20 Most Recent 1989 Buick Electra Questions & Answers

Internal failure

Inside the transmission on the valve body

Transmission REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Open the hood and place protectors on the fenders. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
2. Disconnect the detent cable at its upper end.
3. Remove the transmission oil dipstick, and the bolt holding the dipstick tube if it is accessible.
4. Raise the vehicle and safety support it with jackstands. NOTE: If a floor pan reinforcement is used, remove it if it interferes with driveshaft removal or installation.
   
5. Disconnect the speedometer cable at the transmission.
6. Disconnect the shift linkage at the transmission.
7. Disconnect all electrical leads at the transmission and any clips that hold these leads to the transmission case.
8. Remove the flywheel cover and matchmark the flywheel and torque converter for later assembly.
9. Remove the torque converter-to-flywheel bolts and/or nuts.
10. On gasoline engine vehicles, disconnect the catalytic converter support bracket.
11. Remove the transmission support-to-transmission mount bolt and transmission support-to-frame bolts, and any insulators (if used).
12. Position a transmission jack under the transmission and raise it slightly.
13. Slide the transmission support rearward.
14. Loosen the transmission enough to gain access to the oil cooler lines and detent cable attachments.
15. Disconnect the oil cooler lines and detent cable. Plug all openings.
16. Support the engine and remove the engine-to-transmission bolts.
17. Disconnect the transmission assembly, being careful not to damage any cables, lines or linkage.
18. Install a C-clamp or torque converter holding tool onto the transmission housing to hold the converter in the housing. Remove the transmission assembly from the vehicle (a hydraulic floor jack is best for this). To install: Fig. 1: Transmission oil cooler lines
    
    
19. Install the transmission assembly into the vehicle (a hydraulic floor jack is best for this). When installing the flex plate-to-converter bolts, make sure that the weld nuts on the converter are flush with the flex plate and that the converter rotates freely by hand. Coat the threads with thread locking compound, hand-start the three bolts, tighten them finger tight and torque them evenly to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm).
20. Support the engine and install the engine-to-transmission bolts. Torque the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
21. Connect the oil cooler lines and detent cable.
22. Slide the transmission support forward.
23. Position a transmission jack under the transmission and raise it slightly.
24. Install the transmission support-to-transmission mount bolt and transmission support-to-frame bolts, and any insulators (if used).
25. On gasoline engine vehicles, connect the catalytic converter support bracket.
26. Install the flywheel cover.
27. Connect all electrical leads to the transmission and any clips that hold these leads to the transmission case.
28. Connect the shift linkage at the transmission.
29. Connect the speedometer cable at the transmission.
30. Check to see if all under vehicle components and fasteners are properly installed and torqued.
31. Lower the vehicle safely.
32. Install the transmission oil dipstick, and the bolt holding the dipstick tube if it is accessible.
33. Connect the detent cable at its upper end.
34. Connect the negative battery cable. Recheck all procedures for completion of repair. Close the hood and remove the protectors on the fenders.
35. Install the air cleaner assembly. Refill the transmission with fluid as outlined in the "Oil Pan'' section in this chapter.
36. Start the vehicle and check operation.

if runs a short time it's exhausting pressure normal if runs along time exhaust solenoid / height sensor or relay

to stay in close loop o2 sensor have to be hot and the converter catalyst is the one who keep the heat......converter is it factory or never been change.with scanner obd1 you should see the voltage variation of o2 sensor. it should go from lean to rich . .500mv is the middle then under .500mv is lean and over it is rich.......with this information ecm correct the fuel deliveryhope it helps

First check the brake fluid. If low, add to the full mark and check for leaks- fluid should never normally need adding. If the brake reservoir was dry, you will have to bleed all four brakes. If the fluid is not low, then probably the brake master cylinder has gone bad. The internal seals can give out and won't make pressure.

Helllo there
Symptom: Gray or blue smoke from the exhaust. You notice gray smoke coming from the exhaust when you start your car. The smoke may or may not disappear after the car is warmed. If it is, it is less noticeable. The smoke may have a bluish tint to it. Possible causes:

1. The engine's piston rings may be worn.
   The Fix: Replace piston rings. (Generally not a DIY job)
2. The engine's valve seals may be worn.
   The Fix: Replace valve seals. (Generally not a DIY job)
3. Damaged or worn valve guides.
   The Fix: Replace valve guides. (Not a DIY job)

Symptom: Engine uses more oil than normal, and there is some smoke from the exhaust. The oil level is low between oil changes. It appears that the oil is being burned by the engine because of the smoke in the exhaust. You may or may not notice the engine doesn't have the same power as it used to.
Possible causes:

1. The PCV system is not working properly.
   The Fix: Replace PCV valve.
2. The engine may have mechanical problems.
   The Fix: Check compression to determine engine condition.
3. The engine's piston rings may be worn.
   The Fix: Replace piston rings. (Generally not a DIY job)
4. The engine's valve seals may be worn.
   The Fix: Replace valve seals. (Generally not a DIY job)

Do you mean when you put it in drive the car does nothing, if that is what you mean to say then you only have one thing wrong that causes this, the transmission has failed (this assumes the fluid is not really low)

there is a arrow printed on the fuel filter, this arrow means the direction of the fuel flow, the fuel filter should be installed with the arrow facing towards the engine.

Ignition modual under plugs could be the cause

The bearings are bad you need to replace

I use a wire a little bigger than a clothes hanger wire , with a hook on the end . Insert through the top of door and pull the lock lever up.

The heater core on your Park Avenue is under the dash on the passenger side. There are some covers that you will need to remove to access the heater core. I would invest in a service manual for the car these things can be hectic to get out. you can pickup A manual at your local parts store for around 20$ well worth the $

ARE YOU SURE THIS IS THE PROBLEM. Is the heater core leaking if so you would smell antifreeze inside your car the windows would fog on the inside and you would probably have a puddle of antifreeze on the passenger floor board. If its not leaking have the system flushed out
it could be clogged up
My first guess is that the thermostat is sticking open not allowing the coolant to get warm enough to produce much heat id have this checked first cheaper repair and easier to do, also check the antifreeze level, low level could cause this to. hope this helps

Its hard to say really it could be a number of things.

From my experience, id almost always go tot he power antenna first. This things always break stick bind etc and when they do they cause a nasty battery drain.

It should be located on the fuel rail.