20 Most Recent 2003 Oldsmobile Silhouette - Page 8 Questions & Answers

corrosion on the fuel sender connections difficult job to access if you can access clean them of and put a light smear of batter grease to prevent re-occurance

The fuel filter is located by the fuel tank. it is located near the fuel tank and requires you to unbolt it. The Fuel pump in an Oldsmobile Silhouette is located in a plastic cylindrical module that also houses the fuel level sending unit. The module is located within the fuel tank and locked into place with the use of a lock ring. The lock ring has tabs that interlock with tabs on the fuel tank. There are a series of hoses and electrical connections on the top of the tank that you'll need to remove as the tank is lowered. Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Sounds like time for a new starter. While it could be electrical, in that the starter circuit is remaining engaged, more than likely it is mechanical. As the starter wears, you get play in the starter gear. Replacing the starter should take care of it. If you have recently had the starter off or replaced it, it could be misaligned, causing a similar problem.

I believe it takes a 3/8" hex socket for the slide pins. You will either a "C" clamp or the tool to push in disc brake pads. Most auto parts stores will loan tools like that so you do not have to purchase it. No other tricks. If you still would like step by step as well as diagrams, e mail me at [email protected] If you feel comfortable enough after this, go for it. Let me know.

Ground from sending unit to frame could be corroded.

Hi! Car is not running right thats for sure. Please try this... Replace automatic transmission fluid for the fluid may be burnt causing stress to the transmission which can cause fuel inefficiency. Once the atf is replaced, a smooth drive and shifting will be noticeable which results to better fuel efficiency. Hope this helps and have a good one.

Hi!!

Drain fuel tank and change the fuel filter and spark plugs, if problem persists, have fuel pump pressure tested.

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check to see if all doors are closed tightly including rear hatch

mcdevito75 here, The drain hose is located just under the evaporator under the glove box. From under the hood follow the metal lines of your A/C going thru the firewall, these lines attach to the evaporator. It"s a tight fit but look under your dash around the glove box.

If you have a 4X4, remove the wheel, remove the caliper and bracket assembly and pull the rotor off. It might be rusted on to the bearing hub, if so use a block of wood and a hammer to break it loose.

Remove wheel.Unbolt the caliper from its bracket (two bolts) and move aside. Then unbolt the the bracket that holds the caliper (two more bolts) and remove. The rotors should slide off the lugs at this point. There may be a retainer clip on one lug to hold the rotor on. Just pry the clip off. You may ruin this clip, but it's not necessary to replace it .

If you are replacing the pads at this time you will want to remove the caliper from the caliper bracket before removing the bracket from the steering knuckle.

this is a very common symptom when the fuel pump is about to fail. You need to get it diagnosed which most likely means leaving with a shop for a couple days so they can experience the problem and do testing

change the oil and filter

They should kick in at 218 to 220 degrees,but then they should go off by them selves ,make sure there is no air in the cooling system,and maybe change the coolant sensor,and thermostat,if this problem persist,the radiator would most likely be the problem,if the cooling fans are coming on,it is important they cut off on there own also,this means the engine(radiator)are cooling down,if the cooling fans do not cut off,there is still another problem

Please have a dealership that handles GM vehicles check to see if your vehicle was involved in what the trade considers a run away transmission condition involving the automatic transmissions parking pall linkage defecting thus allowing the transmission to go into drive while the vehicle is idling in park.

well assuming these are P codes
P0128 = engine coolant temp
P1189 = engine oil pressure

who pulled your codes?
you will get the P0128 if the vehicle is not warmed up prior to scanning and the P1189 if the key is on but the engine is off

obviously, no brake or awd relationship to your concern


can you get the vehicle scanned again by someone else who has the ability to retrieve all codes including B codes and C codes

Sounds like something is binding. If you have full voltage on the fan and you can't find the source of what is binding, you will have to replace it.

Only way to get an answer is to get it diagnaosed. There is nothing you can do at home.
There is no way for us to give an answer without first looking at all the sensor data and seeing if any codes are stored. .