20 Most Recent 1994 Buick LeSabre - Page 8 Questions & Answers

You need to run a test light between battery and negative lead...then start pulling fuses untill the light goes out..thatll at least tell you what circuit has the short circuit

engine idle then take a screwdriver and hit lightly the MAF sensor if engine stall then maf is defect.

The heater core is located under the dash, in the center. The container holding the core looks like a black plastic box. Remove the ash tray for easier access. You may have to also remove some other covers under the dash. You must first drain the radiator then you have to disconnect the hoses. There are two hoses connected to nipples of the heater core that go thru the center of the firewall. Remove the screws that hold on the cover to the heater core. Then you should be able to get the old one out. There might be a couple of other minor steps but I'm sure you can figure them out. For re-installation just go in reverse order to put it all back together.

What is the voltage you are reading? Is it below 13.2 or so? Also have you checked the current with the engine off to see if something else is working that should not be on. I ran across this twice while working on a truck and car. A relay that was wore out keep trying to close and would drain the battery every couple of months. Sometimes you can hear them clicking or buzzing. Touching them sometimes they are warm or real hot. But that is not a sure sign it is bad. In my Trailblaze they get hot but are ok. Another thougth is the belt on your alt, correctly set to spin it at the right voltage. I have ran across this many times lately with serpatine belts.

check fuse if good cluster bulb burn ,remove cluster instrument and change bulb that are burn

You need to scan the computer for trouble codes. If the light was on, there must be codes set. On a '95 Buick, it would be OBD-1, On Board Diagnostics-first generation ('96 and later is all OBD-2).The diagnostic connectors are different for OBD1 and OBD2, but in '94 and '95, GM was on some models using a "hybrid" diagnostic link connector. You will just have to find the right diagnostic connector to get your codes. The guys at autozone or a national parts store who do engine scans for free may help you figure it out. If it is a straight forward OBD 1 connector, a cheap code reader could scan for trouble codes. For the OBD1, you can also use a jumper wire between terminals A & B of the diagnostic link connector. Turn key to on, and two digit codes will begin to flash on the check engine light. Code 12, for instance, would be a flash, pause, two short flashes, and longer pause before the next code appears. Code 12 by the way, just means that the computer is in diagnostic mode-after that any set codes will appear or be flashed. Code 55 may also be flashed-this code means the end of codes that are set.

Again-----does it not start or not crank?(you said in the same post that it won't turn over and won't start).

Do you mean won't crank or won't start? If it won't crank,and you don't see a SECURITY light on the dash,it could be the starter,or maybe the PRNDL switch(my bet is the starter,since GM can't build a decent starter or alternator). If you do see the SECURITY light,you are probably looking at replacing the ignition lock cylinder.If you are referring to a "cranks but no start" condition,you have to determine what is not working(no spark,no compression,or no fuel) to get a handle on the problem.

Do you mean it won't crank? Or won't fire? Check the battery condition and the tightness of its connections.

You obviously need a repair shopYou don't have several of those you have gone to over the years?

What is the question in some detail ?We can only guess up to a point, soprovide what has been done so far to resolveIs the Exhaust Converter old & blocking exhaustflow?

In vacum line going to valve cover or into intake manifold