20 Most Recent 1993 Buick Riviera - Page 10 Questions & Answers

PUSH DOWM ON BILT TENTIONER AND SLIDE IT OFF

check your fuses first. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/kenneth_3efc1f8510674f04

This is very smelly oil so make sure to be prepared with some latex gloves.... You should change this oil ever 50 to 75 thousand miles. To do this you need to turn out the hex plug on the snout of the M90 eaton charger. Take a pump from a lotion bottle that is clean and dip the tube allll the way into the hole(reservoir). Now pump the fluid out into a plastic jar of some sort. There will be aprox. 6 ounces of fluid in the snout housing. Refill with GM supercharger oil only!!

Hi, there no need to hard wire blower motor. Have you checked the blower motor resistor.If not take a test light, turn ing switch then turn on fan motor. then take test light to blower motor resistor and see if you have power there if so check your ground if good,replace blower motor resistor and your blower motor should then work. If i can help any further just re post.
Thanks dodge tec

you have a fault in the abs system which is preventing the traction system to operate the most likly cause is a faulty wheel speed sensor you just have to get someone to pull codes out of abs and it will most likely tell you which one it is.

Sounds like a camshaft or crankshaft position sensor problem. They can be intermittant and cause the car to just shut down and not leave an error code in the computer.
Most are relatively inexpensive and easy to change, but I'd have a mechanic check it out as not to fix something that isn't broken and be wasting money

153624 is the most common

try hemmingsmotornews.com for old nailhead Bui\ck engine parts
the choke does have a name which is carburetor heated manifold choke

For Buick/Olds 80-84. Should be same.

Do you know what the year make and model is on this trying to determine which cylinder is in the vehicle? Best option would be to have a key cut by the dealer but if that is not an option there are a few ways around it but not really advisable.

As an ex dealer tech we use to hate that design. All of us ended up purchasing a stud removal tool that would take it out without any thread damage and it made into a fairly easy job.In your case after you have loosened up everything you can pull it out enough to get behind the bracket with some vice grips and get out that way,and where your gripping the stud it does not mater if you damage the threads some. I know this is not a lot of help I wish I could redesign it or loan you my stud extractor. Don't forget your floor jack and block under the oil pan to raise the engine to help get out the mount!!!

check your Bottom of your Hood or top the Fan

yes if you get the wiring harness

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Sounds like either a short in the wires somewhere, or a bad ground wire that is wiggling and sometimes making contact, sometimes not. If you're mechanically inclined, pull the panel and follow the wires behind it. Make sure none of the insulation has cracked off and is grounding positive wires to metal. Also check the ground wire(s) to make sure they are securely grounded and not loose where they mount.

This is a diagram of the dashpanel, as soon as I get my scanner working I'll send you some more descriptive pics and removal instruccions