Top 20 1995 Oldsmobile Aurora - Page 9 Questions & Answers

The problem is that the heater core has started to leak. The 'water' on the passenger side floor is actually coolant that is leaking from the heater core (hence the low coolant light).

body control module is bad

There is an intake and exhaust manifold on these cars. Which one do you mean?

The intake is connected to the air duct and the throttle body.
The exhaust is connected to the head, but is generally lower than the intake manifold and may be made of iron.

Could be the fuel pump relay staying on, it should turn off when turn off the key, sometimes the Tech will jump the system to drain the fuel out and may have installed the relay incorrectly.

Hello vickianddanb: My name is Roger and I will help with your question.When you start the engine cold,the oil is thick and heavy. as the oil is warmed up by the running of the engine it gets thinner. I would suggest having the oil pressure tested. You could just have a bad oil sensor or you could have some bad bearings. The oil pressure test would show the bad bearings. Should the oil pressure drop below 7 to 10 psi. you have serious bearing problem. Should the pressure be higher the oil sensor would be the problem. I would not delay to long to have this done. Should you need further help please just ask. Please rate the answer. Thank You for using Fix Ya. Roger

check the relay for the fuel pump.ref to your hand book.should be easy to locate.

Under the back seat.

a simple check would be to replace the distributor cap. Often there will be hairline cracks that can't be seen and will cause no trouble until it's wet outside.

Hello,

the problem is from the "slow". The slow wire may have remove, that's why the car goes dead.

Open the bonnet, check the injector, you should find a wire going out from the injector to a capacitor or something, that's the slow wire. Fix it back/connect it back, and problem should be solved.

Good luck.

do a tranny service that should fix it

Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6235876-no_heat_fan_blowing_cold_air . These are generic instructions. If you get stuck or need specific instructions for your car, please get back to me with model, year and engine info.

1. Change the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) SENSOR.
2. Check & replace if necessary the engine thermostat and water pump.
3. Flush & bleed correctly the cooling system, and test the car.
4. If the problem is still present, check & replace if necessary the cooling radiator.

OK, so did you check the fluid and top it off? If the fluid level is low, it may be time for brake service.

If the engine temperature is correct, then I would suggest the heater core is partially blocked and needs to be replaced.

Driver's side of engine in the back.Look near the water tank towards the engine block.

I did a 2001 and it wasn't too bad. You need a special tool to remove the pump from the water jacket. I just rented it from Autozone for free.
Don't let is go too long. I let mine go until the bearing froze up. Then it damaged the belt and pully running off the cam. Cost me another 200.00 in parts.

fuel filter in need of a change perhaps?..cheap enough to change to eliminate it as a possibility

If the third brake light works than I would bet that the turn signal switch is bad.

Try this. With the brake pedal depressed try wiggle the turn signal lever and pushing/pulling on the four way flasher button. If the brake lights come on at any point while doing this than the switch is definitely bad. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Most common reasons. Needs a tune up-spark plugs /wires/filter. Poor quality or low fuel grade, you should be using the 89 Octane not the 87 or the fuel is contaminated with something. Transmission being low on fluid will cause this to happen as the transmission has to work harder to shift when it is low that means more RPMS, More RPMS means More fuel less mileage. Incorrect tire pressure. You have the defroster running. For some reason most manufacturers in the 1990's started having the AC compressor engage when you select defrost. Only use Defrost when you absolutely have to or disconnect the AC Compressor control wires in the engine compartment.

normally if you have a problem in the negative cable it is an open caused by corrosion. it bolts to the chassis so a short to chassis ground is what it is supposed to be. Buy a new cable and unbolt the chassis end and the battery end of the old one, put the new one in the reverse of taking the old one out. It really helps in the long run if you coat the connections with some spray sealant which you can buy at a parts store. I find the positive cable is just as susceptible, if not more so, to corrosion so while you are in there, do it to. Good solid connections will help in the cold. While you may be able to find a generic negative cable at a parts store the positive cable may be a dealer item as it usually has more than one lead coming off the battery end.