20 Most Recent 1992 Buick Century - Page 5 Questions & Answers

shounds like it could be a fuelpump

Not on that old of a car, Transmission is slipping, Does the transmission fluid look darker then usaul, Or smell burn,t, If it is real dark in coulor or smells burn,t, End has never been changed in that old of a car,Transmission need to be (Rebuilt)

Hello.

The ECM is mounted on the right side of the dash above where the passengers feet would be.
The lower panel will need to be removed to see it.
Here is the service manual procedure to remove it.

1. Turn ignition to "OFF".
2. Disconnect battery ground cable.
3. Remove right hand hush panel.
4. Disconnect connectors from the ECM
5. Remove ECM mounting hardware.
6. Remove ECM from the passenger compartment.
7. Remove ECM access cover.
8. Transfer PROM unit to replacement ECM. Using two fingers, push both retaining clips back away from the PROM. At the same time, grasp it at both ends and lift it up out of the socket. Do not remove the cover of the PROM. Use of unapproved PROM removal methods may cause damage to the PROM or socket.
9. Remove new ECM from its packaging and check the service number to make sure it is the same as the defective ECM.
10. Remove access cover.

There you are. I hope your repair goes well.

KL

put a wire direct to fan from battery to make sure its not working as some times relays go and the fan wont kick in if it doesent work when connected to battery motor in fan is goosed hope this helps ivan

duplicate question

The engine temp sensor sends a signal to the computer to tell it what the coolant temp is. The computer grounds the radiator fan when the temp reaches 220 degrees.The sensor has two wires and is on the cyl head or the intake depending on which engine you have.

If the brake pedal goes hard right BEFORE the car dies, and not after, then you could have a problem INSIDE the brake power booster. try to verify this next time it dies at a stop, if you can safely pull the dead car off the road into a driveway (or try to make it stall in a bumpy parking lot) - then before you try to restart the car, open the hood, pull off the rubber hose where it's plugged into the brake power booster --> you SHOULD hear a big "Swoosh" of air being sucked into the booster because there's supposed to be a strong vacuum there even after the car stops running. if you get nothing there, your car is dying of an excessive vacuum leak through the brake booster.= bad booster.

Should be on the firewall - there are 4 or 5 relays in a row.

This is a common problem.
After many hours of internet research, I stumbled upon the only repair suggestion that sounded reasonable to me.
I performed the repair and it was successful.
I now have odometer and prnd321 lights.
There are four small resistors on the upper right section of the instrument cluster circuit board (just to the left of the tripmeter reset).
The solder connections of these resistors become corroded over time. Three fell to floor when I ran my finger over them.
I replaced the four resistors with 1/2 Watt 150 ohm resistors (soldering skills are required).

Replace the flasher, it is under the dash on the drivers side. It is combination flasher, both 4 ways and turns.

Flasher more than likely

replace ignition coil

It would be right hand- regular threads.

there is a EGR/ vacuum line routing sticker under the hood. Look on that for your gap. if not here it is .045 for the 4 cyl 2.2 engine .060 for the V6 2.8L, 3.1L, or 3.3L.