20 Most Recent 1989 Buick Century Questions & Answers

Question edited for clarity 'year make model' first please. Question moved to model category. You are certainly getting your moneys worth today. :>D Up to Question 3. It sounds like you need an auto electrician but try disconnecting the injectors one at a time from my last answer. Repair and Service Guides https://www.google.com/search?q=1989+Buick+Century+service+manual https://www.google.com/search?q=mobile+auto+electrician+near+me ..

Various ideas in the link. https://www.google.com/search?q=1989+Buick+Century+Limited+3.3L.+Car+Crank+No+Start Try disconnecting injectors one at a time and try to start.

Yes is it perfect Group 75 is the size and 650 Cold Cranking Amps is middle range 550CCA to 720CCA. By default, group 75 batteries feature side battery terminals (positive to the left), but some models feature both top and side terminals, often being additionally labeled with 'DT' (Dual Terminals) letters. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/find/1989-buick-century-battery.c5476 ..

I recently tried the DIY service and repair manuals from a website and it actually helped me repair transmission problem in my jcb 3cx site-master. It would'nt move forward or reverse, engine was good both solenoids for forward and reverse worked, but still couldn't diagnose the problem. I don't have much technical knowledge but I just followed it step-wise, and now it works perfect! covers wiring, codes, diagrams, torque specs, PCV, everything got it from www.reliable-store.com

Crankshaft position sensor , ignition module , ECM etc....

Diagram you can see at http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Shows the relay, but does not give location. It is usually in the box you couldn't open. Diagram also shows you have an impact fuel pump cutoff. Do you have owner's manual? Ford has good relay diagrams in their manuals--I'm sure it will show.

Change the fuel cap. It may not be venting properly.

The firing order is 1-3-4-2

it is overheating. low on coolant/ thermostat stuck shut? see if both radiator hoses are hot.

Check voltage and ground at fuel injectors. The voltage should go hot with key on and is fuse protected. Also, check fuel injector ground, controlled by computer. The computer won't ground the fuel injector unless it see rpm signal, The signal comes from ignition module to computer. Because you said you had spark everywhere, I don't think it is the crank sensor. At the moment, I'd have to suspect ignition module. I can't rule out other possible issues? How long since a tune-up? Are there any applicable trouble codes, your obd1, so you should be able to check some codes, yourself, if there are any? Don't replace anything unless your testing points in that direction. I can only make suggestions.

have you checked for power at the horn itself and is the ground good at the horn.

I'm not sure of engine Size? Did you check the crank sensor? Any applicable trouble codes? Do you have a fuel injector pulse, engine cranking?

if you are getting fuel, you must have a spark issue...check for spark at ignition

The battery light indicates that there is a problem with the charging system. It I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

IF YOU HAVE REPLACED THE FUEL FILTER, HOW LOW SINCE YOU HAVE HAD A TUNE UP, IF ITS BEEN MORE THAT ABOUT 35000 MILES CHECK THAT FIRST, STALLING WHEN YOU PRESS THE GAS CAN ALSO BE CAUSED BY A BAD TPS, HAVE YOUR CAR SCANNED FOR CODES