20 Most Recent 1996 Oldsmobile Aurora - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Check your oil dip stick and see if it is milky looking if it is you have a blown head gasket and the water is leaking out of the cooling system into the oil and your overheating because your runing out of water

will try to help. if the pulley has wobble,it's bad and in need of replacement. not a hard repair to preform. turn the bolt on the idler pulley thats bad counter clockwise,remove the bolt and pulley. replace with new pulley. you'll need to follow the belt routing on the hood of your car[a small decal that shows how to replace your serpentine belt] to replace the belt when you've replaced that pulley. if you do not have a diagram of your belt routing, make sure to ask where ever you purchase the idler pulley from. if not then post your question here and we'll be happy to help! i also suggest that while you're there replacing that pulley, you check all the other pulleys for wobble,just in case theres another problem you don't yet see. hope this helps and if you need further assistance please don't hesitate to post your question!thank you for choosing fixya.com

IF YOU USE THE OLD ONE, YOU ARE ASKING FOR TROUBLE WITH AIR LEAKS.PLEASE USE NEW.....

Sounds like head gasket issues, possibly even a warped head.

Could be a timing chain issue

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Because serpentine belts use a spring loaded tensioner for adjustment, belt replacement tends to be somewhat easier than it used to be on engines where accessories were pivoted and bolted in place for tension adjustment. Basically, all belt replacement involves is to pivot the tensioner to loosen the belt, then slide the belt off of the pulleys. The two most important points are to pay CLOSE attention to the proper belt routing (since serpentine belts tend to be "snaked'' all different ways through the pulleys) and to be sure the V-ribs are properly seated in all the pulleys. Although belt routing diagrams have been included in this section, the first places you should check for proper belt routing are the labels in your engine compartment. These should include a belt routing diagram which may reflect changes made during a production run.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable for safety. This will help assure that no one mistakenly cranks the engine over with your hands between the pulleys, and that the cooling fan cannot activate while servicing the belt(s). NOTE: Take a good look at the installed belt and make a note of the routing. Before removing the belt, be sure the routing matches that of the belt routing label or one of the diagrams in this book. If for some reason a diagram does not match (you may not have the original engine or it may have been modified), carefully note the changes on a piece of paper.
   
2. For tensioners equipped with a 1?2 in. (13mm) square hole, insert the drive end of a large breaker bar into the hole. Use the breaker bar to pivot the tensioner away from the drive belt. For tensioners not equipped with this hole, use the proper-sized socket and breaker bar (or a large handled wrench) on the tensioner idler pulley center bolt to pivot the tensioner away from the belt. This will loosen the belt sufficiently so it can be pulled off of one or more of the pulleys. It is usually easiest to carefully pull the belt out from under the tensioner pulley itself.
3. Once the belt is off one of the pulleys, gently pivot the tensioner back into position. DO NOT allow the tensioner to snap back, as this could damage the tensioner's internal parts.
4. Now finish removing the belt from the other pulleys and remove it from the engine. To install:
   
5. While referring to the proper routing diagram (which you identified earlier), begin to route the belt over the pulleys, leaving whichever pulley you first released it from for last.
6. Once the belt is mostly in place, carefully pivot the tensioner and position the belt over the final pulley. As you begin to allow the tensioner back into contact with the belt, run your hand around the pulleys and be sure the belt is properly seated in the ribs. If not, release the tension and seat the belt.
7. Once the belt is installed, take another look at all the pulleys to double check your installation.
8. Connect the negative battery cable, then start and run the engine to check belt operation.
9. Once the engine has reached normal operating temperature, turn the ignition OFF and check that the belt tensioner arrow is within the proper adjustment.

Pretty good chance that most cars will run the battery down with no use over 6 months.
Put a battery charger on it first - and leave it on for a good amount of time.

it is located on the ouside of the transmission case

IF YOU HAVE THE 4.0 ENGINE ROD BROKE PART OF WATER PUMP.YOU HAVE TO REPLACE WATER PUMP.YOU NEED TOOL J - 38816 TO REPLACE INSTALL AND REMOVE WATER PUMP.YOU CAN BUY TOOL AT ANY AUTO PARTS STORE.TORQUE FORWATER PUMP IS 73 FT LBS. TORQUE FOR WATER PUMP DRIVE BELT COVER IS 89 INCH POUNDS.

if you have the aurora 1996 4.0 like mine u r fuckd my friend you have to take all ur engien apart. not recomended for the back yard mechanic unless you got time tools and r resdy for a challange

Hi, i would check the thermostat first unless the water pump is leaking as the water pump is where the timing belt is is the timing belt needs removing to get to the pump, take the thermostat out and place it in a tub of boiling water and check if it opens up if it dont then it will need replacing.

you need to bare in mind that it could also be head gasket failure so make sure you get this tested if the thermostat is found to be in working order.

let me know if you need further assistance ok

IF CAR OVERHEATING AT STANDSTILL OR IDLING IN A LONG TRAFFIC LINE.COOLANT FAN NOT TURNING ON.MORE LIKELY COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR NOT WORKING.USE A SCANNER TO CHECK COOLANT TEMPERATURE WHEN ENGINE HOT.IF TEMPERATURE READ LOW COOLANT TEMP.SENSOR BAD.IF SENSOR OKAY.CHECK COOLANT FAN FUSE AND RELAY.ALSO HOTWIRE FAN TO SEE IF FAN MOTOR WORKING.IF NO REPLACE FAN MOTOR.IF FAN MOTOR GOOD FUSE AND RELAY COOLANT FAN MOTOR WIRE CONNECTOR IS DAMAGED OR HAS BROKEN WIRE.

Hope helps.

1996 Oldsmobile Aurora 4.0 liter DOHC V-8 VIN "C"




Hope thi helps (remember rated and comment this).

1996 Oldsmobile Aurora 4.0 liter DOHC V-8 VIN "C"




Hope helps (remember rated and comment this).

northstar engine the starter is under the intake manifold, better get a manual

That service engine soon light is the same thing as a check engine light. You need to get the codes read so you can fix the problem. when a critical sensor quits working the engine will either stay or revert back to closed loop mode which is the mode it uses when cold. So it uses a lot more fuel just like it does when cold. The codes stored by the computer should say which sensor has malfunctioned.

so the only other options are a clogged fuel injector. Possibly a faulty ignition module, or a intake gasket leak. Or even low compression or a burnt valve. All these things can be tested for with the proper tools. Cheaper than just throwing parts at this.

You add the freon into the aluminum line with the black cap on it closest to the belt system.That is where the evaporator and compressor are.Remove the cap.If you try the wrong side it will not hurt the system,it just will not accept the freon.With the engine running and the a/c on,add the freon at one quarter can intervals and check the a/c.When it is cold enough stop.Overpressurizing the system can cause damage $$$.Good luck! Greg