20 Most Recent 1995 Oldsmobile Aurora - Page 9 Questions & Answers

The fault lies in the wiring (complete electric circuit) which is leaking and getting the battery discharged. Alternator is only to charge the battery when the engine is running.

1995 Oldsmobile... | Answered on Aug 11, 2011

Brake Pads wear,caliper pistons extend out
further & the fluid follows & level goes down

Been that way for 100 years

So you haven't been checking the level

1995 Oldsmobile... | Answered on Aug 06, 2011

I'm afraid you have a dilema my man!
Your A/C system is computer controlled. The switch that you are "crossing" is not actually a switch like way back in the old days. It is a pressure SENSOR, which provides a signal to the computer. The computer is the one who decides if the clutch is going to turn on or not. The only way to figure this out is to retrive fault codes from your climate control system and diagnose accordingly.

The only way to display diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) is by using a TECH 1. There are no provisions for "ON-BOARD" diagnostics.

NOTE: Most after market scan tools will NOT access these codes. Follow the proper instructions, located in the owners manual, for the specific scan tool being used.

1995 Oldsmobile... | Answered on Aug 05, 2011

Oil pressure is generally not related to oil level unless the oil level is low.
Oil pressure is created by a pump and as the engine parts wear over time, the oil passes through them easier causing oil pressure to drop.
It is also possible that the loss of pressure is caused by an oil pump that has worn, but don't get your hopes up.
If the vehicle has a lot of mileage, has been driven hard, has not had the oil changed regularly, this occurs.
It is sometimes possible to put additives in your car that are "thicker" than oil and this will give you some time to decide what to do.

1995 Oldsmobile... | Answered on Jul 21, 2011

most auto parts stores will loan axle socket kits that has like 5 different sizes

1995 Oldsmobile... | Answered on Jul 16, 2011

Clean the part of the caliper and mounting bracket were they slide together and were the pads slide/mount.. also make sure the rubber hose and brake line is not crimped or twisted to stop fluid from going back to master cly. the flexible rubber brake probably has an internal wall break. pressure applied causes a fluid bubble inside the wall that effectively closes the line and not allow all the relief fluid to pass thus the caliper has some residal clamping power left and causes sticking and hot brakes. check your pads for glazing and stress cracks also when it's apart. Also make sure the piston boot on the caliper isn't torn. ------- If the brake hose was ever mishandled, it could be damaged inside. The brake hose is two layers of rubber hose with braiding between them. If it is damaged internally, a flap of rubber could be acting like a check valve. ----
When you push on the brake pedal, brake fluid goes to the caliper. But when you let go of the pedal, the broken loose flap of rubber blocks the flow of fluid back up to the brake master cylinder so the caliper sticks.--------------

you must thoroughly clean the steel-to-steel mating surfaces when installing new calipers and/or brake pads. The axle, the caliper, the rotor and bearings all align nicely so to give you a nice and smooth braking motion. If there is even so much as a tiny pebble between the caliper and where it mounts or a brake pad and where it mates up to the caliper, then something is not aligned properly. It is important to clean these mating surfaces thoroughly. You can take a wire brush and make the mating surfaces shine and it helps fix the problem. ---------- It may also be a loose or misadjusted wheel bearing. I have seen that before, when you have the vehicle raised try grabing the top and bottom of the tire and see if there is any play top to bottom.--------- ---------- Other possibility can be proportioning valve? The master cylinder feeds one line to it but each front brake has its own line from the valve to the caliper.------- --------- as you mentioned the calipers are replaced in your case, i suggest recheck the calipers alignment, clean the inside surface and including that also get the pads and rotors replaced.Also inspect that brake line is clear and brake fluid is running to the brake caliper.--------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

1995 Oldsmobile... | Answered on Jul 14, 2011

I have the same year car and what happened is the drivers door the wires bend where they enter the car from door and they break. I have fixed four wires in mine so far

1995 Oldsmobile... | Answered on Jun 26, 2011

Have you checked your ignition relay? Also check the ground for proper grounding. If the ground is not correct then you will not start. You can also try running extra ground wire from the starter to the frame of the vehicle sometimes that will also cure the issue. I would check the fuse and relay first before anything else though.

1995 Oldsmobile... | Answered on Jun 17, 2011

You may be having AC problems but that is not what happened when the Steering locked unless the AC is on the same belt as the Power steering unit. That whining you are hearing when you turn is actually the power steering unit being low on fluid or the power steering pump going out. Based on what you have described my guess is that the unit has gone out and needs to be replaced. As far as the AC compressor is concerned, if the unit is low on Freon it will not engage once it gets too low unless the clutch goes out. When you look at the center of the AC compressor when the engine is running and the AC is off you should see the pulley free spinning and the very center of the pulley won't be spinning, that is the clutch Dis-engaged. When you turn the AC on the Clutch should engage and allow the compressor to work. You will hear it kick in and kick out repeatedly if it is low on Freon. If it is too low it will never kick in because the low pressure switch won't allow it.

1995 Oldsmobile... | Answered on Jun 16, 2011


1995 Oldsmobile... | Answered on Jun 16, 2011

FUEL SENDING UNIT there is an access hole under the carpet in the back right corner of the trunk. access this compartment and have someone else turn the key but not all the way to start the engine to check if the unit is operational it is easy to tell because you will hear it. humming you will probably need to replace it- here and here are detail instructions on replacing a pump similar to yours.
Best of luck

1995 Oldsmobile... | Answered on May 31, 2011

It may be a bad radiator cap or the top radiator hose is loose or worn out. Water may be coming out as steam which is difficult to trace. If you have white smoke at the back or check your engine oil for water content, your head gasket may have gone bad. If you have coolant mix that at 50/50 ratio into the radiator. It is colored green or pink and should be easier to trace to make sure the leaks are not in the other parts of the cooling system. It could be on the other hose, radiator or the engine.

1995 Oldsmobile... | Answered on May 29, 2011

something in the "always on" circuitry is drawing too much current. find the fuse for the power door locks and remove it and see if that helps. power door locks seem to go bad and cause this in a lot of GM products. if that does not do it, then you are going to have to pull the fuses one by one and leave it sit overnight until you find the magic fuse. when you find that it starts, something on that circuit is bad, and you are going to have to live without it or pay to get it fixed.

1995 Oldsmobile... | Answered on May 12, 2011

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