Top 20 1995 Oldsmobile Aurora - Page 4 Questions & Answers

What you try to do ,buy or switch.

drive shaft end couplings ,ignore till they start crunching in the straight ahead position ,No doubt the rubber covers are split of missing so strip the end off the shaft and put the end on a small bucket of diesel the tap the round ring down on one end so the ball bearing bearing comes out and repeat this till all 6 are out ,now twist the inner part so the arms are between to holes in the cage ,then turn this till it comes out now give it all a good clean and refit in reverse procedure ,but of grease in the bottom through the hole that the drive shaft goes into fit the new rubber boot over the drive shaft and the refit the coupling fit but more grease under the rubber ,refit the boot and job done .Its a easy job to do -MESSYAND MUCKY yes but a relativly simple job

The fuse should be in the fuse block in the engine compartment, Ther e is a relay all so that could be defective,, As for the coolent there is no release (Vavle ) for it,

If the engine cranks but won't start, the battery and starter are out of the picture.When it won't start, someone will need to check fuel pressure and for spark at the plugs to proceed.

Change the egr valve i just did it on my 1995 and it idles at 1000 rpm it was at 3000 at 1st
And clean out throttle body
If that doesnt work u most likely have a stuck throttle which usual doesnt happen

It can be a C-V joint or other suspension part. The reason for the brief sound is the slack in the joint until it jams into position. Jams being the keyword here. There are bearings and rollers in the joint. When they disentergrate, there is space. The bearing rollers pile up and JAM together so the C-V shaft turns. It can only work like this for a limited time, then come apart.Another possibility is a strut joint or balljoint. The weight shifts under acceleration and the part rocks in the loose fitting. It seizes into a driveable position, but only for a limited number of times under it lets loose.As you stated, "Like it is pulling itself apart" is pretty accurate for what is happening in the C-V joint.

che ck for the fuse or relay may be its blown it could also be the wipers motor not working

The code P056 means "HO2S Heater Control Circuit(Bank 2 Sensor 2)hope it can help you!________________x-vci for ford

could be tcc clynoid

Have the battery load tested, it sure sounds like you have a defective battery.

There are YouTube videos on making repairs to GM tilt columns.You have to remove the steering wheel to access the pivot joint and bolts. It takes a puller tool to get the wheel off and you have to disarm the air bag system.

check flasher,fuse,bulbs shoted,and indicator lever...........

Its either t

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• COOLING FAN SWITCH
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Cooling Fan Switch ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ Inspect/Test/Replace

To find the RADIATOR COOLING FAN MOTOR RELAY, we need additional information about your 1995 Oldsmobile Aurora 4.0L SFI DOHC 8cyl. Please select one of the following:

• Number one
• Number three
• Number two

The Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay is located: Under hood, passenger side, upper firewall, mounted in corner in relay block When testing a cooling fan switch, first test it with the engine cold, then test it when the engine reaches a specified temperature. Check your vehicle's service manual for more directions. To check a switch, disconnect the connector at the switch. with an ohmmeter, check for continuity between the terminals of the switch with the switch moved to the on position and to the off position.

To find the RADIATOR COOLING FAN MOTOR RELAY, we need additional information about your 1995 Oldsmobile Aurora 4.0L SFI DOHC 8cyl. Please select one of the following:

• Number one
• Number three
• Number two

The Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay is located: Under hood, passenger side, front side of wheelwell, mounted in relay panel The continuity through a switch can be checked with an ohmmeter. With the switch open, there should be infinite resistance. With the switch closed, there should be zero resistance. With the switch off, there should be no continuity between the terminals. With the switch on, there should be good continuity between the terminals. If the switch is activated by something mechanical and doesn't complete the circuit when it should, check the adjustment of the switch. (Some switches are not adjustable.) If the adjustment is correct, replace the switch. Another way to check a switch is to simply bypass it with a jumper wire. If the component works when the switch is jumped, a bad switch is indicated. Voltage drop across switches should also be checked. Ideally, when the switch is closed there should be no voltage drop. Any voltage drop indicates resistance and the switch should be replaced.he fan motor,the fan switch,or the coolant temp.sensor.

could be a bad torque converter in the trans. if it drops out of lock up it will cause higher rpms will driving on the highway

is it the lights of the gauges dont light up or the gauges dont work period? if they dont light up then check the bulbs that are behind the gauge cluster and they could be burnt out i have the flickering prob with my ac hvac controls and half the lights on my gauges dont light up due to bulbs being burnt out i just havent spent the money to get some blue leds to put in there

mass airflow sensor(MAF), is located in the airway between the throttle body and the air filter of an engine.i suggest you to clean the sensor from all dirt to make the sensor accurate air flow readings.

It could be the antitheft shutting down your vehicle. This link explains. Something to look for.http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/

most likely need to replace the coolant temp sensor. sensor is located on the driver side on the head closest to the firewall.

right by the air filterhttp://imagehost.auroraclubna.com/images/mapsensor.jpgist number 1 i think XD

The security light is a visual indication that something in the car's antitheft system is failing. In most GM cars and trucks there is a hidden system that most people are unaware even exists. From the moment you put your key in the ignition, there begins a constant line of communication between your key's security chip or transponder, to the ignition's lock cylinder, and then to the car's TDM. (Theft Deterrent Module) The TDM is what tells your computer that the correct key is being used and that it is "OK" to allow the vehicle to start and run. These 3 parts must be in CONSTANT communication. If the key is in the ignition, then these parts are sending important signals to each other. The security light illuminates when that signal gets broken, even just for a second. When the signal breaks, (normally due to a failing/broken part) the car goes into antitheft mode. The car misinterperates this and thinks its being stolen or hotwired because it is NOT getting that signal from YOUR specific key. There is where the security light turns on and shuts down your vehicle. So basically, if that light is on, your system has some sort of failing part. This can start as an intermittent "no start", to your vehicle not running for days at a time, to the vehicle NEVER starting again. The problem is electrical and computer based, so don't count on an easy reset button, or the problem fixing itself. The hard part is isolating which part is the problem. You can spend a thousand dollars through a mechanic very easily. I have had great luck with bypassing the entire system. This way the problem will never return. It actually CAN'T ever return because it is eliminated. This can also be done yourself at a much cheaper cost. Read through this link very carefully. You'll find alot of information and pictures, along with ways to help you fix this.http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/