20 Most Recent 1989 Buick Regal - Page 7 Questions & Answers

If you can get an elbow for your socket extension, it would be way eaisier. I do know of some people who take off the bones. It's not as hard as it looks.

which items are you refering to?

Hi,

You don't. It is electronic and is controlled by the Crank and Cam sensors.

Why do you think you need to adjust it?

here

do you have a 3.1L V6? The timing cover gasket seals the timing components, it is located behind the belt drive system (alt, a/c, p/s etc.) all of these components must be removed to change this gasket, also the oil pan lower seal gets changed at the same time. The oil pan gasket includes the rear pan seal and the side seals and on for the rear of the pan, the engine must be lifted out of it mounts to change this gasket. It takes time to do these repairs and each shop has an hourly rate per hour on labor. The cost of the parts will be relatively the same at any shop, labor will differ. I hope this helps to answer your questions.

the water pump is going to be one of the pulleys on the serpintine belt. its going to be the only one that uses the back of the belt(side with no groves) to spin it. take the belt off and undo the three screws on the pulley and pull it out. then put the new pump back in. make sure belt is one right. make sure cooling system is still full. and you should be good to go.

If the trans.oil is dark brown in color and smell's burnt your tranny is probably on it's last leg.If tou have bad pump pressure or low oil you will have to rev the eng to get it to build enough pressure to move.Your detent cable or kick down cable is for passing,when you step on the gas when passing someone this cable is pulled causing the trans. to go into a lower gear and when you let off the gas it should shift back into a higher gear.if it's out of adjustment it will kickdown to soon or to late.If your car has alot of miles it may be in need of a filter and fluid change,but usually when slipping occures its to late and you will need a replacement tranny.Hope this was helpfull.

Sounds like you have a fuel problem, either supply or use.
check the fuel injectors first, maybe get them cleaned. this could be done with an additive or a visit to whomever changes your oil.
if not that, then the filters. but both of these are pretty simple to do.

if it persists, go to your mechanic and do a compression test, to see if you have a seal problem around your heads or your gaskets.

One thing you can do is unplug the MAF sensor and then start the car and see if anything changes. If it runs better and does not stall, its possible the MAF is completely bad and needs to be replaced.

A fault code reader would be a huge help in diagnosing general problems. It plugs in under left side dash and gives specific failure codes (this is what mechanics use).
You can buy an OBD-I code reader (for cars before 96) online for $79.95 or a OBD-II which reads all cars from 1996 on. It will also reset faults or engine trouble lights.

You may want to check your fuel pressure with a gauge.

or do a simple Fuel pump test:

1. remove the gas cap.
2. have one person listen in the gas tank at the gas cap opening.
3. the other person turns the ignition switch to the ON position ONLY (so the dash lights come on.) Do NOT crank or start up the engine.
4. As soon as the ignition key is turned to the ON position, The person at the gas tank should hear the fuel pump run for TWO SECONDS and then it should STOP.

If it does NOT run for the 2 seconds every time, the fault is either the fuel pump or fuel pump relay

This is a serious repair job (I've done it several times) and a real beast for the typical driveway mechanic. It's nothing like the simplicity of a fan or alternator belt. It's inside the engine!
A $50 part and 10 hrs of labor. A sure way to kill a weekend (if everything goes well)
The front engine cover, housing the waterpump, etc must come off (usually the radiator, etc is in the way)

The relationship between the position of the crankshaft and camshaft is critical (these 2 major rotating parts are connected by the toothed timing belt. One notch off during re-assembly and the car will never run right if it even starts.

Buy a good shop manual (factory is best but aftermarket is OK) and examine the steps before deciding to take on this tough job.

It sounds like you have air pockets in your cooling system. Those engines have bleed valves strategically placed about the engine. At the radiator filler neck it looks full but in reality you're low on coolant. They're a bugger trying to eliminate the air pockets. That's what it sounds like with the informaion you gave. Good luck!

Have you tried any starting fluid? Do you have Spark on all the spark plugs? Whay was it parked adn did it run then?

Underneath the seat there are 2 wires going up to the bottom of the seat, one orange, one black. If you already checked the fuse, then unplug the wires under the seat and use a test light on the wires coming out of the floor. It should light at all times. If it doesn't light, write another post and I'll tell you what to do next.

I am looking the weather sensor from a buick lacrosse 2011 any body knows where is located l cant find it please

You find fuse box diagram for Buick Regal here --> https://www.autogenius.info/buick-regal-1988-1993-fuse-box-diagram/

usually the security light comes on when the Chip on the key is not being read. this triggers the security light. With mine I had to replace the ignition switch to get it to read the key. If its just the light no problem, BUT if your car starts to develop a crank without starting this means its time to change that faulty ignition switch

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_-FsVvNr40 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oj_vwlr1i0g

Using a standard harmonic balancer puller with 3 bolts that are just a bit too large for the 3 openings if possible., Tap them with a die large enough to get a decent grip with the bolts and remove it like any other. If that won't work then just drill and tap 3 holes for the remover. I generally use 10 MM bolts when I do mine.