1993 Buick Riviera - Page 2 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

low compression?

Do your head lights come on? If not check your battery connections. If they do then go to the starter and check all connections there. Let me know how you do with this and let me know if thia=s helped or if you need further assistance. Thanks

You need to send the cluster to model electronics and have it repaired.

is the security light on on your dash .check for theft code ,if security light flashes your problem is your theft system .i've repaired alot of these .if you have questions call me at 270-556-7357 or [email protected]

The radio is usually tied in with the anti-thief. If it is asking for a code then you probable have to remove the radio far enough to gei the serial number off it. Call a dealership with the radio serial number and then can give you the code. If it is not asking for a code then chances are it is an electrical problem with the radio maybe a fuse.

Hi, this vehicle does have antilock, with aluminum hardware, and you could flush your brake fluid, but I can not see, even with everything replaced, paying $900, unless they were to replace all the lines, master cylinder, and perhaps other things. I feel you should get a 2nd opinion, as this sounds too high to me.Good luck...Coop

below fron of console

well this is a first but possible i suppose ?? the transponder has read the wrong chip and now it will not release the immobilisor ,so i think it may be a dealer job

go to auto zone and you can buy a haynes book for your car with the codes in the book, or buy a code scanner book.

Put fuel in it,then check the fuel pressure with a gauge. The tank unit maybe giving a false reading.

Chances are your distributor cap, it may have carbon buildup ad is acting like a jumper wire to other spark plugs or it may have a very fine crack in it with carbon buildup shorting two plugs together. It's best to have it replaced, they don't cost that much and it's easy.

Check your gas filter, chances are it's clogged and needs to be replaced.

I have a 1993 Buick LeSabre, and I have had a lot of wiring problems as well. Get this, I have replace the ECM computer, the prom chip, the climate control unit itself, and much more. However, non of these solved the problem you are having with hot and cold air settings. In my case the air would come on and surge and then die out completely. As it turned out, the switches on the dash were not to blame, but some people complain about those units going out. In my case I had to trace the wiring harness from the back of the control unit to the firewall under the hood. And there I found the answer. One of the connectors inside a clip had burnt up from overheating. I went to a junk yard and got a replacement clip and cut the old one out and carefully cut one wire at a time to make sure all the colors matched up on the splices....sure enough, I got the air to blow again without the hesitation.

In a similar but worse problem, I had a wiring clip unit go at the transmission plug in.....that caused it not to shift properly.
Splicing in a new complet wiring clip there help the cure the electronic shifting problem I was having.

So, my suggestion is to check all your wiring clips on the firewall side of the wiring harness that goes to the heater blower motor 1st, before you buy a whole new climate control unit. If the look fine, try a little electronic connection spray cleaner and clip them back together. Just make sure you understand how the clips unclip or you can break them. Most have a tab you lift up and then you can pull them apart. While others are more difficult in that they have a green pull tab which has to be pulled up to release the clip so you can pull it apart....good luck and I hope it helps

I have a 1993 Buick LeSabre, and I have had a lot of wiring problems as well. Get this, I have replace the ECM computer, the prom chip, the climate control unit itself, and much more. However, non of these solved the problem you are having with hot and cold air settings. In my case the air would come on and surge and then die out completely. As it turned out, the switches on the dash were not to blame, but some people complain about those units going out. In my case I had to trace the wiring harness from the back of the control unit to the firewall under the hood. And there I found the answer. One of the connectors inside a clip had burnt up from overheating. I went to a junk yard and got a replacement clip and cut the old one out and carefully cut one wire at a time to make sure all the colors matched up on the splices....sure enough, I got the air to blow again without the hesitation.

In a similar but worse problem, I had a wiring clip unit go at the transmission plug in.....that caused it not to shift properly.
Splicing in a new complet wiring clip there help the cure the electronic shifting problem I was having.

So, my suggestion is to check all your wiring clips on the firewall side of the wiring harness that goes to the heater blower motor 1st, before you buy a whole new climate control unit. If the look fine, try a little electronic connection spray cleaner and clip them back together. Just make sure you understand how the clips unclip or you can break them. Most have a tab you lift up and then you can pull them apart. While others are more difficult in that they have a green pull tab which has to be pulled up to release the clip so you can pull it apart....good luck and I hope it helps

No, you do not need to remove the torque axle bolt to replace the serpentine belt on your 1995 Buick Riviera Supercharged Series 1. However, you may need to use a serpentine belt tool to relieve tension on the belt before you can remove it.

Have you tried looking at EBay? I did a quick search and found this. Not sure if this is what you are looking at but certainly there would be a matching pigtail. Otherwise a junkyard (call before you go) and you can probably get one from another GM car. Full size gm chassis with the same engine

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/p0171-obd-ii-trouble-code-system-too-lean-bank-1-by-andrew-quinn All codes are OBD II. You can google them fro your answer.

If I remember correctly, it should be on the drivers inner fender in front of the left front tire under the hood. Seems like it should be hiding behind the washer bottle or the coolant reservoir.

Should be under the dash, behind left hand side of the instrument panel to left of steering column.

I would anticipate 9 quarts or liters if the torque converter is also dry. Most fluid will go in the converter with only a quart or so in the pan.