20 Most Recent 1994 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight Regency - Page 7 Questions & Answers

you don't say what year, model or engine, but that is the most common reason for no start issues especially on GM's.

Hi!!
The cooling Fan Pressure Switch is located on the side of the Radiator, usually below the upper hose. It is available at AutoZone or similar auto parts store for about $20. Here is a pic. of the Switch to help you identify it.

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1. Auto inspections of the vehicle may produce results contributing towards restoration. For example, the auto technician makes the evaluation as separate arrangement from which problematic areas are ascertainable. The result findings are documented as diagnostic draft plans from which repair authorizations are achievable. At which point, diagnostic without repair requirements would least requires any further procedures. However, once the vehicles diagnostics produce result requiring expert vehicle repairs, the next sequence of procedures are initiated. First, vehicle repairs require constituent components either permanent parts or depleteable resources constituents prior to workshop initiation plans. Auto technician diagnostic plans would usually contain the damage of the vehicle. A decision to commence restoration of the faults would produce estimate drafts in parts repaired for either replacement acquirable, leasable or alternately. The next sequence includes calculations estimates in resources that would be required contributing towards entire workshop restoration process procedures.

They have a good tendency to block inside. Take it out and have it rodded out by a competent rad shop. This should only cost around 50-70 US$ and will give your rad a second live. Have at the same time installed a release valve to empty the rad next time. Another good idea is to have 2 fittings installed for a possible later installation of thermo switches. One can activate an electric fan while the other may switch an warning light.
Range Rover rads are even more vulnerable as they have a side-to-side flow while the Defenders have a upper-lower flow.
You can check the rad easily by feeling for cold spots when the engine is warm. Any difference in temperature indicates a weak spot.
There are several different sizes of interchangeable radiators with different cooling abilities. Some have an intercooler built in, others have an oil cooler. Some even have both. From the engineering point of view it's not the best idea to mix tasks. If you want to go for the maximum water cooling get an rad that only cools water. I believe early Turbo Diesels had the biggest ones but I may be wrong on this. Talk to one of the rad specialists for Land Rovers and they will surely tell you what's the best. An oil cooler for engine oil is is normally not needed but can be fitted as an aftermarket unit below the radiator. If you have an automatic box you must use an transmission oil cooler. This one can be mounted in front of the normal rad but it will block off some air and heat up the other rad- not the best idea. But you haven't much choice.
The Intercooler needed for the TDi engine is another story. The factory ones are WAY too small to reduce intake temp to good levels. If you get an aftermarket unit it will lower the air temp by up to 40 degrees Centigrade allowing for 12% more power without other modifications except adjusting mixture.
Those can only be mounted in front of the radiator but heat output on the TDi is much lower than on the V8 and generally no problem at all.
3. The thermostat An ugly little piece that hides behind the distributor and has a tendency to stick. If you suspect it junk it out. They aren't expensive and can stick in any position. You can get them in various ratings, the lowest being 74°C. But remember that an engine is more efficient the hotter it runs (but not boiling). You can even get aftermarket thermostats with a buil-in safety. It's a small metal tube that extends when the engine overheats and forces the thermostat to open and stay open. You might to have to shop around a bit to find them and they are almost double as expensive as standard units but worth every Penny. And they must be replaced once the engine overheated as the unit can't close again.
4. The ignition timing The V8's are sensible to ignition timing. If the timing is about 4-5° off you will get an overheating engine. I've set mine at 8° BTDC at 800 rpm (for an 3.5 EFI).
5. Corroded block The aluminium block is very vulnerable to corrosion if the wrong coolant is used. You MUST use coolant designed for use in aluminium engines. Corrosion can partially block the water galleys and make an insulation that prevents heat transfer. Once you have this corrosion you have a problem that can only be resolved by stripping and dismantling the engine. Corrosion can even make holes inside the cylinders, allowing the water to leak inside.
6. The cylinder head gasket. Hey, that's my favorite one. The Rover engine has a special design fault in his heads.

This is not uncommon with higher mileage engines. Use the AC Delco oil filter and a heavier grade oil to aid in compensating for wear. The heavier grade will stick around in the lifters longer. The right oil filter will aid in keeping line pressure too avoid start up knock.

