20 Most Recent 1989 Buick Regal - Page 2 Questions & Answers

the one with the smaller motor usually passenger side fan

get a manual its hard and extremely difficult be prepared to remove dashboard,,,yeah....it sukks

clean fuel sytem

on the blinker control pull towards you

it is located usually in center front of engine right below your second spark plug or itll be down by the passenger tire ,,front,,by axle area

its located on your exhaust sytem there are usually two some have four go yo autozone if you have a check engine light on they will tell you what bank o2 sensor it is and give you a diagram but it sounds like your fuel pump is going out

check part numbers on enjectors

replace your idle sensor

check temp sencer wire at bottom of raditor

If I remember correctly (and I admit that my memory isn't what it used to be), the steel fuel from the fuel pump to the carburetor runs up and over the front of the engine. If you live in a warm climate, you ma have fuel percolating in that line after the engine heats up. If that is the correct routing of the fuel supply line, try wrapping the upper portion of the steel line with some small pipe insulation, and see what happens. If that doesn't help, post back and I'll search the memory banks some more. Good luck.

You have to take the tank off. If you've never done it before, better buy a repair manual to walk you through it. A lot easier if the tank is empty or nearly so. If you have to, lower the tank enough to get the filler hose off, then you can siphon gas out of there. Two straps hold the tank in place. Label or remember where all the fuel lines came off of-the main line, return line, and vent line. If the lines connect at top of tank, lower the tank to get to them and the electrical connector, then take the straps off and tank should be free. Helps to have a helper, or if tank is heavy use a floor jack with a piece of wood between tank and jack.Slide the tank out and remove the locking ring where pump assembly mounts in. Wipe or blow away all dirt so nothing falls into the tank. Remove lock ring, lift out assembly. A large rubber O-ring seals the assembly to tank, probably should replace that too on an '89.

my name is David ,I live in Austin Texas and do alot of mecchanic / technician work around town. I do have my certifications and have work at dealerships and Autozone as well...with all that being said... if you are not getting spark on this vehicleand it is not likely the coils or the module. The crank position sensor the device responsible for reading the angle ( timing ) of the crankshaft. The crankshaft has notches in it that pass either through or near the crank position sensors magnetic tip. The ignition module then interprets the signal and allows signal ( electrical current) to pass into module and on to ignition coils...then on to spark plugs via spark plug wires/cables. The crank position sensor is located on the back side of the engine in the gap between the engine and transmission housing. it is held in place by one 8mm (metric size) or 5/16 standard size bolt. Use a wrench though unless you have small hands or a 1/4 drive socket set. 9.99 times out of ten it will start if there are no other issues... your welcome

It depends on how much oil and how long the engine ran if any.If you put in 2 quarts too much but did not start the engine, no worries.if you put in 2 quarts too much and drove it for 50 miles, you could have damaged some seals and they may start leaking. Odds are you did not damage anything internally.

I'm not sure I am following your problem.A transmission holds 10-15 quarts including the torque converter. When you drain the fluid you are changing about 4 quarts of the full amount. Once you fill the transmission to the full mark on the dipstick, you should not be adding more fluid unless there is a leak. Or if the vac modulator is damaged and allowing fluid to be pulled into the engine. The fluid is checked with the engine running in park.

Trouble Code 33 and 34 are the MAF/MAP Sensor Circuit. It sounds like you've replaced that sensor already. Did you also have the code 34 before putting in the new sensor?
Or did this code start after it's replacement? Any other codes appearing?

Troubleshooting it would depend if it has the Speed Density Update. The dealer should be able to provide that info.

Here's your fault code list:

13 oxygen sensor circuit 14 coolant temp sensor circuit (high temp) 15 coolant temp sensor circuit (low temp) 21 throttle position sensor (TPS) circuit (high signal) 22 throttle position sensor (TPS) circuit (low signal) 23 manifold air temp (MAT) circuit (low temp) 24 vehicle speed sensor (VSS) circuit 25 manifold air temp (MAT) circuit (high signal) 31 wastegate solenoid electrical circuit 32 exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) circuit 33 mass air flow (MAF) circuit (gm/sec high) 34 mass air flow (MAF) circuit (gm/sec low) 41 cam sensor circuit 42 C3I EST or bypass circuit failure 43 electronic spark control (ESC) circuit 44 oxygen sensor circuit (lean exhaust) 45 oxygen sensor circuit (rich exhaust) 51 PROM error 52 calpak error 55 ECM error

I RECOMMEND TO GET SOME ONETO LOOK AT IT A MANUEL WILL BE THE BEST HELPER.

car wont start i had the started check put a new battery in what should be my next step?

to take out ignition switch you must remove the steering wheel