20 Most Recent 1995 Mercedes-Benz C-Class - Page 6 Questions & Answers

The initial setting should be 24 degrees BTDC plus or minus 1 degree. The ECU does the fine tuning from there.

First start the engine and leave it in park and then check the level of transmission fluid on the dip stick (on the left at the very back of the engine). Second check the integrity of the bolts holding the differential to the rear subframe. There are only three, two to the rear of the diff. in rubber mounted bushes and one on the left front vertically into a rubber cushioned washer mounting. Third check the rubber flexible (dounut) assemblies immediately to the rear of the transmission output and in front of the differential input. The 6 bolts on each should be secure and there should be no cracks in the couplings. If they show signs of deterioration they are easy to replace.

Some where you left off a ground or didn't plug a wire connector in that goes to the engine sensors, there is really no other explanation.

Possible Mass Air Flow sensor

On the right side of the engine there is a metal cylinder with a black cap about an in in diameter. The unit also has a filter that should be replaced.

If you call the local MB dealer service department and they can tell you the recommended service intervals. They are also in the owner's manual packet. Best way to know your service requirements.

Most likely your idler pulley is freezing up.

Does the switch seem tight? If it feels loose, it is the switch. Easy replace solution. Remove the Tweeter cover on the driver's side gently. Remove the two screws that hold the A/C vent and pull out. Pull off the switch nob and remove the nut on the switch. Reach inside and turn the switch towards the door and it will come loose. Plug in the new switch and reinstall in the reverse order.There also may be a bad headlight relay.

Bad speed sensor on the trans if its an elctronic sensor if its mechanical then it would be a bad speedometer gear or broken cable. Sounds like its electronic so its a bad speed sensor parts a lil spendy but mostly its a pain in the *** to get to

There are no screws for speedometer assembly, pull the speedo meter out from right and then from left, remove holders from the back of the meter assembly, unscrew the speedometer cable, and pull the assembly as much as u can, u can access the holders for odometer (on the top), take out the holder, replace a new fish bulb and follow these steps backward, hope this will solve the problem

Head gasket has failed replaced before something gets worse. Oil in coolant is not good for cooling and at some point water can get into oil and that will cause engine failure.

First thing to do is inspect wiring harnesses in the engine bay as from early 90's to 96 all wiring had a biodegradable insulation (forced to do so by US) that breaks down over time and heat to reclaim the copper. If you inspect yours and the insulation is crumbling they must be replaced as they are shorting out. Codes mean nothing till this is checked/replaced.