Generally the blower motor is located under the glove compartment. If this is the case you have to take the unscrew the nuts that connects to the blower assembly. Once you have done this. Remove the old blower and replace with the new one.

you prob. have a wheel seal hanging up or your ebrack cable is catching on something

the thermostat is too the front of the engine,, close to the exhaust system however i dont think thats your problem.. I'm thinking a broken cylinder head gasket.. causing the radiator to pour off into the engine..

try this.. fill the radiatior with WATER,, leave cap off,, start the vehicle,, if you see water pumping back out the radiator then you have a gasket issue (cylinder head gasket).. if not,, driver around for a while with the cap off ,, if the water remains the same height then more than likely one of the radiator hoses has a micro fracture ,, this will cause the coolant to evaporate and escape in the form of steam ,, basically vanish without a trace.

let me know what happens.. maybe another expert here will have another idea.. I'll post it out in the main forum and seek assistance for you,, BTW dont post your personal info on the net like that,, its kinda dangerous..

The chattering sounds like some thing loose,like a mounting bracket. or the shafts end play is excessive,there can be bearing failure at high mileage in the supercharger, The bearings are lubed by the engine oil while running check for oil leaks in the line to the supercharger.

The usual problem here is that the Power Steering pump driveshaft seal is what fails so you have Power Steering fluid leaking out there. The easiest solution is to replace the Power Steering pump with a re-built one, but in my case I have already taken the pump off, and removed the pulley from it because my plan is to just replace the pump driveshaft seal since I know that the pump itself is fine because it worked perfectly prior to the leaking problem, and I am incredibly cheap. Because replacing only the driveshaft seal requires a higher level of skill, this may not be for the average do-it-youselfer so in that case replacing the entire pump would definitely be much easier but you'll probably still have to remove the pulley from the old pump, and then re-install it on the replacement pump.

A puller is required to remove the pulley, and a simple installation tool will put it on the new pump! This is really not that difficult if you have these tools, which can be rented for a few dollars at some large auto parts stores. A little experience is also helpful. To me, this is not really that difficult a job, but then I've been doing my own work on cars since I was about 15, which is about 30 years. Be sure to clean everything so as to remove all Power Steering fluid from all pulleys and belts, and also be sure use the appropriate new Power Steering fluid for this vehicle when filling the reservoir to the proper cold level, and do not over-tighten belts.

Hope helps.

Hi,

Could I have the model and size of the engine please.

Thanks

Jason

go to autozone or chilton romitchell on line

Hi, Congrats on owning one of the fastest production car engines in the world. The way you want to do this is - only tighten each bolt about a hand shake tight - start in the middle of the intake - tighten the one closest to you and to the center of the intake - about half or a good hand shake - tight. Then on the opposite side of the intake tighten the one directly across from you - Like the illustration above - keep going outward from the starting point - like in an oblong circle and you will be fine. Double check your torque requirements as I think 89 INCH -that's INCH pounds NOT foot pounds is all you need but - take down your vin# and call your local dealer too. He will even print out the sequence you want - for your particular vin number. Be sure to check for RECALLS while your there. Thanks for letting me serve you - please rate me 4 -- and comment good bad or indifferent. Thanks

Check all your fuses and the fuel pump relay. Your fuel pump may not be working or weak, you need 44-48PSI of fuel pressure on the 3.1 liter engine to have the fuel injectors to operate.
Once you have determined that you have fuel pressure and that your fuel system is in running order, move on to the crankshaft sensor. The crankshaft sensor sends signals to the car's ECM which will command the fuel injectors to operate at the right time for proper engine operation.
You say your getting fire so i am assuming you have your ignition system running 100% so start with checking the fuel system and then the crankshaft sensor.
Thank you for using fixya and keep me posted, be glad to help you get your car running 100% again soon.

Yes they are located in the same fuse box.

Good car you've got dear.

I need to know what all you checked that made you put a new fuel pump in and what year the vehicle is.Did you check the fuel pump fuse,pump pressure,and connections?Sometimes the connections get corroded at the rear connector by the tank.Did you check for spark at the plugs?Let me know.

It sounds like a defective temp door actuator. It is behind the glovebox. You should be able to unhook the rod from it and move it manually. Run the engine with the glove box out and move the temp control to see if the actuators move.

Hi!!

Remove motor from trunk and test it using jumper wires from the battery.

You can get a used one for $20 at the junk yard or a new one at the dealer for about $80.

There is not a fuel cut off switch.