe yours is located on the side of the transmission where your linkage connects, if you have an automatic transmission.
If you have a manual transmission , you'll probably have to contact the local automotive parts store and ask them to tell you where it's located.

remove trans bolts and slide trans back to gatn acces to fly wheel bolts u dont have to fully remove the trans.

the carrier has to be pressed off and on, if you don't have a press take it to a machine shop

if it hasn't changed its 6-1-2-3-4-5- at least in the 94

With a clutch cable linkage there is always adjustment in the cable length to compensate for cable stretch.

With hydraulic clutch linkage, there is less need for adjustment because there is nothing that is supposed to change.
However, the rod connecting the pedal to the clutch master is still almost always adjustable. What you try to do is optimize the pedal free play to about a half inch. You don't want to get rid of all the free play, or else the clutch master may retain pressure and cause slippage. But you don't want too much free play, or else the clutch may still grab enough to cause grinding. There is usually a locknut and threaded shaft that turns to change length.

But if the hydraulic fluid is dirty or leaking from either slave or master, rebuild them both, look for pits, put in new seals, and bleed the old fluid and air out of the line, before adjusting.

the blower resistor is bad. it's located behind the glove box

1992 Chevrolet K 1500 P/U 4WD 4.3 liter V-6 VIN "Z"




1992 Chevrolet K 1500 P/U 4WD 5.7 liter V-8 VIN "K"
and
1992 Chevrolet K 1500 P/U 4WD 5.0 liter V-8 VIN "H"




Hope helps (remember rated this).

hi, it is located on the passenger side of engine right at the transmission housing. It isnt that hard to do really. make ssure you have the unlock code for your factory radio is so equipped.. disconnect any battery terminal. you will see two 14mm bolt heads pointing to the ground within 3inches of each other. the starter looks like a cylinder with a smaller cylinder piggybacked on it. it will have a big cable to it from the battery. remove the nut holding that wire on it,be careful there is another wire there too and that gives power to the ignition switch. now remove the smaller nut holding the purple wire, now remove the two 14mm bolts I mentioned earlier and voila, starter is in your hand. instal by reverse and you are done.

I guess I would start by getting a voltmeter and seeing if there is 12 volts on one side or the other at the brakelight switch. If you do not have 12 volts, work back towards the source being battery/alternator.

I do not know what type of bulbs you have, the blade or round socket type but many times I have seen single element bulbs stuck into dual element sockets and vice versa. They are physically the same size, but not electrically. Do not think you can make a mistake with the blade type but I would eliminate that as a possibility.

It used to be common for those long stretches of wire to the rear end to be in a bundle exposed on the underbelly of the vehicle. In northern climes the winter weather would often eat through the wiring causing opens which means no power getting back there. If the wiring is under the body, track it from rear to the front and make sure there are no corroded areas.

Easy.. Just get a 19 mm wrench and pull over the tensioner to release the belt.

That little wire needs to be plugged up. When you click start, that wire activates the solenoid which in turn activates the starter. Note that the solenoid is also attached to the starter.