20 Most Recent 1990 Mercedes-Benz 190 Questions & Answers

Could be that speedo cable has become disconnected or that the inner shaft has broken. The speed cable is connected between the back of the instrument cluster and the left side of the transmission. Check under the car that the cable is securely fitted to the side of the transmission. Disconnect it and and check on the condition of the square drive flexible shaft. The spinning of this inner shaft is what conveys the output shaft speed of the transmission to the instruments. The instrument cluster can be removed but pushing a length of coat hanger wire with right angle turn on its end between the the cluster and the dashboard surround. Turn the coat hanger to hook behind the cluster and pull forward to remove it. Try several points around the cluster. It is best to disconnect the speedo drive cable to withdraw the cluster (after electrical connections have been disconnected. check that the speedo cable is secure to the back of the instruments. If you remove the cluster completely follow the path of the speedo cable. If you have to replace the cable, tying a length of string to the speedo cable end first and posting the string down the cable path will help the re-installation enormously. Simply pull the string whilst reinstalling the instrument cluster until the end of the speedo can be got hold of. Refit the speedo cable to the transmission only after the instrument cluster is back in place.

Hello My Fixya Friend, Such things happen in winter seasons. Still if you have any doubts just visit the link I provide to you. They will guide you properly that what has happen to your car, and they will give you the solution for the same. Best Manuals

run the fault codes first and if no faults then use the code reader to reset the CPU as the program may be corrupted.

The electrics in the Mercedes are notoriously flaky. A failing alternator would cause a low voltage condition that would cause the battery to run down but would not likely damage any of the computer modules. Have you REPLACED the fuses that protect the various fuel and ignition modules? Not just visually inspected, but REPLACED them? When I ran my Mercedes 123 series cars, I replaced all the fuses on Day One, regardless of how good they looked. Bosch fuses are known to corrode and cause intermittent problems similar to yours. If a fuse is overheating or the contacts are not good, a few minutes of driving could cause a problem that imitates expensive module failure. It happened with my Mercedes and my Volvos that used Bosch fuses.

i see, we ask for help and you want to charge us for it. But if we have solved the problem, you want us to tell you how we did it. Well my time is valuable too, i figure it took me about three hours to figure out the problem and fix it, at my hourly rate of $100 an hour, yes i am a business executive that works on his own cars, it will cost you $300 for the answer.
Thanks,
Ifixumtoo

I have the same symptoms with my car. My cap and rotor, ignition wires and spark plugs are brand new - so it's not a spark problem(at least in my case - you should check the spark on yours). What I recommend is to do a fuel pressure test. There are multiple things that could go wrong with it- first, fuel pump or pumps(mine has two) are old and do not put out enough pressure in the system. Second, there could be a small leak somewhere in the system - common. Because of that, and because the k-jetronic system is fairly complicated and has a lot of parts that could go bad - this might be hard to diagnose. On Youtube you can find a detailed description of the system and its components. Also a common problem seems to be the fuel distributor or the plunger. You are going to have to remove the air filter housing and visually inspect for leaks. Also look behind the right rear tire where the fuel pump/pumps, filter and accumulator is. Even the smallest leak in the system could potentially cause the engine not to start until there is enough pressure in the fuel system. If the engine is running fine after it starts, you probably have one of the problems I mentioned above.Good luck

use an ohmmeter to check the rotor (center to tip) check the cap from inside to the plug ends with wires installed, compare to spec. check the coil wire end to end. 1kohms per foot. inspect cap well.you can see differently in sunlight and controlled light. compare to a bosch cap and rotor. use a 12v test light to check coil primary leads one should be a steady light and the other should flash (while cranking) be sure the rotor turns when cranking. get a mercedes book from the library. i like the haynes books on my 190E. read, read, read.. check fuses. look up STAR tek info on google. look at your maint. records and see if you are way behind. use standard copper plugs from bosch. unless oem was alot different. look for hoses cracked or popped off. i mean really look. mine had hoses for cruise leaking and hoses for adjustable lights that were unplugged. not even equipped, but dead end at front turn signals. weird. but spark and an audible fuel pump, a cold start injector are all key, as well as an eng coolant temp or thermotime switch. as yours may be equipped with both or either. i found an open in mine. if this is beyond you, theres books for that too at library. manifold grounds are in the front of the intake (always brown) or (earth) gotta be tight. hope you find it quick. dont keep cranking till the starter overheats. i would rather wait till i was pulling the eng. and trans than replace one in chassis!!!!

Where does the fuel leak coming from? If its coming from the new filter, then you have to redo your installation making sure the fittings are tight.

Hi Ryan,One possible cause is your fuel pump not powered up. If you have a portable tester (volt meter) check if the 2 wires of the fuel pump has 12 V accross them. If there is no voltage reading, then the relay that is switching the supply into it is probably not working and you also need to check if the relay is switched or powered when your is ignition key is at ON position. If there is a power on relay but not switching then you need to replace it (relay).I hope this helps.regards,Jeep Brainy

Sorry, but removing the entire dashboard on a Merc 190 is far too detailed and involved to go into on this site, especially as it's very time consuming to scan and upload to a website all of the photos and diagrams which you'll need. In any case, it's all copyrighted material and so would be illegal to do so.

I respectfully suggest that you get a Haynes manual; the first repair alone will more than pay for the book.